megan coilover settings

[xnamerxx]

With crash bolts I only got -1.5 and I needed to slot the holes to get an additional -1.5. Your neg camber can also vary depending on how much you've lowered the car as well so if Garm's lowered 3" hes going to be pretty deep into his camber curve whereas if you've only dropped an inch you won't have much camber gain. Remember suspension travels on a slight arc.

The right left readings will always be there because there is always tolerances built into everything. The .3 difference is meaningless and isn't even noticeable in most applications.

As for your rubbing you have +20 offset wheels that are 8" wide and with the relatively light spring rate in the rear with the megans and possibly a car that's been lowered to far you'll get rubbing when you hit a bump or turn hard or even have a few heavy passengers in the back.

[1.5]

As far as my drop I am slammed pretty low with about <4" of ground clearance. So by your information I should be able to get more camber gain.

As for my wheel/tire size, I understand I can rub on turns or on big dips, but this is only the rear driver side that rubs. The passenger side does not rub at all. I am also gutted so there is no one in the back. With the stock megan coilovers I have the stiffness now set at 4 (1 being hardest 32 being softest) and I still rub that one tire. If my tire/wheel size was an issue, both sides should rub.

I am getting skinnier tires to stretch on, adding shims to apply neg camber to the rear to tuck them into the fenders, and get some higher rate springs.

No one seems to know why only one tire would rub though?

[xnamerxx]

Your wheels are to wide with too little offset. Its not a tire issue is a wheel issue. Your offset should really be in a 40+ range for those wheels and at +20 they are going to stick out to much.

Shock stiffness doesn't equal spring stiffness, your rear springs are 170/" which means for every inch they compress their holding 170 lbs so your body weight will compress the spring slightly when you get in the car. But your weight gets distributed between the 4 wheels but more so on the drivers side so your likely compressing the spring 1/2" just by being in the car and when you hit a bump the force compressing the spring can be many many hundreds of lbs even with a shock set to uber stiff the spring will still compress. So what does this all mean you ask?

To fix your problems you need to do fix the problem
1)Raise the ride height so the wheel no longer contacts the body or
2)Get way stiffer springs so the wheel can no longer compress enough to contact the body
3)Get narrower wheels that tuck within the fenderwell and cannot contact the body

[1.5]

To fix my problems I am getting stiffer springs, skinnier tires, and shims.

I was just inquiring as to if it is the low offset wheels why is it only one side?

I WILL NOT change wheel sizes. Unless going even lower. I am not concerned with why wheels rub only why it is only one side.

[xnamerxx]

To answer your question again. Its not just one reason but the main reasons why its happening is because you have low offset wheels, are heavy, have soft springs, and are lowered to much.

So to dumb things down when you sit in the car your weight gets distributed between the 4 wheels into something like this

60lbs|50lbs
80lbs|40lbs

So what happens is that one rear wheel has to bare an extra amount of weight and the more weight that wheel has to bare the more it sags so now you have one corner of the car that sags more than the others when you drive around and when you hit bumps and dips it rubs because of just that little bit extra weight on it.

So like I said before to fix the problem pick one of the 3.

[1.5]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

So to dumb things down when you sit in the car your weight gets distributed between the 4 wheels into something like this

60lbs|50lbs
80lbs|40lbs

So what happens is that one rear wheel has to bare an extra amount of weight and the more weight that wheel has to bare the more it sags so now you have one corner of the car that sags more than the others when you drive around and when you hit bumps and dips it rubs because of just that little bit extra weight on it.

So like I said before to fix the problem pick one of the 3.

That's exactly the information I was looking for thank you!

It clearly explains with my weight vs the different spring rates combined with my sitting position causes different scenarios for each corner.

[1.5]

Garm you asked for pics of the camber bolt and the spindle touching the shock body, I got under the car and took pictures but I don't show them touching at all... was I just lied to? In the last two pics you can see there appears to be space between the two.

IMG_20120822_101303.jpg

IMG_20120822_101355.jpg

IMG_20120822_101529.jpg

IMG_20120822_101557.jpg

[DeathBeard]

so any news on your camera cable? I want to get these coilovers but confused as to what oem parts I am going to be transfering over to the megans? All the current diy's don't shed any light on this and the instructions from megan seem abysmal at best

[DeathBeard]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

With crash bolts I only got -1.5 and I needed to slot the holes to get an additional -1.5. Your neg camber can also vary depending on how much you've lowered the car as well so if Garm's lowered 3" hes going to be pretty deep into his camber curve whereas if you've only dropped an inch you won't have much camber gain. Remember suspension travels on a slight arc.

The right left readings will always be there because there is always tolerances built into everything. The .3 difference is meaningless and isn't even noticeable in most applications.

As for your rubbing you have +20 offset wheels that are 8" wide and with the relatively light spring rate in the rear with the megans and possibly a car that's been lowered to far you'll get rubbing when you hit a bump or turn hard or even have a few heavy passengers in the back.

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

I used a die grinder and a carbide bit but I couldn't tell you the size it was just something I grabbed from the shop. I slotted it out to the edge mark of the bolt on the upper bolt hole it give you an idea of how far I went out.

A drill bit would make the job take quite a bit more time FYI since most of the shocks are thick DOM.

[1.5]

I did get my new card reader for Pro duo cards so I will make the diy soon.

I did not slot the struts I only installed the bolts to the standard holes.

[DeathBeard]

awesome thank you..Yarisworld seriously needs a good DIY on these coilovers

[1.5]

LOL yes I will try to do this tomorrow and get it up soon. Should be a slow day at work for me.

[DeathBeard]

Hopefully Barber doesn't mind, but this is the only real picture I could find anywhere on the coilovers..Confusing because my understanding is your supposed to remove the strut bearing (round metal thing under his index finger) and press it into the red top plate provided by megan and then the rubber doughnut, your supposed to toss the black oem top plate and not reuse it?

[1.5]

Yea you do reuse the stock bolt he may have just put that one on from the other side to make a comparison. The red tophat is also used maybe he just forgot it in this pic. I think the rears have an even larger size difference. So much so, the megan coilover springs set to the highest height are still too short to say in place with the stock struts on.

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by DeathBeard

did you use a 7/16 drill bit to slot the struts? I'm assuming you used the top hole?

By top hole I assume you mean the upper of the 2 bolts that secure the strut to upright not the upper bolt hole that secures the strut to the chassis.

[DeathBeard]

yes like this

[DeathBeard]

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

I used a die grinder and a carbide bit but I couldn't tell you the size it was just something I grabbed from the shop. I slotted it out to the edge mark of the bolt on the upper bolt hole it give you an idea of how far I went out.

A drill bit would make the job take quite a bit more time FYI since most of the shocks are thick DOM.

is your die grinder hooked up to air? i dont have access to a compressor