Oil Filter Concerns

[Calrenman]

Just lurking on this thread. I have seen some Cut away oil filter videos and the inconsistency of fram shocked me, Pleating, glue and rust problems... yipes.
I use the wix, 51393XP full synthetic filter. It is larger than "stock size" with more filter surface and ads a bit of volume to the oil supply (~10-15%). $11.00 filter for a $4.000.00 engine. I will play those odds. I do use the supertech 10,000 oil from wallyworld with no problems. SAE is SAE! One the light goes on at 5,000 the oil gets changed!
I will not mess with filters or oil because cam phasers/ adjustable cams need clean oil!

[mitch9521]

Originally Posted by Calrenman

Just lurking on this thread. I have seen some Cut away oil filter videos and the inconsistency of fram shocked me, Pleating, glue and rust problems... yipes.
I use the wix, 51393XP full synthetic filter. It is larger than "stock size" with more filter surface and ads a bit of volume to the oil supply (~10-15%). $11.00 filter for a $4.000.00 engine. I will play those odds. I do use the supertech 10,000 oil from wallyworld with no problems. SAE is SAE! One the light goes on at 5,000 the oil gets changed!
I will not mess with filters or oil because cam phasers/ adjustable cams need clean oil!

I exclusively run Mobil 1 full synthetic(No dino crap) in my vehicles. Usually change the Yaris around 4-5k miles and my F150 around 3k cause it sits alot.

WIX is top notch, ive actually switched to their filters exclusively now.

[Calrenman]

Originally Posted by mitch9521

I exclusively run Mobil 1 full synthetic(No dino crap) in my vehicles. Usually change the Yaris around 4-5k miles and my F150 around 3k cause it sits alot.

WIX is top notch, ive actually switched to their filters exclusively now.

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

[mitch9521]

Originally Posted by Calrenman

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

As would any sane person. lol

[Neinris]

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.

[Calrenman]

Large oil filters for 2015 Yaris hatchback.

I have used both and prefer the Wix.

3/4 inlet (center) Threads unknown matched by sight and comparison.

Large oil filters K&N HP-2005/ Wix XP- 51393XP

Originally Posted by Neinris

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and Mobil 1 oil filter.
Has anyone tried using a slightly longer oil filter?
I looked underneath and it doesn't seem like it would hit the filter first if for any reason the vehicle were to bottoms out.
Would the 90915-YZZD3 fit the Yaris? It seems to be 1/4 of the size longer than the 90915-YZZF2.

[bronsin]

Originally Posted by mitch9521

As would any sane person. lol

[bronsin]

Originally Posted by Calrenman

I only use the Synthetic oil. That is the oil our engines were designed for. Dino very bad! Too much wax/ tar build up for the VVT

My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.

[Calrenman]

Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!

Originally Posted by bronsin

My wife’s 20 year old Camry just hit 200,000 miles and shows no signs of quitting. Never had synthetic oil, not a drop. Never had larger oil filters. Had frame oil filters maybe 25% of the time.

Wax and tar build up? The VVT works just fine. Thanks very much.
Just how many of these engines have you disassembled and inspected? Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah, I’ll wager!

You’ve been had my friend. You’re spending about twice as much on oil as you need to. You change the oil in your car because of contamination resulting from the combustion of fossil fuel. Whether the oil is synthetic or not, it’s still needs to be changed.

But if you were happy, that’s all that matters I guess.

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by Calrenman

Your motor your gamble. Good Luck.

Toyotas are not an engine I would take apart to play with.

My geo was in frame rebuild then top end rebuild. It still had faint cross hatching all the way around the cylinder when I put rings in it, in other words low wear. I will stick with the synthetics, that is my experience!

ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway

[Calrenman]

Before the valve burned my compression was high normal before the oil test to check the rings with little Slight raise after the ring test.

The motor in the Geo had 100 k on it. My V8s ised to smooth at certain place in the cylinder I think it was top and bottom center and outsid but I ran the piss out of those moters (350 chevy).
Toyota is not what they were in the 90 or early 2000s. Sorry you were burned.

Originally Posted by sh0rtlife

ive been inside mine..cause toyota fucked up and failed to torque the timing chain guides down FROM THE FACTORY and the dealers all blamed the noise on other things till it was out of warrenty

fwiw cross hatching life comes down to 3 things run time/milage, heat consistancy and overall ring seal/wear

in other words..sloppy rings will never get rid of the hatching, low run time wont wear it either and an engine that never gets too hot or too cold will also never wear it out..ive taken apart 100k mile 70s v8s that still had faint hatching ive taken apart ones with 30k that were slick as a mirror...the oil used has NOTHING to do with cyl wear...oil only has a genuine effect on bearing surfaces..the cyl's are scraped clean every stroke..besides unless youve got an engine wiht oil sprayers little oil gets in there anyway