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#1 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 08 yaris Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 51
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cut springs
so I'm cheep! in the past i would heat the coils at the base of the spring. this lets the second coil drop an inch onto the bottom coil. lowers the car about 2 inches and stops further dropping later. this time i think I'll cut them to get the drop and stiffen them some. has anyone done this? any idea of amount of drop?
also is there a way to stiffen the front sway bar? i have a TRD rear one but would like to tighten up the front a bit? i don't see an oversize front bar. thanks larry |
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#2 |
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Pirate Yaaaaris
Drives: '00 Toyota Celica GTS 6MT Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 573
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I'm telling you this as honestly and considerately as I can.
THAT IS A HORRIBLE IDEA. DO NOT NOW NOR UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES CUT SPRINGS. I got my TRD springs for less than $100 and popped 'em in myself. Dropped the car nearly 2 full inches, and maintains the safety and stability it originally came with, not to mention you'll get laughed out of the dealership should you need any warranty work. Dropped stock springs will literally do nothing good for handling. Yes, it'll sit lower but they'll still be softer, you'll bottom out more, and the other handling upgrades you may have such as the TRD rear torsion bar will be negated or at the very least, not used to their full potential. Take that with a one-ton grain of salt. If you choose to proceed, go right ahead. But to my knowledge, nobody here has just flat cut the stock springs. -SAV
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Georgia Bulldogs! ![]() '09 Yaris LB 5MT Sold. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 977
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i wont be so considerate. keep your ideas to yourself.
hahaha...that's funny...cutting springs. wow, that's some back yard BS there. now, in order to lower a car, you need to get lowering springs....not some re-engineered wishing it was cheaper...wanna-be, spring cuttin round here. |
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#4 |
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I'm not into suspension work at all, but I do know this:
Cutting your springs is a horrible idea.
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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#5 |
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Talk about dum ideas, and being cheap don't do it, look on ebay or just go to Microimageonline.com for set of spring instead
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#6 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 08 yaris Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 51
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gee , is do it your self dead? I'm a bit old school . i don't hotrod with a credit card.
in case anyone cares cutting a coil spring will increase it's stiffness. |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '07 Yaris turbo, '11 Juke Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 849
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No it won't. It just has less material to compress so you think the stiffness has increased.
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3875996 |
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#8 |
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Pirate Yaaaaris
Drives: '00 Toyota Celica GTS 6MT Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 573
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Cutting a coil spring decreases the amount of travel you have from top to bottom. That's ALL it does. The metal doesn't get stiffer, the coils aren't wound any tighter, and the only thing that increases is the bounciness of the ride and the scrapes on the bottom of your car.
Being old school /= being cheap and dangerous with modifications. I'm TELLING you, even a set of brand new properly manufactured lowering springs will be less than $200, and much less THAN THAT if you buy used or shop around sensibly. You can honor your "old school DIY" part by putting them in yourself. Easy as pie, took me less than 2 hours. I'll even be nice and post some before and afters: Stock springs: ![]() TRD springs: ![]() And the TRD springs have since settled and dropped another half inch on top of that! But hey, you're gonna do what you're gonna do, however asinine and ill-advised it is. -SAV
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Georgia Bulldogs! ![]() '09 Yaris LB 5MT Sold. |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 08 yaris Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 51
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nice car! I'm not looking for that much drop. maybe an inch . I'll post some pic's when it warms up enough to work on the car. if i don't like the results then i'll buy some aftermarket springs. most of my cars are ongoing projects , my buggy started out as a 1959 VW , it's been revised a FEW times since i built it in 1976.
heres a link if y'all want to play with spring rates. http://www.swayaway.com/calculators/...alc.php#step10 |
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#10 |
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ヤリスワールド
Drives: 2008 HB Join Date: May 2010
Location: seattle
Posts: 380
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Used lowering springs would be very cheap and and much wiser way to go...last guys I know who "cut/heated" springs were guys I know from the 60s who did this because they had no other option now that they do ,all will say don't cut or heat .
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#11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: it is kinda stock Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: united states
Posts: 1,258
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if u like hearing a loud "bong" noise on every bump you hit then do it. me im more into other types of bongs though
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Scion FRS RS2, ‘21 Crosstrek Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,729
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Quote:
Regarding tightening the front end. A stiffer front bar will do the opposite. Some guys here are disconnecting the front sway-bar for auto-cross to get more front bite. There are also 22mm rear swaybars available which will tighten the front end more the the 19mm bar (TRD is 19mm). MicroImage has the 22mm Ultra (discribed as being for track use) as well as the 19mm Ultra street bar. Plenty here use the 22mm version for street and love it. I may even add one to my tuning inventory.
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots.
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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If you're looking for cheap performance, you should also look into reducing weight. . .
Start with the interior panels you don't need, then the dash, the seats, seat belts, airbags, headliner, stereo, spare tire, A/C, and power steering. To match the sheer awesome of your cut springs, you should also remove the headlights, tail lights, mirrors, the steering wheel, master cylinder, brakes, fans, fluids, coolant, doors, wheels (unsprung weight FTL), hood, hatch, transmission, oh and the engine too.
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The best modification you can make is between the steering wheel and driver's seat. |
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#14 |
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hook em
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lol at all you nay sayers. i didnt cut my stock springs but i did CUT my tanabes, AND my skunk2s. DUN DUN DUN. I dont scrape anymore than any other lowered car. Ive had this done for over 2 years and no problems. i even track my car with them. so call it "backyard bs" if you want, i call it INGENUITY.
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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 NCP91 5spd Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Thailand
Posts: 449
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^ if you want to look slammed. . . I could understand that. But saying that it stiffens the springs and improves performance is like "performance" blinker fluid.
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The best modification you can make is between the steering wheel and driver's seat. |
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#16 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 08 yaris Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 51
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springs
Quote:
the next step is wider stock wheels with hubcaps and cutting the stock muffler open to put in a glass-pack. |
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#17 |
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hook em
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i believe i cut them about an inch. you can always start by cutting 1/2" and if you want more then cut more. idk stock spring rates but tanabes are 2.2 rear and skunk2s are 6.2. i say go for it. and if for some reason you mess up or dont like it pm me. i still have my stock springs that you can have if you pay for shipping. theyre just taking up space
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#18 | |
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CLIFF
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Quote:
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