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Old 03-03-2010, 05:41 PM   #253
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A proper test that would have determined the condition of this engine is not a compression test, its a leak down test.
Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:42 PM   #254
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Garm... and can assure you and Parma, that the motor had excellect compression when we sold it.
What was the compression in each cylinder, and was this information given to Parmas? (in which case, Parmas you can post the information).
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:05 PM   #255
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Read Rob's post, a compression test can tell you a lot, and IS one "proper" test for the condition of an engine. A leak-down test is also a proper test.
Yes they are both proper test & the compression test is done before the leak down. But the compression test cannot pinpoint the problem like the leakdown can. A compression test tells you about your engine's ability to generate cylinder pressure, and a leak down test tells you about it's ability to hold pressure. Another way to think of it is that with a compression test you are seeing how much pressure the engine creates, and with a leak-down test you are seeing how much pressure it loses. So if while doing the leak down you have air blowing out the exhaust you have an exhaust valve issue, out the intake you have intake valve issue & out the pan is a ring problem.
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:46 PM   #256
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The problem is probably a valve because if it was a piston ring the breather will show a considerable amount of oil coming out.

Finally the good news is that the authorities confirmed that there is no expense to change the engine (an amount that was thought to be near $2000). So now with these money I am going to fix the compression problem, port & polish head, lighten flywheel?, new seals and maybe a block guard.

Is there a brand that makes sales of a block guard for our 1NZ? Do you have for sale garm?
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:15 AM   #257
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If the motor is sleeved properly there is absolutely no need for a block guard on our motor.

If you are going to drag race, don't get a light flywheel. For other types of driving or racing it's a good modification.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:29 AM   #258
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I am making an estimate of all things I need...... I wish anyone who can help to post some useful info.

The tuner gave me this estimate of parts to replace\upgrade:
Parts marked are thought to be left out

- Toyota OE Overall Gasket Set
- Toyota OE Crank shaft Bearings Kit
- Toyota OE Trust Bearings
- Toyota OE Timing chain kit ?

- Arias Rings Set - Where to buy? Prices ?
- Block Guard Custom made ? What about sleeves? Cost? Need new pistons?
- Steel Head Studs - Thinking of AJUSA or ARP. Where To buy?
- Knife edge crankshaft ?
- Full bottom end Balancing
- Flywheel Lightening + faces ?
- Head Porting - There are different stages, can anyone explain in detail?
- Cometic MLS Head Gasket - Does AJUSA have better head gaskets?

If I am missing something please post reply...
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Old 03-29-2010, 01:31 PM   #259
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I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:26 PM   #260
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I'm running a stock head gasket, no problems at all and you know my motor. What head studs are you using?

see post 257 about the block guard.
Head studs are the same it came with the engine which are probably stock ones.

I read the post 257 but I don't know where I can find for our 1NZ. Also what kind of issues I might get into if using the same pistons?

Garm I would appreciate any comments on the other parts mentioned aswell. Which in your opinion I might need or not...
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:06 PM   #261
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stock head studs are not a good idea. We had to custom make a set, but there is a company overseas making them. Can't vouch for the quality though.
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:02 AM   #262
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there is a company overseas making them. Can't vouch for the quality though.
What company are you referring to?
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:56 AM   #263
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http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...lts-yaris.html

You posted that the link doesn't work for you, but I just tried it and it came up ok.
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:33 PM   #264
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Originally Posted by Parmas View Post
The problem is probably a valve because if it was a piston ring the breather will show a considerable amount of oil coming out.

Finally the good news is that the authorities confirmed that there is no expense to change the engine (an amount that was thought to be near $2000). So now with these money I am going to fix the compression problem, port & polish head, lighten flywheel?, new seals and maybe a block guard.

Is there a brand that makes sales of a block guard for our 1NZ? Do you have for sale garm?
If valves get moved around on assembly, it will give you problems. Valves have to go back to the original location.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:58 PM   #265
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...lts-yaris.html

You posted that the link doesn't work for you, but I just tried it and it came up ok.
Still getting broken link ...

Although I got some news that AJUSA head bolts are similar to standard Bolts or else equal. I will be probably getting them custom made from DP.

What can you tell about porting? Is it worth doing it from experience? What is the average increased hp?

What about Knife edging crankshaft? What are the pros and cons of it?

What about doing upgraded sleeves? At what power they are really needed?

Come on is only Garm helping here... where are the experts
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:02 PM   #266
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:42 PM   #267
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I sleeved my Yaris block because we knew we were going for 20+ pounds of boost.
I would sleeve it if you intend to throw 15+ at yours.

Porting/polishing increases airflow. The effect and increased hp is amplified when you throw boost at it (more air trying to pass through, obviously). I would do it.

I am using stock crankshaft, and I like the results I'm getting so far.
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:11 PM   #268
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What can you tell about porting? Is it worth doing it from experience?
If you have the head apart, then you may as well do it. NA motors benefit from it more so than forced induction motors (the pressure from the turbo helps negate some of the inefficiencies in the intake).

Quote:
What is the average increased hp?
Impossible to say, it varies with each and every car and how the porting is done.

Quote:
What about Knife edging crankshaft? What are the pros and cons of it?
It reduces the reciprocal weight of the crank shaft, good for high revving motors (8000 rpm upwards). I wouldn't worry about it on your motor as you will have to fully rebalance the motor once you have done it. (Then again, if you are replacing the pistons, then you should fully rebalance the motor anyway).

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What about doing upgraded sleeves? At what power they are really needed?
I haven't heard of anyone cracking a sleeve yet? Maybe some of the Scion boys have though as they have been putting boost through these motors longer than most?
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:38 AM   #269
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Ok so porting will be one on my list.... Then what about stock valves and springs? Are they capable of 20+ boost?

I made some more research on knife edging the crankshaft. They usually make it on Honda engines but since it doesn't cost that much I would probably do it.

RE: Sleeves... My Power intensions are somewhere near 300Hp. Considering that I am using a turbo GT28 and using street pump low grade octane fuel (Below 90) the engine would need about 25psi of boost to get into that range. The tuner said, if going to do sleeves, the pistons could need to be replaced to match new sleeves... so it would cost me a fortune to make this happen!
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Old 03-31-2010, 05:07 AM   #270
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hi parmas,

im too getting my head ported as well. at the same time, i fully agree with what garm said. the more air you could flow, the better. and results will be amplified when you boost it. you should go ahead and get a "head job" :)

im also having my cams welded and grinded too, and the valve springs will be changed as well.

as for the AJUSA bolts, i could only comment that the bolts are much more heavier than the stock ones. however, heavier does not mean they are better. i can only tell you this much, and until my cylinder head is back i don't have further inputs on that.

im currently keeping my crankshaft stock though, tuner did not recommend me to have them knife edged so i did not pursue that.
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