Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[cali yaris]

.... make sure you are idling your motor for a minute or two before shutting it down, to let the oil cool a bit and drain. Especially if you're not using water lines to keep it cool during operation.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I'd find out if there's any shaft play first. If it's fine, I'd just re+re the seals and have another go at it. It's your cheapest option.

I checked the shaft play when I had the downpipe off last. It was OK. I'm not sure what [re+re] means. I am assuming that is canadian secret code for replace, LOL. I would love to replace the seal. I dont know where I could get a oil seal for some chinese nock off turbo though. I could not even read the hyroglifics on the box. If you have any ideas ??? let me know.

[cali yaris]

re+re = repair and replace

[Bluevitz-rs]

Well, I'd say that if it's a GT25 knock-off chances are a seal for real GT25 would work. It'd be worth a shot if it's only a few bucks.

Oh, and my version of re+re is remove and replace.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Out of curiosity, does the turbo need to be rebalanced if the seals are replaced?

I may be looking at doing the same thing unfortunately. I've been finding oil in the coupler where my BOV is. Could be left over, but I dunno

[Yoda]

Clean it and see if it comes back

[Dj WaRrIoR]

ok about re+re it ok but the tip is to mark the position of the nut with the axle so you know till what point adjust the nut so you would hold 95% of the balance when puting it back together..i did this with a file or if you want do it with a sharpie BUT DONT ERASE IT WHILE CLEANING!! but yes buy the seals of ebay if your knock off doesnt not have water lines (hibrid) look for dry turbo rebuild kit for your specific turbocharger.. mine was to3 but i dont know yours.. but important DRY!!! NOT wet because you dont have water lines goind through.. if you do that you can get a little more out of your knock off till you get some money for a real one.. and BTW i converted a cheap knock off into a 99.9% garret.. how? well we have a shop here that changed everything except my hot housing cuz i already had the cheap flange (4 bolt) for the down pipe.. it cost me around $300 and he even converte it to garret hybrid (wet) and believe me it is a real garret allaround ! compare 1,000 to 300 !! if you want here's his email...gigitoturbo@aol.com http://stores.ebay.com/Yiyito-Turbo-Service i know it is here in puerto rico but he has an ebay account too and i know for a fact he doesn't have a problem with shipping things.. so if you are interested send him an email explaining what you have and if you have that option of converting it and for how much..

[pimp my yaris]

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

When you say 1/2in hose, do you mean a -8 AN line? The first thing I was thinking about doing was increasing the size of the line.

Also, since we tuned the same way - are you noticing irregularities in your map? For example, now that it's cold and my IAT is hovering around 30F, I've noticed my AFRs have richened by as much as a whole point. I'm thinking colder IATs force the ECU to change the open loop maps slightly. It may not even be the IATs, but I had perfectly accurate AFRs until it got REALLY cold the last week.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

When you say 1/2in hose, do you mean a -8 AN line? The first thing I was thinking about doing was increasing the size of the line.

STANDARD AUTOMOTIVE HOSE/AN EQUIVALENT
1/4" / -4
3/8" / -6
1/2" / -8
5/8" / -10
3/4" / -12

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

[Schizoprenia]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

OK I finally did some work to eliminate my smoke problem on cold engine starts. The problem has been getting progressivly worse as the weather gets colder. Their has been a lot of talk about where the oil return enters the pan. I dont believe that is the problem. But I admit its a possibility. My oil return was submerged in oil in the lower part of the pan. So this weekend I removed the right side axel and relocated the return to the top of the pan above the oil level. I also switched from a 1/4npt fitting and a 3/8in hose to a more free flowing 3/8npt fitting and a 1/2in hose. The thing is huge. For sure if I continue to have a cold start smoke problem, I know it will not be the return. I have finished the work and just need to fill with fluids tomarrow after my silicone drys on my oil pan. I will also take a pic. tomarrow.

how hard is it to remove the axel?

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Schizoprenia

how hard is it to remove the axel?

Not to hard. You must remove right front wheel. Then remove the bolt on the spindle that clamps the lower ball joint to the spindle. Then you must remove the nut that holds the axel in the center of the front hub. I believe its 30mm and must be a twelve point socket. Then slide the axel out of the front hub and slide the ball joint out of the spindle. Then you can pull the rotor hub and caliper can be pulled out of the way and tied up. Then using a pry bar you can pop the axel out of the transmission. Drain transmission fluid out first or it will be messy. Muake sure if the axel needs to be hammered out of the front hub the threads are not damaged. Air tools and a compressor make this job much easier.

[cali yaris]

pimp, you changed the location AND the size? I think it will be hard to tell which change fixed the problem.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

pimp, you changed the location AND the size? I think it will be hard to tell which change fixed the problem.

Id take the bet that his problem is solved. Yes it might be hard to tell since he did 2 changes @ once but the location IMO is the difference....

[pimp my yaris]

Well so far so good. I have only started the car once after the repair but so far no smoke. I will know more after I start my car to go home from work at 10pm. If this is all I needed I will be so happy. I was ready to throw down $915 for a garrett GT2554R. I thought the oil seals were bad on my turbo. The turbo I am using works great and spools really fast. The only problem I had was the smokey exhaust.
I would much rather use the cash for a vacation to Mexico

O' ya this is the artical reguarding oil drains, I read when shopping for garrett turbos on their web site. Very informative. And thanks Cdydjded for bringing this up when we talked.

OIL LEAKAGE SHOULD NOT OCCUR ON A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING
SYSTEM IF RESTRICTOR IS NOT USED UNLESS THE SYSTEM
PRESSURE IS EXCESSIVELY HIGH.

Oil Drain
In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient
for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole
in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking
of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil
outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level
ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that
oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:

■Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
■Draining into oil pan below oil level
■Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
■Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft

When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel
to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within
15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Well so far so good. I have only started the car once after the repair but so far no smoke. I will know more after I start my car to go home from work at 10pm. If this is all I needed I will be so happy. I was ready to throw down $915 for a garrett GT2554R. I thought the oil seals were bad on my turbo. The turbo I am using works great and spools really fast. The only problem I had was the smokey exhaust.
I would much rather use the cash for a vacation to Mexico

O' ya this is the artical reguarding oil drains, I read when shopping for garrett turbos on their web site. Very informative. And thanks Cdydjded for bringing this up when we talked.

OIL LEAKAGE SHOULD NOT OCCUR ON A PROPERLY FUNCTIONING
SYSTEM IF RESTRICTOR IS NOT USED UNLESS THE SYSTEM
PRESSURE IS EXCESSIVELY HIGH.

Oil Drain
In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient
for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole
in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking
of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil
outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level
ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that
oil flows freely away from the center housing.
Avoid:

■Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground
■Draining into oil pan below oil level
■Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan
■Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft

When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel
to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within
15° of being perpendicular to level ground.

Glad someone is seeing the light