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08-16-2009, 01:55 PM | #37 |
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Do you have an aftermarket stereo system with an amplifier? You definitely have something that is drawing more current than normal with the car off.
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08-16-2009, 02:19 PM | #38 |
Drives: Black HB Join Date: Oct 2008
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I have nothing aftermarket except the guages. That's why I thought at first it was them. But all the gauges together don't draw more than 90mA. They were trying to say that the way I had them hooked up caused damage to the ECU, which is the biggest load of crap I've ever heard. I have them hooked up to the stereo constant 12v, acc power, and ground. Seriously, how could that possibly damage the ECU?
I need to figure out how to prove that the gauges didn't cause ECU damage or they won't fix it under warranty.
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08-16-2009, 02:34 PM | #39 |
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OK. In that case, put your ammeter in line and start pulling fuses, one at a time, until you figure out what circuit the excess draw is on. Pull one, note the change (if any) put it back and pull the next one. Go through all of the under hood ones, the couple in the under dash panel (by the relays) and the load in the way under dash panel.
Another way of measuring individual circuits is to pull a fuse and then use the ammeter as the fuse. That will let you measure the draw of that one circuit. |
08-16-2009, 02:44 PM | #40 |
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That is pretty ingenious. That's why you are the ee and im still taking classes online lol.
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08-16-2009, 03:27 PM | #41 |
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The funny thing is that I think as I type. I was 3/4 of the way through the first part and then suddenly the light went on.
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08-16-2009, 11:44 PM | #42 |
Drives: Black HB Join Date: Oct 2008
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some of the fuses i couldn't get to under the hood. more specifically the two red ones that are kinda covered by the headlight. i could get the fuses out, but couldnt get my test leads down into the slots. I'll have to get a couple of paper clips or something tomorrow.
would you be so kind as to join me on my endeavor and measure your current draws so i have some numbers to compare to? at the moment i only have two numbers: dome: approx 90mA ecu-b: approx 170mA <--doesnt seem right
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08-17-2009, 12:11 AM | #43 |
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Same - 88 mA for Dome and 157.5 mA for ECU-B.
This seems correct, as Dome keeps the radio memory alive and ECU-B keeps all of the ECU's alive (ECM, SRS, etc). |
08-17-2009, 12:13 AM | #44 |
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By the way, here's an easier way to get the ammeter on - Pop a fuse and use it. I popped a spare 10A (with a set of clip leads and a battery). The legs are brought out to the tiny holes on top, so you can just touch your lead tips there.
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08-17-2009, 10:51 AM | #45 |
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i was thinking that yesterday evening, but it just seems like such a waste of a fuse...
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08-17-2009, 11:20 AM | #46 |
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I pulled about 20 out of my ebay Yaris, so I had plenty to spare. Think of it as a tool, and you won't feel so bad about cooking one.
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08-23-2009, 09:03 PM | #47 |
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the one day i finally get some down time to figure this thing out, it rains.
awesome.
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09-11-2009, 11:32 PM | #48 |
boydstir
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when my car sits for a week without driving the battery is dead completely no ignition lights or click when key is turned on yes i am running dual amps and other things how do i test the draw at the battery i did not think the newer amps used power when the car is shut off ? am i wrong i run arc audio amps not cheap shit but maybe they are drawing down my power ? i have a optima yellow top now but i still want to track my voltage draw problem i leave town for weeks at a time and store my car in a building and i should not have to leave it on a charger at all just to keep a charge in the battery please help me someone
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09-12-2009, 08:00 AM | #49 | |
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Quote:
If you have a meter that can measure current, you disconnect the negative battery terminal and put one meter lead on the battery post, the other on the terminal (so the meter is in between). The other option is to use a clamp on ammeter, which doesn't require removing the battery terminal. |
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09-12-2009, 10:21 AM | #50 |
boydstir
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cool thanks for the info
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