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Old 07-27-2012, 11:09 PM   #1
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Did you think of maybe running a Corolla TB on it later on down the road?
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:38 AM   #2
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Did you think of maybe running a Corolla TB on it later on down the road?
I don't think so, because I don't want to deal with trying to rig up throttle linkage and fighting ECU issues. It's much simpler just to run the stock Yaris throttle body.
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:52 AM   #3
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I thought I read a thread where people were using a corolla TB with no wiring/ecu issues. Plug and play. Why not go that route? My plan is to buy another stock intake manifold and port match it to a corolla TB.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #4
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I thought I read a thread where people were using a corolla TB with no wiring/ecu issues. Plug and play. Why not go that route? My plan is to buy another stock intake manifold and port match it to a corolla TB.
Can you find where you saw that? Is the Corolla throttle body also drive by wire?
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:17 PM   #5
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$2000? I guess i forgot how much machine shop time costs since my time is free.

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Old 08-13-2012, 06:23 PM   #6
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$2000? I guess i forgot how much machine shop time costs since my time is free.


You can drink your coffee again...

...because that's not just for the single prototype, but for a small limited production run of tooters.

I even have the marketing slogan:

"if it sucks... it's a tooter"
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:29 AM   #7
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http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=throttle+body
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=throttle+body

there's been a few threads on it...
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:44 AM   #8
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Thanks for the threads, Blue.

I don't think I want to get involved in drilling out rivets, swapping chips, cracking idle screws, and rerouting coolant lines just now. Right now I'm focused on just one project... the manifold. Things turn out the best when I only do one thing at a time.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:35 AM   #9
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There have been very mixed results with the 4-bolt DBW Corolla TBs, ranging from no issues to abject failure. They are electrically compatible, but the only real benefit from using one (w/o engine management) is that you effectively open the throttle faster. The corolla has a larger diameter TB, so you allow more air flow for the same throttle signal.

Beyond that, I really don't know the specifics. There's the potential to lean out your AFR too much at WOT because the ECU isn't expecting that much air to be available, and the stock fuel maps may cause it to misbehave.

Going to a 3-bolt, cable throttle with a separate throttle position sensor (TPS) is only practical with standalone engine management (this is how Garm gets away with it) due to unresolved issues with the stock TPS signal. I believe that CTScott poked around with a scope and meter on a stock TB but wasn't able (?) to make sense of the signals.

There has been a good deal of debate and experimenting with this, but no magic bullet solution. It mostly comes down to the stock ECU being a "learning" unit, and it's not happy with signals outside of the expected range.
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
First, because it it is plenty strong to take being pressurized,
The stock manifold will handle 20+ psi of boost. It's pretty strong. Chris Rado ran his time attack tC the whole first season with a stock plastic mani on it. On the Yaris, I haven't heard of one failing, and we have quite a few turbo kits out there running various levels of boost.
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:15 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info, Garm.

I know nothing about forced induction, and just figured that the stock plastic OEM manifold was designed for vacuum and not pressure.
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:15 PM   #12
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Test fitting time...



It's a drop in fit!

Did a little fine tuning with the Dremel. Since these were both undercuts, I just did them by hand...





Clears the fuel rail perfectly with ~almost~ zero clearance...



Ports matched flawlessly...



Next up: test fit the throttle body.
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:40 PM   #13
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The flange is now a drop in fit, the throttle body bolts onto the adaptor like a dream, and the rest of the manifold has no clearance issues... ( goody )













However... nothing else fits!

All of the hoses are going to need rerouting, and I'm going to have to find a way to (gulp!) lose 2 3/4 inches on the already super short ram intake to make the air filter fit. But these issues are minor compared to getting the manifold itself to work out.
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Old 07-28-2012, 05:10 PM   #14
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where did you bought the oem gasket ?

I will need to pickup a bunch of gasket :)
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:17 PM   #15
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Wow I like how the first pic look !
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:46 PM   #16
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you should do a little cleanup of the head while the flange has no runners on it. would make it SUPER easy to 100% port match it and get rid of the casting marks.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:03 AM   #17
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you should do a little cleanup of the head while the flange has no runners on it. would make it SUPER easy to 100% port match it and get rid of the casting marks.
If the head was off the engine I'd give it a whirl. But with the head on, I don't want to risk getting metal chips in the engine.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:26 AM   #18
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If the head was off the engine I'd give it a whirl. But with the head on, I don't want to risk getting metal chips in the engine.
There's no risk if the valves are closed. Then just blow it out with compressed air.
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