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#1 | |
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You are not going to believe me, I couldn't find BASS & TREBLE in my HU ![]() Just kidding... I don't think there is such a thing on the P99 Thanks again, going back to study the manual for more information
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#2 |
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Audio Junky
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yeah, it is common practice not to put a fuse on the charging wire on the alt. You can put one on tho. i'd make it a big fuse tho. if using 1/0, i'd go bigger than 100amp.... 150-200 probably. If running 4awg i'd go for 100-150.
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#3 |
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I connected both 6.5 speakers (in the doors), now I can hear some music! low frequencies by it self are not the greatest Though |
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#4 |
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I can't believe the amount of customization / tweaking the P99 HU has, using only the Mid Bass drivers (Low Frequency channel) I was able to make it sound much better than OEM HU.
Now my question is... I need to learn more about Frequencies and speakers, in other words Woofers go from 20 to 80??, midbass go from ?? to ??, midrange go from ?? to ?? and Tweeters from ?? to 20,000?? Thanks D. |
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#5 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Okay...ummm...yeah. There is no "Bass" or "Trebble" toggles. It's all in the EQ and Crossover section. You'll have more than you ever need.
with the function button (the right one) to get to your EQ and crossover sections what you'll need to do is: While the unit is on, go ahead and rotate the function button either left or right. This will job the display into "Audio", "Display", or ""Function". Note I haven't even turned mine on in two weeks because I'm waiting for the last 2.9 to get here... Obviously, choose "Audio" In the main audio menu, you can turn the function button left or right throughout the whole process EXCEPT in some sub menus. At this point we're just floating around in the upper menu. What you'll do is to jog the function button until you reach the crossover slopes display. At that point you'll press the function button in. That should give you the ability to float around the 4 way crossover. Now, you SHOULD play with this. You'll be able to range the slopes in regards to frequency range and you'll be able to independantly adjust both left and right on said slopes. Now this adjustment takes another press of the function button BUT I would say to leave it alone and just do broad changes until you're used to the deck. You also have the ability to mute any section of the crossover. This is particularly useful when you're tuning... I KNOW there's more. I'm just wasted from a 13 hour work day yesterday/this morning and would need some specific questions to hone in on. I hope this helps at least guide you in the right direction. ...and yes, I know the head unit is frustrating. This is just the initial reaction to so many options. Feel lucky you don't have the Carrozzeria RS-D7xII! You think our sources have options? PFFFFTT! That is one of THE most ultimate decks ever built. Think better crossover and optical out...
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Try to use all of the source's pre outs. This will give you the best control from the unit.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#8 | |
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I almost have the same configuration as you do, but not as fancy and powerful. 400w X 1 amp for Subwoofer (10" one or 3) I would like a 15" 80w X 2 amp for 6.5 Mid bass 65w X 4 amp for 3.5 Midrange and tweeters So far I've been playing with the 6.5 Mid bass and already sounds better than stock, bass is really good, with some songs I can feel the bass in my chest. I know I've been plying with the crossover points and made the Mid bass sound more like a full range speaker (for now) but slowly I will make the other amps and speakers available, that's why I would like to know what frequencies go with each speaker, I guess it's also a trial and error with what ever sounds better. one question about TA (Time Alignment) it gave me the options to dial in inches for each driver, this means from speaker to my hears? I was able to save one of my own EQ into memory 1 makes a big difference with EQ= FLAT TOO MUCH FUN with this little HU D. |
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#9 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Well...what I'd suggest with TA is to measure from the center of the car, oh around the domelight. If you measure form your head, your stage will be skewed right. I have pretty damned good TA measures. I'll give those to you over PM...I'd rather keep the "secret" of my center image between us. That being said, my speaker setup, and therefore my TA, is going to be different than yours.
My by ear EQ has the top end a raised slightly, the midbass is cut WAY down. I'm WAY down. The kick loading of the 8"s and the cabin response of the Yaris sedan lends itself to midbass response. Oh boy does it. You can do a 15". Look at the Image Dynamics ID 15, your power availability is right in it's power band.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#10 | |
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This morning on my way to work I noticed the stage was skewed to the right, and I had no clue, but guess what?... last night I set up TA with measurements to my head! so you are correct! I'll dial in new measurements, thanks I like the idea of a ID 15 in a 2.3 cuft. in a ported box, where do I buy one of this? Thanks! |
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#11 | |
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I'm starting to understand Time Alignment Here is a graphic I found online that makes sense for me. So the distance from the center of each speaker to the dome-light! so TA is equal on Left and Right? or where is the sweet point? ![]() D. PS.... How does the Posi (position L or R) at the menu of the HU relates to TA? BTW ... I e-mail Jim about the 15" woofer but haven't hear from him... . |
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#12 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Hmmm...from the same guys who sold you the mids! :D Just tell Jim I sent you. The ID woofer isn't expensive. Not like mine thank the Lord. You're going to love this woofer.
Also, pick Jim's brain about the enclosure if you have any specific questions about it. Also, ID has a website where you can get even more specifics on enclosure questions. Heck, you can even talk to the guys that designed it. I'll tell Jim you're going to call sometime soon.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#13 |
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Remember this panel? (B-pillard)
![]() I removed the passengers side to move around cables, and I never really notice how much road noise comes through, now that the car is 95% deaden I can assure you that this panel it's a must after all, specially if you do doors and floor. 2 cts. . |
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#14 |
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Just a quick shot of the interior looking at the new bezel, photos and/or videos of the P99 in action will follow soon! ![]() D. |
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#15 |
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I made this sketch to my self last night!
It's just the beginning of the layout for my amps with rough measurements, I will draw this to scale later, and then will try to build it. Basically it's a top view, the amps go on the floor between front and rear seats, I will rise the floor over this area to protect the amps. Only my kids go in the back, and not very often, so they wouldn't mind the floor been 4 inches higher. The wires from the left are coming from the HU: (from left to right) -6CD Charger magazine that will go in the trunk -(+) or blue wire, this is the one that turns "ON" the amps when the HU is turned "ON" -Then we have audio signals (RCA cables) from HU: - High - Mid - Low - Sub On the top right side of the sketch the main power (+) line and a distribution block with 3 Maxi fuses [20amp, 30amp, 40amp] (one for each amp) On the bottom right the "Ground" (-) wire to a distribution block that leads to one amp and then to another distribution block for the other 2 amps (Should I make individual ground connections for each amp? or is this Ok?) The base is a 1/2 plywood sheet that will cut down to shape and it's overall dimensions are 16"x48" with a small grove in the middle for the Arm-rest and center console, of about 6"x8" I will cover this with black carpet or trunk liner. The first amp it's a 65watts x 4 running Mids and Highs audio signals (3" midrange speaker and tweeter) The amp in the middle handles 60x2 for the Lows (6.5 drivers in the doors) The amp on the left handles 400x1 for the Sub(s) (I'm figuring out what to use, I have three 10" kicker solobarics in a box but it's too heavy) Then if everything goes Ok I will build a structure and have a 3/4" board on top covered with carpet and then you won't see any amps. This is the plan, let's see what happens D.
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#16 |
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Roadrunner Jr.
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Take a picture of that HU L&R screen. I've seen it before but I don't remember at the moment exactly what you're talking about.
I'll holler at Jim about the e-mail.
__________________
“To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead.” ― Thomas Paine |
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#17 | |
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Thanks, I got an email from Jim! Derick
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. CLA 250, 4MATIC |
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#18 | |
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Here is a photo of the P99 on the POSI (position) menu. Like I wrote above this is to select the position of the listener to match the staging. ![]() ![]() ![]() D. |
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