Forced Induction and Engine Wear - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

changchewsoon · 08-09-2009, 11:50 PM

i discovered that there are some visible signs of wear and tear to my crank and rod bearings after boosting the engine for about a year+.

cali yaris · 08-09-2009, 11:52 PM

^ Any pictures? I'm sure there would be a lot of interest in seeing that.

CASTREX · 08-10-2009, 12:20 PM

Safely means: "You don't blow your engine when you are doing a WOT pass" It doesn't mean that it will last the same as if you let your engine stock.

If a STOCK Yaris engine was supposed to get 350,000 miles before a rebuild... a boosted Yaris will get there sooner.

How sooner? There is no straight answer. Depends on the maintenance, and mostly in how you drive your car.

Upgraded internals such as forged pistons and rods are not intended to increase longevity... Those are made to increase the engines ability to handle higher boost levels. Usually when you built an engine is because is going take some abuse... Longevity is not a major concern for people who spend the big bucks building an engine.

Realiability, longevity = STOCK

can't beat that.

Penguin Garage · 08-10-2009, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

After the initial break-in, I've been changing my tC oil every 3000 miles for normal driving, or after a few race days, or when it looks dirty, whichever comes first. I'm sure people do maintenance on differing schedules though. I know some more hardcore racers that do it after every race weekend.

blackstone oil analysis is a racers best friend, they'll be able to tell you almost everything about your engine.

some people do enough abuse to their oil after 1 weekend, some can go 3-4 weekends + daily driving before they "need" to change.

it really depends on the setup and oil analysis is a very cheap and good idea, especially if they have a baseline of your car pre-boost. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by battleversiontc

oem boosted engines are built more solid and come with lower compression then n/a cars do. and also alot of research and development went into designing the motor and plus to they have alot of years behind them doing this and i mean alot. but upgrade the rods and pistons and change oil earlier then you normally would and run necessary gauges to monitor and dont beat the crap out it everyday and it will be reliable if tuned ight of course

lots of different variables when building a motor, assuming it'd put together right and it's tuned right you still will see less miles out of a built motor than you would a stock one.

good idea is to build it for 250 more horsepower then you plan to have. :)

cali yaris · 08-10-2009, 02:40 PM

Quote:

good idea is to build it for 250 more horsepower then you plan to have. :)

So I should have built for 600 hp? ouch.

changchewsoon · 08-10-2009, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ Any pictures? I'm sure there would be a lot of interest in seeing that.

we discovered that when we took out the pistons for ceramic coating last round. i promise i will take pictures and post it up when we crack open the engine for rebuild. recently ordered toga bearings from IPP, will take some time for the shipment to reach Malaysia.

changchewsoon · 02-05-2010, 12:51 AM

some pics of the bearings that i took now that the engine is out for rebuilt.

Yoda · 02-05-2010, 08:46 AM

hmmmm

cali yaris · 02-05-2010, 09:19 AM

What to look for in these pictures? I'm no expert.

Yaris Hilton · 02-05-2010, 10:43 AM

There's some pitting there that shouldn't be.

changchewsoon · 02-06-2010, 03:37 PM

was boosting 9 psi and yeah i do push the car very hard most of the time, often lingering at the red line limit.

well nevertheless the bearings would have to be replaced. hopefully the Toga bearings I purchased from IPP will perform.

i wasn't able to locate a part number for our 1NZ from ACL and Clevite. if anyone here manages to do so appreciate if you could share.

alright, i'll try to snap pictures of the crank as well, was thinking to keep the stock crank pulley though.

08-09-2009, 11:50 PM	#19
changchewsoon View User's Garage Drives: Vios Turbo Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Malaysia Posts: 190	i discovered that there are some visible signs of wear and tear to my crank and rod bearings after boosting the engine for about a year+. __________________ 454 whp, 1.7 bar boost, pump gas, water/meth. 501 whp, 2.2 bar boost, pump gas + avgas, no water/meth. www.viosturbo.com - World's first 500 WHP 1NZ-FE

08-09-2009, 11:52 PM	#20
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	^ Any pictures? I'm sure there would be a lot of interest in seeing that. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-05-2010, 09:19 AM	#27
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	What to look for in these pictures? I'm no expert. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-06-2010, 03:37 PM	#29
changchewsoon View User's Garage Drives: Vios Turbo Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Malaysia Posts: 190	was boosting 9 psi and yeah i do push the car very hard most of the time, often lingering at the red line limit. well nevertheless the bearings would have to be replaced. hopefully the Toga bearings I purchased from IPP will perform. i wasn't able to locate a part number for our 1NZ from ACL and Clevite. if anyone here manages to do so appreciate if you could share. alright, i'll try to snap pictures of the crank as well, was thinking to keep the stock crank pulley though. __________________ 454 whp, 1.7 bar boost, pump gas, water/meth. 501 whp, 2.2 bar boost, pump gas + avgas, no water/meth. www.viosturbo.com - World's first 500 WHP 1NZ-FE

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Whistle at idle - vacuum leak, induction side	RichieRoo	General Yaris / Vitz Discussion	17	12-16-2022 05:53 AM
TC swap?	MicroHB	Performance Modifications	38	03-26-2009 12:39 AM
Induction with an Auto-Trans.	Sweet Mercury	Forced Induction Forum	7	09-08-2007 03:15 PM
Engine mods - why bother?	RallyYaris	Performance Modifications	143	12-24-2006 03:56 AM

08-10-2009, 12:20 PM	#21
CASTREX Who said Yaris was slow? View User's Garage Drives: Yaris T-Sport 2008 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Costa Rica Posts: 1,287	Safely means: "You don't blow your engine when you are doing a WOT pass" It doesn't mean that it will last the same as if you let your engine stock. If a STOCK Yaris engine was supposed to get 350,000 miles before a rebuild... a boosted Yaris will get there sooner. How sooner? There is no straight answer. Depends on the maintenance, and mostly in how you drive your car. Upgraded internals such as forged pistons and rods are not intended to increase longevity... Those are made to increase the engines ability to handle higher boost levels. Usually when you built an engine is because is going take some abuse... Longevity is not a major concern for people who spend the big bucks building an engine. Realiability, longevity = STOCK can't beat that.

02-05-2010, 08:46 AM	#26
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	hmmmm

02-05-2010, 10:43 AM	#28
Yaris Hilton Half a Bubble Off Plumb Drives: 2009 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA Posts: 1,593	There's some pitting there that shouldn't be.