Adjusting rear camber??

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

So just to clarify install washers in between the actual hub spacer and the back of the drum on the bottom two bolts correct?

yes, between the hub and the spacer. bottom two bolts only.



ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, AND YOU'VE REACHED THE POINT WHERE YOU CAN'T GET THE CAR TO ROTATE TO YOUR LIKING, you can get rid of some of the toe out by putting one under the front lower bolt only :)

[Loren]

Originally Posted by Tamago

yes, between the hub and the spacer. bottom two bolts only. if you wanted to get rid of some of the toe out, put one under the front lower bolt only :)

Two quick thoughts. One is that in the OE configuration, the clamping force of the hub bolts is spread evenly over the entire hub mating surface. Inserting washers concentrates that force in the area of the washers during hard cornering. Not something I'd worry about when using steel washers between two steel mating surfaces... but insert a softer piece of aluminum in there and it's something to at least be thinking about. I would inspect after a few months to be sure that the washers aren't eating into the aluminum.

The other thought is that just putting a SINGLE washer on the front lower bolt is asking for trouble. You have four bolt holes, the one with the washer will make contact, the one opposite will make contact, and the first of the other two that you tighten will make contact... the last one either will NOT make contact, or something is going to have to BEND equal to the thickness of the washer for it to make contact. Not good.

If you want to adjust both camber AND toe with washers, you need four washers. Two under the bottom bolts (to kick the camber out) and two under the front bolts (to kick the toe out). The end result will be TWO washers under the lower front bolt, one under the bolt above it and one under the bolt behind it, and all mating surfaces will be a lot closer to mating up without bending anything.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Loren

Two quick thoughts. One is that in the OE configuration, the clamping force of the hub bolts is spread evenly over the entire hub mating surface. Inserting washers concentrates that force in the area of the washers during hard cornering. Not something I'd worry about when using steel washers between two steel mating surfaces... but insert a softer piece of aluminum in there and it's something to at least be thinking about. I would inspect after a few months to be sure that the washers aren't eating into the aluminum.

The other thought is that just putting a SINGLE washer on the front lower bolt is asking for trouble. You have four bolt holes, the one with the washer will make contact, the one opposite will make contact, and the first of the other two that you tighten will make contact... the last one either will NOT make contact, or something is going to have to BEND equal to the thickness of the washer for it to make contact. Not good.

If you want to adjust both camber AND toe with washers, you need four washers. Two under the bottom bolts (to kick the camber out) and two under the front bolts (to kick the toe out). The end result will be TWO washers under the lower front bolt, one under the bolt above it and one under the bolt behind it, and all mating surfaces will be a lot closer to mating up without bending anything.

agreed.

i've had the single washer under the front lower bolt (and with aluminum spacers) for 3 years of autocross and have had no issues. so, while in the perfect world it's not recommended, it DOES work without causing any real issues.

like i stated before. install these washers and take the car to the alignment rack.

[Loren]

Originally Posted by Tamago

like i stated before. install these washers and take the car to the alignment rack.

I'll second that.

A little bit of rear toe-out goes a long, long way and can make the car quite scary to drive. I wouldn't recommend it at all for a strictly street-driven car, there is no need for it. And I'd add the caveat to any of this that if you don't know what you're doing or why you're doing it, DON'T do it.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by Loren

I'll second that.

A little bit of rear toe-out goes a long, long way and can make the car quite scary to drive. I wouldn't recommend it at all for a strictly street-driven car, there is no need for it. And I'd add the caveat to any of this that if you don't know what you're doing or why you're doing it, DON'T do it.

while my car is within spec it is still slightly toe-out (1/8" total, 1/16" each side) and just as loren stated, if you dont' know what you're doing, dont' do it. i personally LOVE the way my car handles, but i've also taken the risk into my own hands by doing this modification. i apologize for stating it above like it was a common practice

[PHXDEMON]

Originally Posted by Loren

Two quick thoughts. One is that in the OE configuration, the clamping force of the hub bolts is spread evenly over the entire hub mating surface. Inserting washers concentrates that force in the area of the washers during hard cornering. Not something I'd worry about when using steel washers between two steel mating surfaces... but insert a softer piece of aluminum in there and it's something to at least be thinking about. I would inspect after a few months to be sure that the washers aren't eating into the aluminum.
The other thought is that just putting a SINGLE washer on the front lower bolt is asking for trouble. You have four bolt holes, the one with the washer will make contact, the one opposite will make contact, and the first of the other two that you tighten will make contact... the last one either will NOT make contact, or something is going to have to BEND equal to the thickness of the washer for it to make contact. Not good.

If you want to adjust both camber AND toe with washers, you need four washers. Two under the bottom bolts (to kick the camber out) and two under the front bolts (to kick the toe out). The end result will be TWO washers under the lower front bolt, one under the bolt above it and one under the bolt behind it, and all mating surfaces will be a lot closer to mating up without bending anything.

I actually thought about installing washers like that but didn't because I was concerned about this and the overall structural integrity of the rear suspension.