2018 Yaris SE 5MT - T-Sport w/Valvematic!

[3cyltrbo]

So sorry to hear of your mom passing.

When my dad passed 4 years ago, I spent alot of time in the garage tinkering on stuff in the days and weeks after.

For me, I found that I could be in a totally different place emotionally when I was in the calmness of the garage. Laying on my back under a car and tinkering, really helped me.

I must have made 25 adjustments back and forth to the rear suspension in my Yaris........ just subconsciously keeping myself focused on something other than the lost loved one.

As far as the swap, hopefully you get it sorted in order to take advantage of our too short summer season.

Cheers

Will

[atomic_hoji]

Appreciate the kind words, thanks Will. I find the same thing, that tinkering has been a good way to keep distracted from other things; have definitely been occupied with troubleshooting the lean condition - I think I've pulled the battery in and out about a dozen times going after various sensors, etc.. lol. We've also kept busy doing family activities together, which has been good.

Summer too short? It's already starting in May and will stay hot until September!

Am looking forward to having it run reliably. My 1981 Toyota truck with a 1987 22RE swapped in took a fresh battery, didn't start, I kicked the F* out of the starter, and she runs - always runs for me.. FJC is the same way. Just don't have the trust with the Yaris yet. Apparently the rule of not messing with the daily driver was supposed to apply to cars as it did with my trucks, so my wife says now..

Never-the-less, did make progress - dumped the fuel tank to a jerry can, as much as would siphon out, and added a dozen liters of fresh fuel. The misfires have cleared now, but still lean. Running through fuel, air, spark as usual...

Can't imagine fuel is still a problem. Fuel is fresh(er), and being delivered; other 2ZR swaps haven't upgraded the fuel pump, so I don't imagine I'm starving the injectors; could be weak power to injectors if it was wiring.. maybe? Or maybe still just poor quality fuel.

Air: there's too much of it, lol. I've clamped up the exhaust leak good and tight now (no smell, fumes, 'smoke' etc.. detectable), and chased all the lines downstream of the MAF for in leakage - can't find anything. MAF checks out resistance measurement wise, but still wondering if the Cold Air Intake is causing issue due to differing diameters - the diameter narrows at the MAF in order to avoid the issue, but again, maybe the FAE is more picky? Throttle body makes some weird noises, but seems to operate open and closed when in the ON position.

Spark: doesn't seem to be an issue, as it runs, but then maybe a weak spark if the wiring is causing an issue? Haven't put too much weight on the spark, but open to suggestions.

Waiting on a Techstream compatible cable to arrive from an online order. Once I have it and get it setup I'll get a 2-day subscription over a weekend and run through the workshop manual troubleshooting that requires Techstream - it will be able to run sensor and component tests beyond resistance and voltage measurements that I can do currently.

So far, I'm boggled.

I DID, however, get my Mishimoto Fan Controller installed and wired up - was actually fairly straight forward, and I actually used some jumpers in the main Junction Box to keep the factory fan connector in place; once again, if I have to pull the whole sh-bang, there's no modification to the factory Yaris harness.

-- Adam

[atomic_hoji]

Quick update: replaced MAF with a proper one (as opposed to the cheap, online purchase via chinese market); disconnected the fuel line and used the fuel pump to empty the tank this time and put 10L premium (did some testing) and added another 10L regular fuel in; did another check of all possible air in-leakage points... OBD2 scanner shows fuel trim is now more toward too rich v. too lean.. but at least the codes are all clear.

Took it for a longer test drive out some county roads and around a good 'test' loop - nice place to open a car up a bit and power around a curvy industrial road. Engine seems to run well for the most part - exhaust definitely needs to get welded, god what a noise.. lol

Bigger concern with it now is that when I was going around a long, left-hand bend in the road there's a rough noise, almost a growl - reminds me of an out of balance or too much angle on a driveshaft, e.g. when a truck gets lifted.. wondering if either I've dinked installing an axle shaft or if the engine or exhaust is being bumped against the frame/body and causing a vibration.

Oh, and the slip light stays on all the time - guessing due to the difference in 2016 ABS/VSC/TRAC system vs. the 2018 TSS-C system; or iM v. Yaris and they don't want to talk..?

Received my techstream cable in the mail during the week and got the software installed. Didn't purchase a subscription for this weekend as I was away a good portion of the weekend. Will try this upcoming weekend and see what I can play with!

Progress..
-- Adam

[tmontague]

Fwiw my car has always had fuel trims showing too rich (approx 10%) ever since I got a custom exhaust made, even back when I had my 1nz, and I have no exhaust leaks.

The noise you are hearing on corners could be axle bind and chances are it would be more violent. Turn sharper and see what happens to see if it gets worse

[DarkShadowFox]

why does your engine bay look burned . - .

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox

why does your engine bay look burned . - .

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Fwiw my car has always had fuel trims showing too rich (approx 10%) ever since I got a custom exhaust made, even back when I had my 1nz, and I have no exhaust leaks.

The noise you are hearing on corners could be axle bind and chances are it would be more violent. Turn sharper and see what happens to see if it gets worse

Hmm.. well that's good to keep in mind, thanks for the tidbit!

I was reading (and re-reading) last night and went back through your thread on using the Tercel axle to solve the bind problem - which is awesome clever btw.. I took the car out again today and gave a good swerve back and forth. Seems to be only when turning left, but sounds like it's on the right side - which would be the long-side (passenger) axle, not the driver side as you found. Over-extending the passenger side? I doubt I'm tire rubbing as I"m stock height suspension and stock wheel & tire setup. I had also thought the brakes were just coated with rust and such from sitting, but confirmed today that it has a constant vibration in the brake pedal under braking. The noise when turning isn't very loud or bang like, more like a growl... On the drive the CEL/MIL and TRAC OFF lights both came on. I did a bit of searching and, not surprisingly like much of the iM parts, the brake actuator is iM specific; not shared with Yaris or even the Corolla sedan. They communicated via CAN bus, and the being the Yaris brake actuator wired to the Yaris speed sensors, etc.. they're happy, but I wonder if the brake actuator is getting garbage from the ECM and vice versa.. Will have to see.

Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox

why does your engine bay look burned . - .

+1 Not sure what you mean by burnt.. The yellow-orange dis-colouration is the oil "under" (all over) coating. It's a waxy oil coating and is tacky and nasty to work in the engine bay - living in the salt belt it will be good for the car in the long run, but it is a p.i.t.a when wrenching.

-- Adam

[DarkShadowFox]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

Hmm.. well that's good to keep in mind, thanks for the tidbit!

I was reading (and re-reading) last night and went back through your thread on using the Tercel axle to solve the bind problem - which is awesome clever btw.. I took the car out again today and gave a good swerve back and forth. Seems to be only when turning left, but sounds like it's on the right side - which would be the long-side (passenger) axle, not the driver side as you found. Over-extending the passenger side? I doubt I'm tire rubbing as I"m stock height suspension and stock wheel & tire setup. I had also thought the brakes were just coated with rust and such from sitting, but confirmed today that it has a constant vibration in the brake pedal under braking. The noise when turning isn't very loud or bang like, more like a growl... On the drive the CEL/MIL and TRAC OFF lights both came on. I did a bit of searching and, not surprisingly like much of the iM parts, the brake actuator is iM specific; not shared with Yaris or even the Corolla sedan. They communicated via CAN bus, and the being the Yaris brake actuator wired to the Yaris speed sensors, etc.. they're happy, but I wonder if the brake actuator is getting garbage from the ECM and vice versa.. Will have to see.



+1 Not sure what you mean by burnt.. The yellow-orange dis-colouration is the oil "under" (all over) coating. It's a waxy oil coating and is tacky and nasty to work in the engine bay - living in the salt belt it will be good for the car in the long run, but it is a p.i.t.a when wrenching.

-- Adam

my manual said "wax coating applied to engine bay" that must be the "WAX" coating they are talking about.


also cant you just mount up the IM brake actuator thing to the... yeah

heres what you can do when thats happening is like. run it, run an OBD2 scanner while driving see if it throws any codes. I think. I'm an armchair mechanic.

[atomic_hoji]

My guess is that's what they meant by wax coating then, ya... the shop that did mine got a little carried away I think - it's supposed to be a nice, thin coating, not a globular mess.. lol

Already started shopping for an iM brake actuator, BUT ... before getting too far down that rabbit hole, I checked and the connectors on the Yaris and the iM are completely different; would mean needing to find a connector and terminals and re-wire my Yaris body harness - do-able, but think it needs some troubleshooting and thought first. Also wondering with the change in 2017 to the Corolla iM with TSS-C is the 2017 ECM would play better with the Yaris' brake actuator..

Going to pull the brake actuator connector, fire it up, and see how she behaves without any brake control/assistance. My FJC is a 2007, which is pre-disable VSC/TRAC capability. I found if you pull the ABS sensor on the brake actuator it goes into "I don't know what to do, so I'll do nothing, throw a bunch of lights, and just act like a normal, non-ABS brake system" mode. Figure it's worth a try with the Yaris and see if the brake stutter goes away, hopefully the growl as well, as it would mean the brake actuator is mis-behaving and nothing mechanically is wrong.

There's a solution to this problem... it just needs to be found.

-- Adam

[atomic_hoji]

(Un)fortunately?! the solution is not the brake actuator - dis-connected it and the drive is the exact same, although has a vast number more lights on the dash, lol.

CEL/MIL is on and officially running too rich - LTFT is at 30%! And exhaust has soot build-up; it's like having a diesel again. Also threw a code about MAF out of range...

Path forward I think is when I yank the battery to re-connect the brake actuator I'm going to pull the wiring on the O2 sensor out and have an inspection, maybe cut out the sketchy heat-shrink, built-in solder mess and crimp and seal a new connection on those wires. Going to put the front back up on jackstands, pull the wheels and go over everything again.. see if there's signs of rubbing.. check the axles are back in and seated, etc..

With having everything disconnected there's a good chance the alignment is out of whack... I figured it'd be alright, at least in the short term. Anyone heard of alignment being out of whack causing a growl / vibration under braking and steering?

Hot smell of (what I assume) is exhaust and undercoating is also sketchy feeling.. lol

Finding out what is not the problem is progress still, right?

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

30% LTFT is insane man, definitely not good.

The MAF input to the ECM is extremely important on these cars since thats our only air measurement device.

The only time ive ever seen MAF codes is when its unplugged, or electrically shorted. check the sensor inside the MAF, and check the voltage reading the ECM is receiving.

[CrankyOldMan]

What did you do to wire in the MAF power? The xD harness uses a different pin than the Yaris and the connector is different.

[atomic_hoji]

Hey, thanks for the replies guys.

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

30% LTFT is insane man, definitely not good.
The MAF input to the ECM is extremely important on these cars since thats our only air measurement device.
The only time ive ever seen MAF codes is when its unplugged, or electrically shorted. check the sensor inside the MAF, and check the voltage reading the ECM is receiving.

I didn't actually verify the measurement checks on the new MAF... I'll do that, and do some other checks as you mentioned, thanks Tom. Ya, the ECM for the iM won't even let the car start without the MAF plugged in - found that out by accident, lol.

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

What did you do to wire in the MAF power? The xD harness uses a different pin than the Yaris and the connector is different.

So the Yaris uses a dedicated power from the main JB to the MAF, which I left the wires and connector in place for the Yaris and just tucked it aside. The iM main engine harness has all the wires direct from the ECM, except 12V power which comes from the connector that goes to the main JB. On the iM the line supplying the MAF is shared back with the ECM +B +B2 and the canister pump, so I tapped the 12V supply that goes to the AFR and purge solenoid, figuring it could handle the current. I've been suspecting that there's too much noise or something on that line, but with the cheap MAF having the paint rub off and the cover disconnecting it was easier to blame - was hoping I wouldn't have to cut and resolder... Think it's time to run a dedicated 12V line for the MAF.

Other suspect wiring is the O2 sensor, however the codes being thrown are connected to the AFR sensor, not the O2 sensor - to be honest I'm not really sure what the O2 sensor does on these cars... lol

It's weird that after replacing the MAF with a better quality unit that the LTFT went from nearly +30% running lean on the cheap MAF to -30% running rich on the new MAF with no changes to wiring, etc.. But, unfortunately, I may just have to admit that my wiring is questionable.

Again, appreciate the support from everyone! There are some things I'm good with on cars, but then there's plenty I still need to learnify..

-- Adam

[tmontague]

The o2 sensor afaik is essentially there just for emissions/car converter efficiency checks. You are correct that the trim codes are due to a reading performed by the afr sensor. I wouldn't worry too much about the o2 sensor for now. Check for exhaust leaks as well as wiring to the maf

[atomic_hoji]

Thanks for the confirmation; I also agree because the O2 wire repair is on the backside of the Valvematic box, just above the heater line - i.e. huge p.i.t.a. to get at, lol.

Put the car up on jackstands to have a look underneath and see if the vibration, etc.. and found what I strongly suspect is my problem..
<no picture, it's just embarrassing..>
EDIT: Jumped the gun.. with tires on the ground, full range of motion has at least an inch or more of clearance through-out.. suspect that the wear is leftover from test drives without bumper plastics installed. Dammit.. there's nothing (else) obviously rubbing, wrong or untorqued that I can find.

In the progress of opening up my wiring this afternoon - solder really does look fine, I suspect it's unhappy about the power supply being shared with the AFR sensor etc.. My wife's Dad is coming up this weekend, he spent years soldering and repair circuit boards, electronics, etc.. so I'll get him to have a look with me and show me the soldering mojo.

-- Adam

[atomic_hoji]

Quick update - wiring changes made no difference, but hooking the computer up while driving brought to light a couple things. Monitoring STFT and LTFT while driving shows how the STFT is changing under load. With little load it pulls the fuel trim way back, but give it throttle it moves toward neutral (0%). I had the epiphany that the iM demands fuel pump by duty cycle, but the way I've got it setup it is ignoring the duty cycle request and always giving 100%; the ECM asks for x% and the system is ramming 100% to the injectors all the time. Made sense to me anyway..
-- Adam

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

I had the epiphany that the iM demands fuel pump by duty cycle, but the way I've got it setup it is ignoring the duty cycle request and always giving 100%; the ECM asks for x% and the system is ramming 100% to the injectors all the time. Made sense to me anyway..
-- Adam

Makes sense to me that it's pulling fuel then. It's getting too much fuel for the expected injector duty cycle.

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Makes sense to me that it's pulling fuel then. It's getting too much fuel for the expected injector duty cycle.

At least if I'm wrong the problem had us both duped?!

Here's a plot from when I had Techstream running on the weekend.. The Fuel Pump duty request was only about 75% (scale labels are goofy) most of the time - only jumped up to about 90% when I jumped on the throttle some. STFT is all over the place, not surprisingly, but does average out to around 0%'ish... sort of... LTFT (not shown, doesn't change much like STFT) was still -30%, but did jump up and down some. Used a reset Utility to clear all the learned values; even though I had the battery disconnected while I was doing wiring repair, the LTFT was still way off. I'm sure a bad learned value isn't helping the cause.

TS-2ZR_run.jpg

Have queries in to a couple of online places to see what the price new is for a Fuel Pump Control ECU is; will also need the connector, which is ~$10 or so, and hope I have terminals to use with it.. if not, it's time to Hodge Podge Bodge the bugger.. In all honesty, I think proper FPC should help sort out the fuel trim. Was hoping my clever fuel pump bypass had solved the problem, but seems like it will just end up running overly rich and likely have terrible fuel economy if I leave it this way.

Also dropped the exhaust and notched the flange where it was rubbing the body - not perfect, but a dramatic reduction in the nasty vibration when steering left. When I drop it again to weld the repair piece in I'll round out a bit more off the flange and see if I can 'clearance' the tunnel slightly - yes, I mean use a hammer...

-- Adam