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Old 11-02-2018, 03:52 PM   #1
alweasel
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris
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I am now at 175 and going. Hoping to make it to 300,000.
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Old 11-02-2018, 07:05 PM   #2
billfires
 
Drives: 2010 3dr LB
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140,000 miles on 2010 2 dr manual hatchback. Synthetic 5000 mi oil and filter changes, air filter, cabin filter, tires, battery and plugs, serpentine belt and front brakes & rotors. just done. Funny thing is I work 2 days/week and live 1.25 miles from work. average between 36 and 42 mpg. Bill C
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:44 PM   #3
TiedBassDrummer
 
Drives: 08 Yaris 3dr
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Bought my Yaris last year with just over 70k miles on it. Currently at 83k miles.
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Old 11-06-2018, 04:55 PM   #4
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83<100
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Old 02-10-2020, 01:11 AM   #5
mark293
 
Drives: 2007 THREE DOOR 5 SPEED
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: HOUSTON
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Just made 250k. Drives just like it did when I bought new. People don’t believe me when I tell them I’ve only replaced the brake pads one time since I’ve owned it. I’m torn between my Yaris and my 2007 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor as to which one is the greatest car ever built.
Gotta love it.
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Old 02-11-2020, 04:30 PM   #6
bentjazz
 
Drives: 2009 Yaris--3dr MT
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Good job, mark293! Hoping to drive my Yaris another 20 or so years. I'm at about 105,000 miles.
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:18 PM   #7
myfirstyota
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What's 366,000km worth? That's where my lift-mobile is at
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Old 03-02-2020, 10:52 AM   #8
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My paint has done the same, but it happened very much all of a sudden.
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Old 03-09-2020, 11:41 AM   #9
lawrenze04
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At 143000 miles on 2012 Yaris Sedan. Dealership recommends me to replace the throttle body and flush the brake lines. What are your thoughts? Also they said that I have a timing cover leakage, which when I dont see any obvious leak. Anyone with the same experience?
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Old 03-13-2020, 08:31 PM   #10
zoidberg444
 
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Originally Posted by lawrenze04 View Post
At 143000 miles on 2012 Yaris Sedan. Dealership recommends me to replace the throttle body and flush the brake lines. What are your thoughts? Also they said that I have a timing cover leakage, which when I dont see any obvious leak. Anyone with the same experience?
I've only heard of one instance of the throttle body going bad on a Yaris and if one did fail it would be better to get a used one from a scrapyard. No sense in paying for a new one.

I change my brake fluid and flush my lines every 2 years/40,000 miles. You definitely notice a change in the colour of the fluid as you flush the new stuff through. Brake fluid absorbs moisture so it can cause corrosion in your brake system.

I think they are having you on with "timing cover leakage" the timing covers are siliconed on at the factory. They are a bitch to get off and very unlikely to be leaking. You could have your front main seal leaking at the camshaft - that you should probably get fixed if it was the front main seal. Or you could have a coolant leak from the water pump. Mine leaks a little but i'm just keeping an eye on it at the moment because its just a drip. I just top up a few drops of coolant when i service the car.
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Old 08-26-2020, 01:22 PM   #11
lorne
 
Drives: 2007 1.3L AWD (auto) Vitz 5 dr
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Location: Sendai, Miyagi, Japan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrenze04 View Post
At 143000 miles on 2012 Yaris Sedan. Dealership recommends me to replace the throttle body and flush the brake lines. What are your thoughts? Also they said that I have a timing cover leakage, which when I dont see any obvious leak. Anyone with the same experience?
CLEANING THROTTLE BODIES
In my humble experience, any crud on the throttle body can be cured with a spray bottle chemical. I've watched a licensed mechanic here in Japan pull the air-box conduit, and then spray the daylights out of the throttle body while reving the engine on the under-hood linkage. It cleared up the rough idle and stalling, and the vehicle was good to go until it went to automotive heaven! This is a pretty normal thing! There is a SPECIFIC chemical spray for this application!! I see this stuff in the wholesale, pro-tool and supplies shop I go to here in Japan.

FLUSHING BRAKE LINES
This should be a standard part of maintenance. In Japan, it's done every two years as common practice! DOT-3 brake fluid is hydroscopic.This means it absorbs moisture. The hydraulic system has to vent, and thus it is open to atmosphere. It eventually collects H2O in your fluid. Water will settle in your brake lines and in your hydraulic brake cylinders and callipers. I think you are really pushing your luck at 143,000 miles / 230,000 Kms!

Believe me — I've overhauled enough calliper bores, and either honed-out brake cylinders for new pistons and seals, or replaced them to know how they can rust and be ruined by contaminated brake fluid. You can work out the comparative cost of regularly flushing brake fluid as opposed to brake hydraulics overhauls. And I hate to think what might happen in the modern, pressure equalizer blocks — I never had to deal with those back in the days.

In Japan, the seasonal high humidity can be intense (not unlike many states in the USA). Here in Japan, as a matter of common policy, we flush brake fluid ever two years as part of the preparation for the mandatory licensing inspection. My wife and I ran a Honda for 23 years. We had one brake cylinder bore go bad in the 21st year. And not because of rust. The piston seal was weak. (Of course we replaced both cylinders.) The fluid had been flushed every two years, and the front callipers never needed service except for fresh pads.

If you are using DOT-4, it has a higher boiling point, but it is even MORE hydroscopic. So even more caution is advised. It must be great for track days, but I won't use it in my everyday transport.

And in case it has escaped you, water in the brake fluid detracts from stopping power.

TIMING COVER
As for the timing cover — I dunno, but if it means what I think it means, if there is no oil weeping around it, I cannot see the reason for servicing it with a new gasket or sealant. Perhaps the dealer knows that the gasket/seal does begin to weep or leak at about the milage your car has gone. Hell — leave it until it does leak and just keep an eye on it when you do your regular check on the dipstick.

(FWIW: I'm not a licensed mechanic, but years ago I serviced, repaired and overhauled stuff on motorcycles, cars and trucks for part of my living.)
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Old 03-09-2020, 11:54 AM   #12
91mustang
 
Drives: Charcoal 2012 Yaris SE 5 Speed
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Definitely wouldn’t see a reason to replace the throttle body. Brake fluid can get moisture in it, but if you don’t have issues with the car stopping I would decline that also.

It’s possible you could have a water pump failing, but I wouldn’t trust a dealer that said to replace a throttle body. I’ve personally never seen one fail on any car.
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Old 03-13-2020, 03:14 AM   #13
mirapatec
 
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Drives: 2012 Yaris L, 2020 Yaris LE HB
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Location: Georgia, U.S.A.
Posts: 211
I am at 99,800 miles on my 2012, so I am fast approaching membership in this exclusive club. Do we get tee shirts or something? ;-)
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Old 05-10-2020, 11:37 AM   #14
ae101
 
Drives: NCP91L
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Hi, I'm a new member here. Been a lurker for quite a while since I acquired my new to me 2008 NCP91L. I bought this car 6 months ago with 146+++kms on it. Now it has 150+++ kms on it. This site is very helpful. So far I had some works done. Oil was changed, engine air filter replaced, cabin filter replaced, sparkplugs replaced, headlight bulbs replaced, serpentine belt replaced, brakes cleaned, pcv valve cleaned. This car is very easy to work with. Mostly I do it myself. Only thing so far that I needed a shop to do it for me is muffler replacement and donut gaskets replacement as the old one had a hole from rust and it was very noisy especially when doing uphill. Maybe I can do the replacement myself but at that time the temp here is consistently on -9 to -20C so crawling under the car is not the best option and I don't have a heated garage. I'm also planning to change the ATF but I don't know yet what ATF to use. To those who changed their ATF, what type and brand of fluid did you use? I am surprised how clean the engine was when I got it. what I mean with clean is no trace of oil leaks, and the engine is quiet. So far I haven't notice any oil consumption. hopefully it stays this way even after 250k.
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Old 05-15-2020, 11:01 PM   #15
HighmileYaris
 
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Drives: 2009 Yaris S
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Location: California
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Both of my Yaris have been well over 100k when I bought them... My 08 was 262k when I sold it, my new 09 Yaris S has 162k on it.
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Old 08-17-2020, 02:37 PM   #16
ECHOKnight2000
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Originally Posted by HighmileYaris View Post
Both of my Yaris have been well over 100k when I bought them... My 08 was 262k when I sold it, my new 09 Yaris S has 162k on it.
oh nice! I have an 09. I just turned over 182k. Running fine considering I'm guessing the previous owners didn't take care of the car too well but it makes due! Somewhat loaded. Power everything (from what it has to offer). While I think the 3 door has a cleaner look the 5 door has served me well! Curious. How is your mileage? Mine isn't bad but it's not great either IMO, I get it's not a hybrid but still should get better. It's around low 30s consistently and I try to be good with driving if I can, and it's summer. My standards are high for sub compacts. Granted not all were created equally.
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:21 PM   #17
rmshort
 
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3dr
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Location: Amarillo, Texas
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231,000 miles today. 07 Yaris 3dr
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Old 05-28-2020, 07:23 PM   #18
billfires
 
Drives: 2010 3dr LB
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168,000 miles on my 2010 manual trans, 3 door hatchback. Had donut gasket and resonator replaced at 128,000, spark plugs, serpentine belt and front brakes/rotors done at 141,000. Full synthetic 5w-30 oil and filter every 5000 miles. Also changed the battery at 7 years because I did not want to push it and have it fail at an inopportune time. By far the best, lowest maintenance vehicle I have ever owned. Bill C
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