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#1 | |
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Quote:
I bought the TB off of m911gt who was selling it because of the same issue. I did the chip swap on it so that rules out a bad chip. Fucking with the idle screw is the only thing I have yet to do because I don't see why that would cause anything other than a too high/too low idle. Plus after I installed it I drove to work and back (50 mile round trip) and it ran flawlessly other than hanging to RPMs a little bit but it sure as hell wasnt oscillating. Also this entire time I have yet to actually get a check engine light You would tend to think with the motor ranging from 1-3/4k rpm it would throw a code. I think my ECU is just being a stuck up whore
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#2 |
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pink wheels are cool
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my CEL is now off and looks like its staying off
it hasnt popped back on yet, im feeling lucky but i havent had any issues with stuck throttle or anything like that |
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#3 |
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Also Gideon did yours oscillate right off the start? Did it come and go? Or was it just oscillation constant for first 100 miles and then it went away? How hard did you drive it for thos efirst 100?
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#4 |
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★weeaboo★
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Yeah, it oscillated every time I let the engine go back to idle initially and it was for only 20 miles or so. In that 20 miles I ran it to redline every chance I could. (After the engine was properly warmed up of course)
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#5 | |
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Quote:
Also was it really jerky every time you applied/let off the gas? Like on the freeway I hit the gas but it steadily accelerates so I have to let off and every time I take my foot off/put it back on the gass it jerks like a motherfucker.
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#6 |
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★weeaboo★
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Yeah it was pretty jerky initially.
It still is really jerky if the engine is cold, but once it warms up it ceases. |
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#7 |
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#8 |
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Possibly you guys running with CELs are in open loop vs closed loop and that's why you aren't getting oscillation
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#9 |
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okay so the idle screw was all the way in and I backed it up as far as I could. Let the car idle for about 10 minutes and slowly the idle smoothed out completely
While driving I am still getting some jerkyness and moderate oscillation (1-2k) at stop lights but nowhere near as bad as it was. It seems the ECU is actually trying to learn the new throttle body now instead of just being a whore about it. Hopefully it will smoothe itself out some more as I drive it more.
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#10 |
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toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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hope that fixes ur issue..
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#11 |
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#12 |
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Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL
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#13 |
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that must mean its working!
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#14 |
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toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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#15 |
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What code is the CEL associated with?
Also, for the people that are still having problems with the swap: Are you guys using the stock Yaris gasket (the black O-ring with the "tail" and the partial mesh screen) with the 1ZZ TB? If not...you should use at least the "tail" portion. The slot that the "tail" fits in on the intake manifold offers a totally open channel through which air will get in and cause idle speed "hunting" and CEL's. The channel is large enough to suck in any partially set gasket maker and give you problems such as rough idle and CEL's. When I did the install I cut off the "tail" from the gasket and installed it in the channel in the intake manifold with gasket maker. Once set, the "tail" creates a nice solid plug for that channel, and I haven't had a single CEL since I made the chip swap....not ONE! |
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#16 |
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toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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wow no oscillation and no cel ...
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#17 |
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#18 |
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HacKers WanTed!
Drives: Yaris S HB & Yaris S SD Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Villalba, Puerto Rico
Posts: 435
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After 12 pages I feel I should do this....
__________________
R-CaT Project Yar 2ZR |
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