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Old 04-27-2009, 10:10 AM   #1
CTScott
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The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:



1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:



1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.
I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:24 AM   #3
CTScott
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Originally Posted by cyberfrogg View Post
I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..
In a nutshell, the switch that came with the kit was designed to be used with the kit, not to be used with the OEM wiring. In order for it to work correctly with the OEM wiring, it needs to be modified. The two easiest fixes without modifying the switch would be to get either an OEM fog light stalk, or the OEM fog light switch.
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Old 04-27-2009, 09:32 PM   #4
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oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are:

How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows?

where/what is the diode?

what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them?

and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."?

sorry again and thanks...
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:21 PM   #5
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberfrogg View Post
oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are:

How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows?

where/what is the diode?

what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them?

and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."?

sorry again and thanks...

To open it, there should be two tabs about 3/4" above the connector that can be pressed in to pull the connector and circuit board away from the housing.

The diode is the orange and black device.

The "jumpers" are two pieces of insulated wire that you will need to strip the ends of a solder them between the indicated endpoints.

By bridged I mean connected. They may have a silver solder blob (silver) connecting them or there may be a trace (shiny green) connecting them.
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