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Old 08-30-2014, 04:17 PM   #127
spookybathtub
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
Make sure your vent is clear as well. The transmission has a vent on it to allow for the expansion of the oil/air inside. Otherwise the seals have to deal with the pressure and will eventually fail. These vents often clog, and mine was plugged when I got the car with 38000km on it. A good indicator it is plugged is you will hear a hiss of air as you open the fill plug.
Cory, how did you clean the vent? When I removed the filler plug, some air hissed out, so apparently my vent is clogged. From the photo you posted, I can't figure out where it is. Is the vent a bolt, or simply a hole? Can it be cleaned with a squirt of compressed air?
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:42 PM   #128
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I wouldn't mind knowing where that vent is either. I have changed my trans oil at 87,000km when I got my Yaris but will be doing it again before the winter as I'm at 122,000km and I want to put synthetic in. I didn't hear any air release the first time I did it but I'd like to check it.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:02 PM   #129
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I looked around yesterday, and I think I found it where Cory labeled in that drawing. After removing the air box, it's visible from the top. It's an aluminum cap about 1/2" diameter and 3/4" tall. It spins freely, and I pulled it off with vise grips. It looked totally clean under the cap, but I blew it off with canned air anyway.
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:19 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
A suggestion to all owners, but specifically while doing this job:

Make sure your vent is clear as well. The transmission has a vent on it to allow for the expansion of the oil/air inside. Otherwise the seals have to deal with the pressure and will eventually fail. These vents often clog, and mine was plugged when I got the car with 38000km on it. A good indicator it is plugged is you will hear a hiss of air as you open the fill plug.

I can't recall exactly where the vent is on these cars. iirc it's just behind the shifter. A little white(?) plastic knob that you twist and wiggle a little to free up any junk.

I'll try to find a picture.

Cheers.

Driving a 2010 Hatchback, 5 door, manual with 80K miles
Came back from the dealer after replacing the axle seal, which showed some leaking. Opened the filling cap and heard the hiss so I am sure I have to clean the vent. Now waiting for the MT-90.

Thanks for all the inside info.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:59 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spookybathtub View Post
I looked around yesterday, and I think I found it where Cory labeled in that drawing. After removing the air box, it's visible from the top. It's an aluminum cap about 1/2" diameter and 3/4" tall. It spins freely, and I pulled it off with vise grips. It looked totally clean under the cap, but I blew it off with canned air anyway.
And now ur gone have to replace it with new ...they are not to be removed ,caps that is ...if stuck spray penetrating fluid free it up clean off with brake clean .
They are also used on the axles on Tacoma and tundra almost all Toyota's .

sent from my S4 on Mars
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:00 PM   #132
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Mine went back on just fine... what's the problem?
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:09 PM   #133
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No problem... Just saying no need to take it apart and risk damage yours may or maybe not ok that's all

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Old 09-16-2014, 09:58 PM   #134
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Found this pdf about multiples oils. Keep in mind is sponsored by AMSOIL. Also ignore the rating at the end. Kind of crappy weighting system.

http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/br...lube_study.pdf
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:36 PM   #135
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Just changed mine. I used RedLine. There is a noticeable difference in shifting.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:46 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry G. View Post
Royal Purple is average stuff at best. Read the technical reviews.
Redline MT-90 is top notch stuff. This is a 15 minute job at worst if you have the right tools. You will notice smoother shifting and that grinding while going into reverse will all but disappear. Its a no brainer especially if you drive 25k miles a year like I do.
If your grinding while shifting into reverse. Learn from your mistakes. Put the car into first gear then shift it in reverse. Grinding is due to the driver most of the time.

Have patience with your car and it will drive smoother.
This was to inform all on how to reduce grinding when shifting into reverse.

This was written respectfully as possible.
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Old 10-25-2015, 07:53 PM   #137
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Just got two quarts of the Redline MT-90 GL-4 Transmission fluid from ebay for $34 shipped. Hopefully it fixes my occasional second gear and reverse gear grind.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:45 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valchrist90731 View Post
If your grinding while shifting into reverse. Learn from your mistakes. Put the car into first gear then shift it in reverse. Grinding is due to the driver most of the time.

Have patience with your car and it will drive smoother.
This was to inform all on how to reduce grinding when shifting into reverse.

This was written respectfully as possible.
I will be as respectful as possible as well. This issue with shifting into reverse with the stock or other conventional fluod is a known issue. Expecting someone to shift into first just to shift into reverse is unacceptable. Telling someone to be patient isn't a cure to the problem. Sure, it is possible that drivers are over anxious to shift, but the issue has even been noted in published reviews. Once again reviewers could be over anxious to shift, but they have experienced many many manual transmissions in most cases so they have firm ground to stand on regarding the behavior. I have driven a few dozen different manuals from various vendors and have experienced this only on well worn transmissions not brand new ones. I had the issue within the first 1000 miles. Changed to synth and bam, resolved. There is a reason why so many manufacturers are switching to even requiring synthetic; it is a much more tolerant and better working lubricant.

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Old 10-28-2015, 10:56 AM   #139
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Just sources some Redline MT-90 from a local store near me for $21 a quart, not too bad a price. I'll be picking it up later this week and putting it in this weekend.

I get a slight quick grind when shifting into reverse in the morning in my driveway and I'm currently running 75w90 synthetic. Not much better than oem just a little thinner in the dead of winter.

I'll leave my thoughts on here once I test it out.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:19 PM   #140
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GL-4 or GL-5 WHat's the difference. What's the verdict on what's best?

Thx
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:58 AM   #141
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GL-4 seems to be what give much smoother shifting over GL-5. I've installed my GL-5 tranny fluid but haven't driven the car to try it out yet.
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Old 11-03-2015, 04:27 PM   #142
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What about Amsoil 75/90? It only comes in GL-5. Any suggestions?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=SVGQT-EA
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #143
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Can transmission fluid just be added at the dipstick entry for auto?

Hi -

I have a 2009 5-door hatchback Yaris.

Thanks for the great DIY instructions and photos - so helpful.

Can I just add the Toyota transmission fluid there? Do I have to drain it? If so, can I drain it from the bottom, the same way as the manual?

Thanks so much!
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Old 03-05-2016, 06:39 PM   #144
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Thanks for this. I bought a 08 Hatchback a few months ago with a 5 speed MT with 65k miles. This was so easy and the shifting is much much smoother now. Only took 20 minutes, and most of it was waiting for the fluid to drain and for the fresh thick gear oil to flow down the tube.
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