Want to build costom turbo kit. Need advice from boosted guys!

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Parmas

I am running 1mm restrictor in my GT2560R turbo as recommended by Garrett.

Looking from the oil feed you can see a 3mm restrictor but that is not the proper restrictor to use.

I believe the 2560r is a ball bearing turbo, but for a journal bearing turbo like mine, Garrett recomends no restrictor.

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I believe the 2560r is a ball bearing turbo, but for a journal bearing turbo like mine, Garrett recomends no restrictor.

I didn't knew yours was not ball bearing. If so then you should not restrict the oil feed line.

Do you know what oil pressure you have at the turbo feed line?

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Parmas

I didn't knew yours was not ball bearing. If so then you should not restrict the oil feed line.

Do you know what oil pressure you have at the turbo feed line?

No, but its a 4an line so there should be plenty of oil flow.

[pimp my yaris]

Ordered some used 2azfe injectors today. Looking forward to doing some more tuning and mabe a dyno run while its still cold outside. I saw no noticable difference in afr using 1zz injectors from a 99 corolla.

[pimp my yaris]

Yesterday I installed 2azfe injectors from a 08 scion TC. Then spent about an hour driving around and retuning with the AEM FIC. Got it running great and may only need some slight tweeking in the future. I first tryed using my previous map and changed the injector size in the FIC software. That did not work so well, so I had to start from scratch making a new map. The stock injectors could not keep up at high rpm. Now I need a dyno run soon.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Just be ready for super rich AFRs next winter. The ECU will be increasing the duty cycle for cold weather compensation and it's going to be expecting 200ish cc injectors and tCs are what, 360?

[pimp my yaris]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

^ Just be ready for super rich AFRs next winter. The ECU will be increasing the duty cycle for cold weather compensation and it's going to be expecting 200ish cc injectors and tCs are what, 360?

Oh ya. On my first start up the car would barely run. My wide band was pegged at 10:1. Most of my new fuel map is pulling duty cycle back with negative percentages. I am running positive percentages in high boost. The FIC actually zeros out (no intervention) at about 2 psi of boost. At idle its negative 27%

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Oh ya. On my first start up the car would barely run. My wide band was pegged at 10:1. Most of my new fuel map is pulling duty cycle back with negative percentages. I am running positive percentages in high boost. The FIC actually zeros out (no intervention) at about 2 psi of boost. At idle its negative 27%

Months ago I said exactly what you are going through with the TC injectors. They are too big for the factory ECU to handle. I said you would have to pull fuel. I hope the person who thought I didnt know what I was talking about reads your post and admits they were completely wrong.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Who was that? It's not exactly a hard concept to grasp...

Anyways, I could have sworn the FIC causes hesitation at 0 and below in its maps. So pulling fuel actually works? That means I can stop skewing the MAF!

[Parmas]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Oh ya. On my first start up the car would barely run. My wide band was pegged at 10:1. Most of my new fuel map is pulling duty cycle back with negative percentages. I am running positive percentages in high boost. The FIC actually zeros out (no intervention) at about 2 psi of boost. At idle its negative 27%

I think you must precise more this post when saying " I am running positive percentages in high boost". How much positive and how much boost?

Running low AFRs are not very good to the engine. Excess fuel tend to mix with engine oil and you can see it dirty after 2 runs already. Running dirty oil mixed with fuel tend to make flash marks on the cylinder bores due too low lubrication to the piston rings. Also turbo bearings tend to fail earlier because of this. I am mentioning this from experience so prevent running the engine like this.

Do you have an upgraded fuel pressure regulator? With the regulator you can reduce fuel pressure and equalizing fuel ratios (although I don't know how the stock ecu reacts having it installed)

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by Parmas

I think you must precise more this post when saying " I am running positive percentages in high boost". How much positive and how much boost?

Do you have an upgraded fuel pressure regulator? With the regulator you can reduce fuel pressure and equalizing fuel ratios (although I don't know how the stock ecu reacts having it installed)

Our cars use a return-less fuel system, it does not have an accessible FPR. The FPR is inside the fuel tank.

[PETERPOOP]

yes, dyno run soon please

[Yoda]

how is your timing? i can send you the tune i got if ya want

[pimp my yaris]

After tuning I am idling at 13.5 to 14:1 afr with the engine warm. When under full throttle my map maintains about 11.5:1 afr. So far its running great and the engine runs very smooth. And Focus, about that hesitation under acceleration I am almost sure its caused by the ignition system and not the FIC. I replaced my spark plugs with a colder heat range and closed the gap very small. This made a huge difference as the spark needs less voltage to jump the smaller gap. I still sometimes have a hesitation but much less often. I think the only way to correct this completely would be better ignition coils. I have heard of boost actually blowing out the spark when more air rushes into the combustion chamber. Have you corrected your hesitation?

[pimp my yaris]

Those are the same maps I use. I pull 2 degrees of timing at high rpm for safety sake. And I think I have the maf clamped at 3.1v. I dont actually have any zeros in my fuel map. Around 2 psi the numbers switch from negative to positive percentages.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

Those are the same maps I use. I pull 2 degrees of timing at high rpm for safety sake. And I think I have the maf clamped at 3.1v. I dont actually have any zeros in my fuel map. Around 2 psi the numbers switch from negative to positive percentages.

You might have a little knock when it gets hot. My timing is pulled by like 6 I think. My maf is clamped around the same

[pimp my yaris]

Turned up the hairdryer a little! A couple of days ago I went from 7psi to 8.5! Its a nice kick in the pants. I can really her that thing screaming now.

[PETERPOOP]

Nice. I've been running mine at 8.5-9lbs. Love it. Hope it don't blow soon. ;)