Seeking wheel advice from someone who KNOWS

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

How many ten pound wheels do you see here?

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...ar=&sort=Brand

19 pounds is about average for the TYPICAL 15 X 6.5" - 15" X 7" gravity cast aluminum wheel.

Racing wheels tend to bend on bad pavement (e.g. potholes, which our roads are full of). I don't want that. I want a robust wheel that's designed to handle the realities of STREET use.

Oh, I'm 45 and have a degree in mechanical engineering.

Go anything else you want to ask?

I have sub 10lb wheels on our Yaris.

Enkei RPF1s are sub 10lbs if you don't want to spend big $$ on wheels.

a 19lb 15" wheel is insane, i've had 17x8s that were that light.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

...a 19lb 15" wheel is insane, i've had 17x8s that were that light.

It's also TYPICAL for a gravity cast aluminum wheel in that size.

This FORGED 6061-T6 is very strong; check out the robust size and shape of the spokes.

It is designed primarily as a street wheel with the realities of street driving (ruts, potholes, frost-heaves and expansion joints) in mind.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

It's also TYPICAL for a gravity cast aluminum wheel in that size.

This FORGED 6061-T6 is very strong; check out the robust size and shape of the spokes.

It is designed primarily as a street wheel with the realities of street driving (ruts, potholes, frost-heaves and expansion joints) in mind.

so you're saying my 9.9lb wheels will bend if I hit something?

is that a different wheel then the one on the first page?

I'm checking them and they're ugly as sin.

do you like the style? do you like the price?

then buy them, but they are not "light" when compared to the available wheels out there.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

so you're saying my 9.9lb wheels will bend if I hit something?.

Yep, that's what I'm saying.

Any "racing" wheel will bend on roads like those we have here in the Northeast.

I've seen several Enkeis fold like accordians up here.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

Yep, that's what I'm saying.

Any "racing" wheel will bend on roads like those we have here in the Northeast.

I've seen several Enkeis fold like accordians up here.

I don't have enkeis.

So my CCWs will bend on your roads? but they weigh 25lbs for a 17x10?

please help me understand your logic and where your basis of argument is coming from.

by adding more material increasing weight does not automatically make a wheel "stronger" then a lighter counterpart.

I've also seen higher weight wheels bend. Alot of times it's due to the tire pressure being overly low, or the sidewall height being too short for the type of road.

Wheels are designed to bend when an extreme situation happens, it's better for them to bend then break.

by your "weight" standards those 17" centerlines wouldn't put up to squat. So what makes you think their 15" version is worth anything? because the website said so? :lol:

I feel spoke design (less spacing between spokes), proper sidewall height, proper tire pressure, and as much as safe pothole avoidance is going to save your wheels more then adding 2lbs of metal somewhere.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

I don't have enkeis.

So my CCWs will bend on your roads? but they weigh 25lbs for a 17x10?

please help me understand your logic and where your basis of argument is coming from.

by adding more material increasing weight does not automatically make a wheel "stronger" then a lighter counterpart.

I've also seen higher weight wheels bend. Alot of times it's due to the tire pressure being overly low, or the sidewall height being too short for the type of road.

Wheels are designed to bend when an extreme situation happens, it's better for them to bend then break.

by your "weight" standards those 17" centerlines wouldn't put up to squat. So what makes you think their 15" version is worth anything? because the website said so? :lol:

I feel spoke design (less spacing between spokes), proper sidewall height, proper tire pressure, and as much as safe pothole avoidance is going to save your wheels more then adding 2lbs of metal somewhere.

I'm telling you that any "RACING" wheel isn't designed for STREET use.

Period.

That's because the barrel sections and the spoke sections are much thinner than what would be considered appropriate for STREET use.

Race tracks are SMOOTH, so thinner walls (which means lighter weight) are OK there.

Those Centerlines are thick-walled, FORGED 6061-T6 wheels.

They are MUCH stronger than any thin walled, cast wheel.

6061-T6's mechanical properties (e.g. yield strength) blow away the properties of cast aluminums.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6061_aluminum

Compare those propertied to A356 aluminum, which is the most common aluminum used in cast wheels:

http://www.mse.mtu.edu/classes/my413...inum/a356.html

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

I'm telling you that any "RACING" wheel isn't designed for STREET use.

Period.

That's because the barrel sections and the spoke sections are much thinner than what would be considered appropriate for STREET use.

Race tracks are SMOOTH, so thinner walls (which means lighter weight) are OK there.

question...

what makes a wheel a "racing" wheel? are AMERICAN RACING wheels RACING wheels because their name has RACING in it?

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

I'm telling you that any "RACING" wheel isn't designed for STREET use.

Period.

That's because the barrel sections and the spoke sections are much thinner than what would be considered appropriate for STREET use.

Race tracks are SMOOTH, so thinner walls (which means lighter weight) are OK there.

Those Centerlines are thick-walled, FORGED 6061-T6 wheels.

They are MUCH stronger than any thin walled, cast wheel.

6061-T6's mechanical properties (e.g. yield strength) blow away the properties of cast aluminums.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6061_aluminum

Compare those propertied to A356 aluminum, which is the most common aluminum used in cast wheels:

http://www.mse.mtu.edu/classes/my413...inum/a356.html

I'm just trying to understand your logic, you keep repeating the same thing over and over without actually addressing anything.

Would you consider a wheel that meets JWL standards good enough for the street?

The wheels I have are 15x7 +35mm Forged, so am I good to go?

I'd like to see a list of companies you feel make quality street wheels, just to get an idea of what you consider a "street" wheel.

I'm also curious if you're lumping all BBS wheels in with the "BBS Racing" wheels. I've had BBS wheels on my other car for ages now and they have held up amazingly well.

also, not all race tracks are smooth, and track wheels generally face more strain then your average street wheel. You ever hit a berm at 45 mph? those aren't little rumble strips like you feel on your xbox. :lol:

it's funny, I hear the exact opposite logic from people daily. "these wheels wont see the track so I don't need something forged/strong/stay in one piece"

and now you're saying that a quality wheel that is lightweight and forged is going to bend used on the street?

can you define "racing" wheel for us.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

...Enkei RPF1s are sub 10lbs if you don't want to spend big $$ on wheels.

That's a gravity cast wheel with very thin spokes.

That wheel wouldn't hold up on the roads here in the Northeast.

While it's heavier, the forged and polished Centerline is a vastly stronger, higher quality wheel.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

That's a gravity cast wheel with very thin spokes.

That wheel wouldn't hold up on the roads here in the Northeast.

While it's heavier, the forged and polished Centerline is a vastly stronger, higher quality wheel.

ok, so you're set on the centerline.. let's drop it because we think you're wrong and you think we're wrong.. you're going to a wheel that's about the same weight as stock steelies

your offset will be fine..
you have the correct hub bore
stick to that low section width 205

i'm out..

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Tamago

ok, so you're set on the centerline.. let's drop it because we think you're wrong and you think we're wrong.. you're going to a wheel that's about the same weight as stock steelies

your offset will be fine..
you have the correct hub bore
stick to that low section width 205

i'm out..

The wheel I'm talking about that weighs 15 pounds is a 17" diameter wheel.

They don't list the weight for the 15" version, though it would obviously be lighter:

http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_d...d=36&sw_id=263 "Our 17" wheel weighs only 15 lbs!"