tooter's manifold adventure...

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

There's no risk if the valves are closed. Then just blow it out with compressed air.

This is just a personal preference and I know that other people do this... but I'm not going to grind on a head when its on the engine. There is a sticky residue inside the engine ports that will make small chips stick in the crevices around the valve stems and valve heads even under pressurized air. there's also an issue of blowing tiny metal chips around under the hood. that means the alternator needs to be covered as well as the belt so that chips don't get stuck under it. With one cylinder's valves closed, some of the others will be open, so they would need to be plugged and taped. The only way I'd grind is if the valves were out and the head could be hot tanked afterwards.

There's also another reason... that would be making two changes at once, so I wouldn't be able to accurately quantify the difference on the dyno with just the manifold itself.

But, hey, you're perfectly free to grind your head if you want.

The manifold can be glass beaded because afterwards it can be hot tanked to insure that every particle of blasting medium is gone. Being a junkyard part, it's totally filthy and sticky inside and would need professional cleaning even if it wasn't blasted. It's hard to make out, but this was the original condition...



The runners are all as dirty as those ports, and all the way through, as well as the complete inside of the plenum. There is an intake port that extends into the middle of the plenum which makes it impossible to clean without being totally immersed.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by tooter

Being a junkyard part, it's totally filthy and sticky inside and would need professional cleaning even if it wasn't blasted. It's hard to make out, but this was the original condition...

The runners are all as dirty as those ports, and all the way through, as well as the complete inside of the plenum. There is an intake port that extends into the middle of the plenum which makes it impossible to clean without being totally immersed.

Mine was that dirty on the outside too. I'm not sure if this applies to non-TDI manifolds, but this seems to be a pretty popular method:
http://youtu.be/oet4qWeZuYA

[ljming99]

Nice,

Im guessing the next order of the day would be some dyno charts

[fnkngrv]

this work is SO much fun to watch. i applaud you.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

this work is SO much fun to watch. i applaud you.

Thanks, groove...

I'm having so much fun learning from this unfolding process and addressing the details as they present themselves by coming up with creative solutions.

[packetrace]

how much for the flange and adaptor ? can you hve other one made ? :D

[tooter]

Originally Posted by packetrace

how much for the flange and adaptor ? can you hve other one made ? :D

First I need to know if this setup will even work decently. That will determine whether or not it would be worth your while. We'll all find out if it's "go" or just "show" after the prototype has been run on the dyno.

But IF this works (and, man, that's a really big IF )...

...I do think that the mounting flange, throttle body adaptor and its 3 mounting bolts, and all 3 gaskets would make a really neato "do-it-yourself" kit.

Then you could simply get your own junkyard manifold and finish it up any way you'd like.

[enviri]

soo your manifold is off a 1zz drive by cable? If we got hold of the dbw 1zz with the 4 bolt throttle body, would we just need the mounting flange only?
*confused*

Originally Posted by tooter

First I need to know if this setup will even work decently. That will determine whether or not it would be worth your while. We'll all find out if it's "go" or just "show" after the prototype has been run on the dyno.

But IF this works (and, man, that's a really big IF )...

...I do think that the mounting flange, throttle body adaptor and its 3 mounting bolts, and all 3 gaskets would make a really neato "do-it-yourself" kit.

Then you could simply get your own junkyard manifold and finish it up any way you'd like.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by enviri

soo your manifold is off a 1zz drive by cable?

Yes. It's off of an 1998-2003 Toyota Corolla 1.8L 1ZZ-FE engine with a 3 bolt cable operated throttle body.

If we got hold of the dbw 1zz with the 4 bolt throttle body, would we just need the mounting flange only?
*confused*

The adaptor only adapts the Corolla 1ZZ-FE 3 bolt cable controlled throttle body manifold to the Yaris 1NZ-FE 4 bolt electronically controlled throttle body.

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by tooter

The adaptor only adapts the Corolla 1ZZ-FE 3 bolt cable controlled throttle body manifold to the Yaris 1NZ-FE 4 bolt electronically controlled throttle body.

Not entirely true: the Corolla 4-bolt TB is the same mounting pattern, just with a larger diameter hole/valve.

[Viperoni]

Very nice, hit the road yet? :D

[Viperoni]

Just for the heck of it, I found the 1NZ-FXE intake....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-TO...f6d5ae&vxp=mtr

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Viperoni

Just for the heck of it, I found the 1NZ-FXE intake....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-TO...f6d5ae&vxp=mtr

I saw that really odd one, too. It's specifically designed to operate an engine within a narrow rpm range like a stationary industrial engine.

It's made to charge the batteries on a Prius.

[Viperoni]

Originally Posted by tooter

I saw that really odd one, too. It's specifically designed to operate an engine within a narrow rpm range like a stationary industrial engine.

It's made to charge the batteries on a Prius.

I believe the engine gets connected to the driveline on the Prius and is used to directly propel the car in addition to the electric motor (as opposed to only charging the batteries).

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by Viperoni

I believe the engine gets connected to the driveline on the Prius and is used to directly propel the car in addition to the electric motor (as opposed to only charging the batteries).

it does. the engine operates between 1200-5000 rpm

[Viperoni]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

it does. the engine operates between 1200-5000 rpm

That I didn't know... that definitely makes it easier to increase the engine's efficiency.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

it does. the engine operates between 1200-5000 rpm

Same here. I had no idea that the engine was actually connected to the driveline. That manifold configuration is exactly the same as I've seen on stationary industrial engines that operate at a "fixed" rpm.

Do you know that when it's running is it propelling the car concurrently with the electric motor? 1200 to 5000 means that it is never idling, but is always under a load.

[cali yaris]

scroll back everyone, there is a pool for your guesses on horsepower and torque changes (gain or loss)... with a prize.