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12-18-2010, 12:14 PM | #397 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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^ If you take his post in its entirety and don't cherry pick one sentence, you can see that what he meant by "waste" is that you don't get your money back out of the investment in a tangible way.
turboecho has spent more than most of us on his projects and was happy to do it. You can see by the last sentence that he is cheering Parmas on. carlos, you have 633 posts -- is there one where you admit you're wrong, about anything? Go for it Parmas, keep at it - your build has taught me a few things. I think a Mod should delete all this crap - including mine.
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
12-29-2010, 09:33 AM | #398 |
ah, i've been out of action for a while due to frequent business trips. i see that parmas has made improvement and progress! kudos bro!
well, i've been adding parts non stop to my car too and it has made zero horsepower so far because the built isn't finished yet. so, i guess i need to start feeling like sh*t now because somebody here thinks by doing all these mods and adding all these parts its a waste of time eh? i've learned so much from this site because there are good people here whose willing to share, and i hope to be able to return the favor in the future as well. heh, parmas i think you should ignore all those nay sayers and just go ahead and complete your build. do what you want with it, and we thank you for sharing it with us.
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454 whp, 1.7 bar boost, pump gas, water/meth. 501 whp, 2.2 bar boost, pump gas + avgas, no water/meth. www.viosturbo.com - World's first 500 WHP 1NZ-FE |
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12-30-2010, 03:39 AM | #399 | |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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Quote:
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01-01-2011, 12:16 PM | #400 |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hamilton, Canada
Posts: 259
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Awesome build parmas, don't let anyone tell you different. Did you make a final choice on which intake to go with?
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05' Echo Hatch - Greddy Supercharger - rear disc |
01-01-2011, 09:42 PM | #401 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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01-14-2011, 03:35 AM | #402 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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Today I woke adventurous and tried to explain myself why this oil leak is happening.
Since the turbo is behind the engine, compactly placed between the rear of the engine bay and a squid form long manifold it was always like a taboo for me since it is out of reach. I managed to reach the lower inlet part of the turbo and got a nice black oil leak on my finger. If I could explain more exactly, it was exactly at the Big Circlip on the lower intake side (The upper side is dry)Attachment 2743Attachment 2742Attachment 2741. A walk with my finger around it feeled wet (but not much with oil). During my adventure I noticed the turbo oil feed and drain. They are not exactly in a vertical position (feed north and drain south) but they look more (feed NorthWest and drain South east). Apart of that, the drain is fixed with a 45 degree fitting and then slanting (not vertical) downwards. The last picture posted why the turbo was mounted this way up because if we tilted more it would hit the engine top cover. So I ask, is there a way to clock the turbo right to get a vertical feed to drain? Also When clocking the turbo will it move only the center bearing housing? |
01-14-2011, 11:00 AM | #403 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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This might answer most of you questions:
Oil Drain In general, the larger the oil drain, the better. However, a -10AN is typically sufficient for proper oil drainage, but try not to have an inner diameter smaller than the drain hole in the housing as this will likely cause the oil to back up in the center housing. Speaking of oil backing up in the center housing, a gravity feed needs to be just that! The oil outlet should follow the direction of gravity +/-35° when installed in the vehicle on level ground. If a gravity feed is not possible, a scavenge pump should be used to insure that oil flows freely away from the center housing. Avoid: Undulations in the line or extended lengths parallel to the ground Draining into oil pan below oil level Dead heading into a component behind the oil pan Area behind the oil pan (windage tray window) where oil sling occurs from crankshaft When installing your turbocharger, insure that the turbocharger axis of rotation is parallel to the level ground within +/- 15°. This means that the oil inlet/outlet should be within 15° of being perpendicular to level ground. BTW are you using an oil inlet restricter? If not you might have to much oil pressure going into the turbo. That will cause leaks. |
01-14-2011, 01:16 PM | #404 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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Thanks cdydjded...
The drain is about double the size of the feed that is sure. What do you mean by scavenge pump? I don't know exactly what do you mean by oil inlet restrictor but the turbo feed fitting has an inner hole diameter of about 2~3mm I know ball bearing turbos don't need much oil to work efficiently but how can I know I am giving the right amount of oil flow/pressure? |
01-14-2011, 01:48 PM | #405 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Dont worry about the scavenge pump. It really doesnt apply to your issue. You oil feed line should be a -3 or -4 hose & your oil return should be a -8 or -10.
Here is a pic of the oil feed pressure restrictor: resize.jpg This lowers the oil pressure going into the turbo. You dont need any more than 30-40psi of oil to go into the turbo. |
01-14-2011, 07:37 PM | #406 |
Drives: Yaris 5 doors Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Eastern township Qc
Posts: 12
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Oil pressure in the turbo must be:
Idle hot: 5 psi Maximum load: 25 psi Idle hot min. flow: 0.1 gal/min Maximum load: 0.5 gal/min |
01-15-2011, 12:48 AM | #407 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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01-15-2011, 02:48 PM | #408 |
Drives: Yaris 5 doors Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Eastern township Qc
Posts: 12
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I take this information in the book Maximum Boost from Corky Bell
http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-...5120802&sr=8-1 A very good book for custom turbo kit builder :) |
01-15-2011, 05:21 PM | #409 | |
Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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Quote:
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01-15-2011, 06:53 PM | #410 | |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Quote:
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01-15-2011, 06:57 PM | #411 | |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Quote:
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01-19-2011, 12:37 PM | #412 |
Drives: Vitz RS Turbo Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: ML
Posts: 576
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And here is a nice view of the intake almost finished with the 70mm throttle body flange.
Still need polishing and cleaning metal residue and we are good to go! |
01-19-2011, 03:36 PM | #413 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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looks familiar
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
01-19-2011, 04:55 PM | #414 | |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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Quote:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...=30308&page=18 |
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