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Old 06-24-2010, 12:11 AM   #37
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oh wow that is extreme, thanks for showing that.
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:20 AM   #38
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I agree that cdydjded's kit could be better looking but you can't argue performance. Better piping = spool faster = better overall kit.

I would worry more about the fact that we're crazy enough to boost an econo box before worrying about what cdydjded's kit will look like when the hood is popped =)
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:03 AM   #39
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+1
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:19 AM   #40
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LOL np, I like the kid, but its like were two different people. There are ricers and then there are wrenchers and he argues that his piping is more efficient and produces more power everytime.

Hahah also theres a kid on my forums, that stresses backpurging of welds when he was making manifolds and downpipes, that it will severely make his kit a better overall kit.

Honestly, as long as it is a nice functional well thought out kit, you can just powdercoat crap yourself later....
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:12 PM   #41
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Wow, this thread expanded quick. I am in need of fixing my front end before i get a kit. I will see how soon i can get this done.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdydjded View Post
Racer: beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. There is a reason my kit looks like it does & Zage's kit looks the way it looks. I cant speak for Zage's reasoning for their design so Ill just explain mine.

1 When I designed my kit I took in account the amount of bends the I/C will have. I made the kit to have the least amount of bends. For example, the inlet pipe on the compressor side, my kit has 2 bends, Zage has 3.

2 The routing I use does not interfere with the ground clearance of the car. For example, Zage routes their pipes under the car, I dont.

3 I designed the kit to have a minimal amount of 90 degree bends. Example look a the pipe by the throttle body on the Zage kit, an immediate 90 degree, look @ mine 45 degree.

4 My turbo has the cold side toward the passenger side & the hot side towards the
driver side. That was done so my downpipe would be a 90 degree bend out & 2.5" in diameter. Zage is completely opposite of mine. Their downpipe is c shaped then 90 degree & 2.0" diameter.

So what Im stating here is I thought out very well what I was doing. And I feel my designed beats Zage's designed by 10 folds. But thats only my 2 cents.......
I agree your design is ultimately better than Zage's. I personally want a kit exactly like Garm's turbo kit but built for a t25. My goal is more power, but I'm not looking for the most power. I just have an idea of how I want my car to be and that's that. If I have to custom make piping I will. It would be nice to see you sell the kit with an ems that is pre-tuned, good luck and I hope you do build enough interest int he kit. It would be nice to see the yaris more popular in the tuning community. If I had to choose I would probably choose yours over the zage, but in reality I'm going to just build my own.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:08 PM   #43
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Thanks for you compliments. What is you HP goal? It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned. The reason being the different temperature, elevation & humidity in different parts of the US. A car tuned in Miami were the humidity is also in the 90 to 100% range will not perform the same in the dry heat of Arizona for example.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:11 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus1155 View Post
Honestly, as long as it is a nice functional well thought out kit, you can just powdercoat crap yourself later....
Exactly!! A little splash of color goes a long way or if your into the look you could polish the piping.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:13 PM   #45
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Thanks for you compliments. What is you HP goal? It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned. The reason being the different temperature, elevation & humidity in different parts of the US. A car tuned in Miami were the humidity is also in the 90 to 100% range will not perform the same in the dry heat of Arizona for example.
No it will act differently but will give a decent starting point for tuning.
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:57 AM   #46
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YW...that was my main point, it would be nice to have some sort of base tune to go off of. My goal HP is 140-145whp. I'm worried anything over that will start causing major damage in the engine, mainly in the winter when you get boost creep, but maybe I'm wrong?
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:12 AM   #47
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See racer, this is a common misconception among a lot of people saying that the engine cannot handle the power, and everyone I have seen that say this has not had a proper tune done to their vehicle. You need to make sure the thing is reacting safely before you drive it. 10* of KR is not safe LMAO.

Look at Chinos car, got it tuned, and it has never driven better with proper AFR and everything.

On a side note I just burnt my face off using this new lotion at my tanning salon
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:12 PM   #48
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you guys are impossible
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:49 PM   #49
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Quote:
It makes little sense to sell my kit with the AEM FIC pre tuned.
It makes the most sense.

It may not perform the same, but many turbo kits come with a pre-loaded map and management. At least the car will start and can be driven to the tuner's shop, instead of being towed.

So you can strongly recommend that the customer tune the car after a successful install in your instructions, do all the necessary disclaimers, and still provide your map that works on your car.

I don't understand the resistance to providing a complete product that will just need some local tweaking.
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:09 PM   #50
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I think someone should tune the kit in a 70* temp at mid height above sea level at average humidity, then you could really say it wouldn't matter that much. I would definitely insist on a pretune map on my ems, otherwise it's no different then building your own kit.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:27 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
It makes the most sense.

It may not perform the same, but many turbo kits come with a pre-loaded map and management. At least the car will start and can be driven to the tuner's shop, instead of being towed.

So you can strongly recommend that the customer tune the car after a successful install in your instructions, do all the necessary disclaimers, and still provide your map that works on your car.

I don't understand the resistance to providing a complete product that will just need some local tweaking.
Ok fine, If I sell a kit with a AEM FIC Ill install a base map. No big deal. BTW if you install my kit with or without the AEM FIC the car is drivable from the first moment. It will not have to be towed to the tuner shop. If you stay out of boost the car will run like it did not have a kit. If you get into boost the car will just run lean.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:44 PM   #52
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ok fine, done with that.

am I waiting for you or are you waiting for me?
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:15 PM   #53
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One quick question to Carlos (or if Garm knows too), will the kit still be selling for $2500?
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:50 PM   #54
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ok fine, done with that.

am I waiting for you or are you waiting for me?
Umm not sure, I sent you the list parts, did you get it? Also by any chance do you still have the GT25 you used when you first boosted the car?
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