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Old 02-28-2010, 01:51 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems?

Is this your first compression test on it???
It was checked the compression after we opened it to check all things right and found loosing. The problem should have been solved by then but it seems that it isn't infact.

I am thinking of making a 2NZFE block conversion to match the 1NZFE rods. Since the 2 blocks have the same bore size of 75mm, what issues (if there are) I could face doing this? Is there something I need to know before I get into it or else is it possible to make it without much complications?
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Old 02-28-2010, 06:06 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
aw, so sorry to hear this. Do you think the motor came to you with these problems?
Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.
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Old 03-03-2010, 04:30 AM   #3
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Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.
I am not saying that the engine was defective when sold.

When the engine arrived, it was opened and checked that all parts match the details. After assembling a compression test was made and marked loosing. The mech said they solved it and I continued to finally tune in. When we noticed having several idle and slow running problems we checked again to be sure and found loosing again.

I think there is a funny thing around and someone fu**ed me from behind on this
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #4
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A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test. A compression test only tells you the compression psi in the cylinder chamber but it does not telling you if the piston rings or valves are sealing correctly. BTW how much vacuum was you boost guage reading at idle?
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:28 PM   #5
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A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test. A compression test only tells you the compression psi in the cylinder chamber but it does not telling you if the piston rings or valves are sealing correctly. BTW how much vacuum was you boost guage reading at idle?
Vacuum was -20 if I remember correctly.

Tell me more about this leak down test
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:00 PM   #6
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Here is a good article:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

My car is @ -22 so -20 is not that different. You low compression issue could be one of the following problems:
Piston ring end gap wrong
Piston to cylinder wall clearance wrong
Valve to valve seat problem
Crack or broken ring lands
These are just a few that I can list. Im not saying it has to be one of these, but its a possibility.
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Old 03-03-2010, 04:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by cdydjded View Post
Here is a good article:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ter/index.html

My car is @ -22 so -20 is not that different. You low compression issue could be one of the following problems:
Piston ring end gap wrong
Piston to cylinder wall clearance wrong
Valve to valve seat problem
Crack or broken ring lands
These are just a few that I can list. Im not saying it has to be one of these, but its a possibility.
Nice test I didn't know about it since now. Interesting tool ... what brand do you recommend?
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:07 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Parmas View Post
Nice test I didn't know about it since now. Interesting tool ... what brand do you recommend?
I dont have a specific prefrence, here are a few:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ell=1&oi=spell
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:10 PM   #9
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If you have a compression tester, you can easily tell if it's the rings or the valves which are causing the problem. Run the compression test as you would normally and take note of the reading.
Then remove the compression tester fitting and drop a teaspoon of oil (any normal mineral oil will do, castor oil, motor oil, doesn't really matter as long as it is thin (ie. not gearbox oil)) down the spark plug hole and then repeat the compression test. The oil you put down the combustion chamber helps the rings to seal better. If the reading is the same as before the oil was added, then the problem is in the head (valves, valve guides etc). If the reading is dramatically better than without the oil, then you look towards your pistons and rings for the problem.
If the reading is only slightly better than before you added the oil, but still low compared to the other pistons, then you possibly have a bent rod.
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test.
Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.
Yes they are both proper test & the compression test is done before the leak down. But the compression test cannot pinpoint the problem like the leakdown can. A compression test tells you about your engine's ability to generate cylinder pressure, and a leak down test tells you about it's ability to hold pressure. Another way to think of it is that with a compression test you are seeing how much pressure the engine creates, and with a leak-down test you are seeing how much pressure it loses. So if while doing the leak down you have air blowing out the exhaust you have an exhaust valve issue, out the intake you have intake valve issue & out the pan is a ring problem.
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:42 PM   #12
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Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.
What was the compression in each cylinder, and was this information given to Parmas? (in which case, Parmas you can post the information).
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:46 PM   #13
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The problem is probably a valve because if it was a piston ring the breather will show a considerable amount of oil coming out.

Finally the good news is that the authorities confirmed that there is no expense to change the engine (an amount that was thought to be near $2000). So now with these money I am going to fix the compression problem, port & polish head, lighten flywheel?, new seals and maybe a block guard.

Is there a brand that makes sales of a block guard for our 1NZ? Do you have for sale garm?
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Old 03-30-2010, 01:33 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Parmas View Post
The problem is probably a valve because if it was a piston ring the breather will show a considerable amount of oil coming out.

Finally the good news is that the authorities confirmed that there is no expense to change the engine (an amount that was thought to be near $2000). So now with these money I am going to fix the compression problem, port & polish head, lighten flywheel?, new seals and maybe a block guard.

Is there a brand that makes sales of a block guard for our 1NZ? Do you have for sale garm?
If valves get moved around on assembly, it will give you problems. Valves have to go back to the original location.
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:15 AM   #15
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If the motor is sleeved properly there is absolutely no need for a block guard on our motor.

If you are going to drag race, don't get a light flywheel. For other types of driving or racing it's a good modification.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:29 AM   #16
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I am making an estimate of all things I need...... I wish anyone who can help to post some useful info.

The tuner gave me this estimate of parts to replace\upgrade:
Parts marked are thought to be left out

- Toyota OE Overall Gasket Set
- Toyota OE Crank shaft Bearings Kit
- Toyota OE Trust Bearings
- Toyota OE Timing chain kit ?

- Arias Rings Set - Where to buy? Prices ?
- Block Guard Custom made ? What about sleeves? Cost? Need new pistons?
- Steel Head Studs - Thinking of AJUSA or ARP. Where To buy?
- Knife edge crankshaft ?
- Full bottom end Balancing
- Flywheel Lightening + faces ?
- Head Porting - There are different stages, can anyone explain in detail?
- Cometic MLS Head Gasket - Does AJUSA have better head gaskets?

If I am missing something please post reply...
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Old 03-29-2010, 02:31 PM   #17
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I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:26 PM   #18
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I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.
Head studs are the same it came with the engine which are probably stock ones.

I read the post 257 but I don't know where I can find for our 1NZ. Also what kind of issues I might get into if using the same pistons?

Garm I would appreciate any comments on the other parts mentioned aswell. Which in your opinion I might need or not...
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