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11-02-2010, 07:04 PM | #289 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
And let's be real here, your install went wayyyy too good regarding leaks until now lol. |
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11-04-2010, 04:51 AM | #290 |
Drives: Yaris Sedan 07 Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 11
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no prob believe me i've been through ALOOOTT i haven't even read here... just so you know i turbocharged my sedan BY MYSELF so i made ALOT of noobie mistakes like not connecting the blow-off valve to vacumm just boost but now i took out my motor and reaaallyyy build it by myself with forged internals after 2 weeks trying i cranked it up yesterday now to set the idle rpm and the break-in period and then dynoooo!!! loll
ok.. back to you... about the lil oil problem yes i bought 3 cheap turbos and they leaked a lot but it was another problem.. but doing my research, talking to ppl.. i found out a great way to eliminate that... i dont know if youll understand but it is an "oil-restrictor" have you seen a NOS jet (yes, nitrous)?? i bought a nos jet adapter 1/8 npt and bought a i think it was a 45cc jet i don really remember and that lowers the volume and oil pressure going through the turbocharger thus not pushing oil to the sides thus leaking to your hot side of the turbocharger.... you just install the adapter on either end of the oil feed line.....in other words going from a burger king straw to a chinese rest. straw looolll......let me know if you understood... |
11-04-2010, 02:07 PM | #291 | |
Drives: VITZ Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 58
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Quote:
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11-04-2010, 02:10 PM | #292 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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HAHA, wow, he's already built the turbo and is in the tuning process now.
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11-04-2010, 04:25 PM | #293 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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.... make sure you are idling your motor for a minute or two before shutting it down, to let the oil cool a bit and drain. Especially if you're not using water lines to keep it cool during operation.
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. Last edited by cali yaris; 11-04-2010 at 07:01 PM. |
11-05-2010, 03:59 AM | #294 |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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11-07-2010, 09:57 PM | #295 | |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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Quote:
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11-07-2010, 11:44 PM | #296 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.
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11-08-2010, 06:41 PM | #297 |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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I checked the shaft play when I had the downpipe off last. It was OK. I'm not sure what [re+re] means. I am assuming that is canadian secret code for replace, LOL. I would love to replace the seal. I dont know where I could get a oil seal for some chinese nock off turbo though. I could not even read the hyroglifics on the box. If you have any ideas ??? let me know.
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11-08-2010, 07:56 PM | #298 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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re+re = repair and replace
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
11-08-2010, 08:15 PM | #299 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Well, I'd say that if it's a GT25 knock-off chances are a seal for real GT25 would work. It'd be worth a shot if it's only a few bucks.
Oh, and my version of re+re is remove and replace. |
11-09-2010, 12:02 AM | #300 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Out of curiosity, does the turbo need to be rebalanced if the seals are replaced?
I may be looking at doing the same thing unfortunately. I've been finding oil in the coupler where my BOV is. Could be left over, but I dunno |
11-09-2010, 07:24 AM | #301 |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Clean it and see if it comes back
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11-10-2010, 01:34 AM | #302 |
Drives: Yaris Sedan 07 Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 11
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ok about re+re it ok but the tip is to mark the position of the nut with the axle so you know till what point adjust the nut so you would hold 95% of the balance when puting it back together..i did this with a file or if you want do it with a sharpie BUT DONT ERASE IT WHILE CLEANING!! but yes buy the seals of ebay if your knock off doesnt not have water lines (hibrid) look for dry turbo rebuild kit for your specific turbocharger.. mine was to3 but i dont know yours.. but important DRY!!! NOT wet because you dont have water lines goind through.. if you do that you can get a little more out of your knock off till you get some money for a real one.. and BTW i converted a cheap knock off into a 99.9% garret.. how? well we have a shop here that changed everything except my hot housing cuz i already had the cheap flange (4 bolt) for the down pipe.. it cost me around $300 and he even converte it to garret hybrid (wet) and believe me it is a real garret allaround ! compare 1,000 to 300 !! if you want here's his email...gigitoturbo@aol.com http://stores.ebay.com/Yiyito-Turbo-Service i know it is here in puerto rico but he has an ebay account too and i know for a fact he doesn't have a problem with shipping things.. so if you are interested send him an email explaining what you have and if you have that option of converting it and for how much..
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11-12-2010, 03:19 AM | #303 |
Drives: VITZ Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 58
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11-28-2010, 10:37 PM | #304 |
C'est la vie
Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
Posts: 482
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OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.
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11-28-2010, 11:24 PM | #305 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 875
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Quote:
Also, since we tuned the same way - are you noticing irregularities in your map? For example, now that it's cold and my IAT is hovering around 30F, I've noticed my AFRs have richened by as much as a whole point. I'm thinking colder IATs force the ECU to change the open loop maps slightly. It may not even be the IATs, but I had perfectly accurate AFRs until it got REALLY cold the last week. |
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11-29-2010, 10:33 AM | #306 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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pimp, you changed the location AND the size? I think it will be hard to tell which change fixed the problem.
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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