Yaris Sedan Deadening and Sound system upgrade

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Which speakers are you going to get, Herb?

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Which speakers are you going to get, Herb?

Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!

I was in the same position you are before getting into all this, and this is what I was going to do:

Front speakers: Pioneer 6.5 ($40) LINK
Rear speakers: any 6x9 (>$40) LINK

2 cts I hope it helps I really don't know about the 2 or 4 ohms

you could still add an amp or a small amplified sub later, this would be a good improvement.

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Not to take this thread off topic, honestly, I haven't decided yet...still researching. Since I'm keeping the stock head unit, I want to find a good match without doing all the electronic upgrades that Derick has so very nicely diagrammed in earlier posts.

So a question here that I either missed the answer to or haven't seen it - for the stock HU, should I go with speakers that are 2 or 4 ohms? At this time I am not planning on installing any kind of amp. Yes, I know I won't enjoy the full capabilities of new speakers without an amp, but I've got to keep an eye on the $$$'s. Perhaps I can add a small amp later.

Thanks!

the ohm load of the speakers should actually be about the last thing you should be worrying about. A 4ohm speaker is generally more efficient than a 2ohm speaker, so, the additional power that a 2ohm speaker usually doesn't make much of a difference.
I've ran 4ohm & 8ohm speakers before.... you won't here an audible difference between them... its all the other specs that will make an audible difference.

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

the ohm load of the speakers should actually be about the last thing you should be worrying about. A 4ohm speaker is generally more efficient than a 2ohm speaker, so, the additional power that a 2ohm speaker usually doesn't make much of a difference.
I've ran 4ohm & 8ohm speakers before.... you won't here an audible difference between them... its all the other specs that will make an audible difference.

Thanks! I wasn't sure if the 2 vs 4 made a difference as far a power requirements from the HU as I know zip about the stocker in my car.

Lookin' good Derick! You're gonna turn into a walking zombie with all those late nights! I hear you about the family, especially with a youngster demanding your attention. So...when are you to to "mod" the play structure? Stereo? Fridge? Ceiling fan? Lounge?

[derickveliz2]

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I just met my worst night mare!!!........FRONT RIGHT DOOR TRIM PANEL!!!




I can't believe it, it was so hard... I know the extra layers of CCF and MLV was too much and I knew I was going to trim them to make it fit; I put on and off that panel maybe a couple dozen times, maybe more!!!, I spent all my hour of lunch trying and trying... at the end I was successful. Also had to take away the little foam on the upper part, and cut all the way down the big one.

Looks like there are main points in the panel that go agains the inner door and felt like little bumps deflecting the panel making it impossible to put back in place.

I hope this helps me plan the drives side door better.

I'm exhausted

I was so lucky my boss came back from vacations and he brought 2 pizzas for us!

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[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

Thanks! I wasn't sure if the 2 vs 4 made a difference as far a power requirements from the HU as I know zip about the stocker in my car.

Lookin' good Derick! You're gonna turn into a walking zombie with all those late nights! I hear you about the family, especially with a youngster demanding your attention. So...when are you to to "mod" the play structure? Stereo? Fridge? Ceiling fan? Lounge?

OHHHHH... crap.... I totally read your entire post... and somehow glazed over when you said STOCK DECK.... if you plan on running the speakers off the deck's internal amplifier, then I would stay away from the 2ohm speakers. I thought you were going to power the speakers off an external amplifier (i'm blond, don't crucify me).

the 2ohm load on a deck will cause it to run very hot, and possibly blow fuses. There are a lot of electronics that give off heat in a deck even before you consider the amplifier. I have a deck that doesn't even have an internal amp, it only has a 2amp fuse, and the front of it gets warm.... now compare that to a deck which will have around a 10amp fuse.

Usually when people talk about running a 2ohm speaker, it's because they want to get every last watt of power out of their external amplifiers.

[swidd]

I was quoted $700 for a floor, door, rear trunk and rear speaker area sound deadening job with dynamat, from a pro installer shop. It wouldve required me to get a rental car while they would keep the car for two days.

Doing it myself with b-quiet abd some cheap carpet and old clothes ~ $220. The real savings will result from not having to buy a new car to be satisfied.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by swidd

I was quoted $700 for a floor, door, rear trunk and rear speaker area sound deadening job with dynamat, from a pro installer shop. It wouldve required me to get a rental car while they would keep the car for two days.

Doing it myself with b-quiet abd some cheap carpet and old clothes ~ $220. The real savings will result from not having to buy a new car to be satisfied.

I like doing it my self, I do it with lots of precautions, love and care to my car. I don't even let anybody else change the oil. I'm afraid that they won't do it carefully and won't do it with PASSION! like I do.

And if I had to do it all over again, I Would!

Besides a layer of dynamat it's not going to be enough to get good results. I'm going to tell you a little secret I did. I experimented with the right front wheel well and applied 2 layers of Mat and went for a ride, not much of an improvement, then I installed the MLV with CCF and the difference was significant better. I understand the going for SPL the extra layers of Mat help, and at some point starts working as a sound barrier.
It's like when we do schools with Gyms next to libraries, Classrooms and Auditoriums, in the specs we show absorbent materials and sound barriers.

Any way it doesn't matter how we do it, there are too many factors and opinions and I respect everybody's point of view but the most important is that we are having fun with our cars and sharing, comparing and enjoying what all this is about. "YarisWorld"


D.
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[sqcomp]

indeed it is a learning process! I'm "stressing" on the special clips that are holding the C-pillars and my sun visors on...

[derickveliz2]

Last night (3.5 hours of work, went to bed at 3 am) dam I should start working on my car earlier, but my son and wife are first!

I cut out the OEM speaker and install my new speaker, it fits perfect and the Blue LED looks so cool!







Then I cut the MLV to fit the Trim panel...





Here you can see how the trim panel looks like; I cut/shape/sand the 2 peaces of Foam that protrude inside the door alouding the MLV to fit with the trim panel,...





In this picture I'm using velcro to hold the MLV in place and finish passing all the wire through, I also put some 1/4" CCF between the MLV and Door (not shown in picture)





I drove to work like this, and I was surprised that I was hearing a bunch of NEW noises (this is good) that means I'm killing noise that was bothering me so much coming from the door, I haven't seal the door yet, a layer of 1/4" CCF goes between the MLV and trim panel to complete a sandwich that will work as noise barrier, speaker box, anti rattling, and even insulation.

One tip, I didn't do it when cutting the MLV make sure you get the natural curve to the opposite side it shows in my install so the MLV tends to curb on the end towards the door and not away from the door. It should help mounting the door panel.

Thank you,

D.

[derickveliz2]

I can't work on my car tonight, I have to do real work.


The only thing I could say is that my ride back home was very pleasant, the door feels very solid and quiet, now I should keep working on the floor and mid section.


Zzzzzzzzzzzzz good night.

D.

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[sqcomp]

Derick...

I just read the post above about trimming the foam in the panel. Yeah...Nothing one can't handle though. I killed all the factory spacer foam myself. It was easier to do that way.

[derickveliz2]

Originally Posted by sqcomp

Derick...

I just read the post above about trimming the foam in the panel. Yeah...Nothing one can't handle though. I killed all the factory spacer foam myself. It was easier to do that way.

That is going to be the first thing I do on the passenger's door.


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[derickveliz2]

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Today on my way to work, something really nice happen...



I call my brother to say "Hi", 15 seconds after... He says...

"I can hear hear you very well, your phone sounds very clear! did you get a new phone? Where are you?"

I said... No! I didn't get a new phone, and I'm driving on the highway at 75mph.

So my project is WORKING, I never had a nice conversation over the phone in my car when cruising over 60mph, I had to rise my voice a lot on the phone so the other end could hear me, this is very

SATISFACTORY!




D.

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[derickveliz2]

Working on the center channel, and the pillar that holds the passengers seatbelt, lost of engine and transmission noise coming from the center channel, some how I'm trying to add MLV across and some CCF under, I also notice that in some areas the floor gets really HOT! wonder if I should use some reinforced MLV (I got some of this to apply under the hood and on the other side of the fire wall) to reduce heat transmission inside the cabin from the exhaust? Bad in summer but good in winter...
PS... I ordered lugnuts (in Black) for my new wheels.
More soon.

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D.
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[derickveliz2]

Working late, again... but this time on my car... yes last night I had that Bug to get things done, not that I finished but I did finish the floor on the passangers side, it's hard with the MLV where floor meets walls and corners; also wanted to get plenty of CCF and MLV going up under the center console and all the way back to the arm rest. I do have a confession... I was to lazy to remove the OEM deadening material, so I end up putting more Matt under the seat covering all this area.

I had to do in in sections, MLV doesn't likes to be bend in 2 directions, and follow by a slow process with the glue trying to set up and making sure that I was going to be able to put everything back together. I don't want to have another bad experience like the one with the right front door.

I'll post images later, but as of todays ride... it's getting better and better, this is very satisfactory for me and gives me a happy face and all the strength to keep going.

When hitting a bump I could feel the bump but barely hear it (towards the passengers side. I remember when I read long time ago that the Yaris has a noisy engine at high RPMs "NOT any more".

The DashMat works really nice , it was raining last night and the noise coming from the drops of water(rain) [a very annoying peak noise] hitting the windshield at 75 mph blends in a quiet lower frequency level, same for wind noise, The DashMat it's not pretty but acoustically works very well.

I'm having a second thought about the doors, since I can't get a full coverage of the door with MLV I'm going to order more Mat and go back inside the door and apply a couple of layers to compensate.

photos soon...

[derickveliz2]

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Here is the OEM deadening material that I didn't wanted to remove
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a little bit more Mat over the OEM deadening material
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1/4 CCF in place -The carpet tells a story that I found helpfull, it actually comes reinforced in some sections with foam and other materials that tells you where are the noisy areas in our cars.
I wish I had a picture, I'll try to take one for the pilot's side.-
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Applying MLV and gluing horizontal and vertical elements
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Carpet back in place -
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Center console back in place making sure it fits and I see I can add more Foam and Vinyl inside going over the other side, covering about 95% with MLV, This is going to be good.
I kind of hate to hear the transmission as I shift gears. I also made a couple of 6"x8" rectangles of MLV covered with 1/8 CCF on both sides and slide them under the bracket of the stick and gear mechanism.
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This is the DashMat, I didn't installed, I just lay it down so it can break in and match the shape of the dashboard.
I had to show this photo in black & white the DashMat shows as a soft Purple color in every shot. LOL
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Lunch time!!! I'll see if I can get more Mat and CCF under plastic panels.

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