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Old 05-11-2009, 12:03 AM   #1
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Maybe you have a bad TB or the idle screw was messed with too much? (I didn't bother touching mine.)

I never did the chip swap on mine (too lazy). Coolant bypass (didn't bother to bleed it) and only have high idle when cold and of course my CEL is always on. (For about 700 miles now)

Mine does stick a bit it seems, RPMs hang for a few when slowing quickly to a stop (usually to go over speedbumps).

No oscillation, except when I first installed it. That was fun trying to avoid looking like a douchebag revving at every light. (For the 100 miles I had that issue I would just put the car into gear quickly to bring the car's RPMs down to normal and then release.)

I bought the TB off of m911gt who was selling it because of the same issue. I did the chip swap on it so that rules out a bad chip. Fucking with the idle screw is the only thing I have yet to do because I don't see why that would cause anything other than a too high/too low idle. Plus after I installed it I drove to work and back (50 mile round trip) and it ran flawlessly other than hanging to RPMs a little bit but it sure as hell wasnt oscillating. Also this entire time I have yet to actually get a check engine light You would tend to think with the motor ranging from 1-3/4k rpm it would throw a code. I think my ECU is just being a stuck up whore
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:37 PM   #2
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my CEL is now off and looks like its staying off

it hasnt popped back on yet, im feeling lucky

but i havent had any issues with stuck throttle or anything like that
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:05 AM   #3
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Also Gideon did yours oscillate right off the start? Did it come and go? Or was it just oscillation constant for first 100 miles and then it went away? How hard did you drive it for thos efirst 100?
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:29 AM   #4
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Also Gideon did yours oscillate right off the start? Did it come and go? Or was it just oscillation constant for first 100 miles and then it went away? How hard did you drive it for thos efirst 100?
Yeah, it oscillated every time I let the engine go back to idle initially and it was for only 20 miles or so. In that 20 miles I ran it to redline every chance I could. (After the engine was properly warmed up of course)
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:36 AM   #5
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Yeah, it oscillated every time I let the engine go back to idle initially and it was for only 20 miles or so. In that 20 miles I ran it to redline every chance I could. (After the engine was properly warmed up of course)
So I need to start driving like a ricer Also was it really jerky every time you applied/let off the gas? Like on the freeway I hit the gas but it steadily accelerates so I have to let off and every time I take my foot off/put it back on the gass it jerks like a motherfucker.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:56 AM   #6
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Yeah it was pretty jerky initially.

It still is really jerky if the engine is cold, but once it warms up it ceases.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:29 AM   #7
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Yeah it was pretty jerky initially.

It still is really jerky if the engine is cold, but once it warms up it ceases.
Mine keeps getting worse and worse. Jerky as fuck even when the sngine is warm and the oscillation is progressively getting worse.
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:07 AM   #8
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Possibly you guys running with CELs are in open loop vs closed loop and that's why you aren't getting oscillation
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Old 05-11-2009, 04:53 PM   #9
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okay so the idle screw was all the way in and I backed it up as far as I could. Let the car idle for about 10 minutes and slowly the idle smoothed out completely While driving I am still getting some jerkyness and moderate oscillation (1-2k) at stop lights but nowhere near as bad as it was. It seems the ECU is actually trying to learn the new throttle body now instead of just being a whore about it. Hopefully it will smoothe itself out some more as I drive it more.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:59 PM   #10
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hope that fixes ur issue..
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:06 PM   #11
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hope that fixes ur issue..
Oh believe me so do I Hell I can even live with how it is now it's just that pegging from 1-4k nasty oscillation was horrible. The car was almost undrivable
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:36 AM   #12
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Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:06 AM   #13
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Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL
that must mean its working!
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:17 AM   #14
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Yay my motor is finally running half decent and I got a CEL
nice.. so ur saying it idles the same as stock and no oscillations.. what about start up how high does it warm up to..

no wwe jsut need to kill the cel ..
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:00 PM   #15
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What code is the CEL associated with?

Also, for the people that are still having problems with the swap:

Are you guys using the stock Yaris gasket (the black O-ring with the "tail" and the partial mesh screen) with the 1ZZ TB?

If not...you should use at least the "tail" portion. The slot that the "tail" fits in on the intake manifold offers a totally open channel through which air will get in and cause idle speed "hunting" and CEL's. The channel is large enough to suck in any partially set gasket maker and give you problems such as rough idle and CEL's.

When I did the install I cut off the "tail" from the gasket and installed it in the channel in the intake manifold with gasket maker. Once set, the "tail" creates a nice solid plug for that channel, and I haven't had a single CEL since I made the chip swap....not ONE!
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:55 AM   #16
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wow no oscillation and no cel ...
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Old 05-14-2009, 01:34 AM   #17
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wow no oscillation and no cel ...
Yep...read post #78 in this thread!
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:15 PM   #18
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