Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site
 

 


 
Go Back   Toyota Yaris Forums - Ultimate Yaris Enthusiast Site > Technical Forums > Performance Modifications
  The Tire Rack

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-15-2013, 10:54 PM   #1
4/20 NEVER FORGET
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 100
Well, it's in the car



I installed it earlier today with a 1ZZ throttle body. I was able to re-use my K&N typhoon intake but I had to buy a new coupler that doesn't reduce for the connection from the intake to the new throttle body. I had to buy a new coolant line to run to the throttle body because the lines are at a different angle from the 1NZ throttle body.

The install of the manifold itself was very easy. I also installed a Golden Eagle thermal gasket at the same time. I had to take off the hood latch mechanism to make it easier to slide the manifold into position easier, just an FYI.



As for the throttle body, based on what I read on here, I did not do a chip swap. My part number is ending in 030. After driving it around for a couple hours tonight, I think I am going to have to do a chip swap. On initial start up the idle would not stabilize, it would climb in RPMs then drop quickly, then climb and drop over and over until shut off. I remember tooter saying to back the screw out a turn so I did so and the idle stabilized but was still very high. After backing it out further I was able to get the idle to stabilize.

I took the car out for a drive. The change is noticeable. I normally drive the car in pretty low RPM range (I don't have a tach installed) and the power down low didn't change much. Once it starts to climb in revs, probably in the 3k RPM range, the car pulls stronger than before. 3rd gear around 45-50 mph and up is a LOT of fun. I'm quite interested to get this thing on a dyno once I get a bung for a wide-band installed into my exhaust.

Now, I need some advice on what to do about the throttle body. The car threw a check engine light each time I reset the ECU today, and I went and got it scanned at a autozone:



My guess is I need to do a chip swap. The car doesn't drive perfect. When I am coasting off of the throttle, say at 30mph (or any mph, doesn't matter), it doesn't matter if I barely touch the throttle or hammer the throttle, the car has a tiny "hiccup" feeling, as if the throttle was partly open then it closed and then opened. It's hard to describe. Also, when I am at partial throttle and I let off the throttle, it hangs for a second or two before closing and starting to decelerate. Is that normal? I know the car did it before, but it is far more pronounced now.

I also had some problems with high idle and idle hang, but I found that adjusting the throttle screw to a higher rpm idle has fixed it. I'm idling pretty high right now, probably around 1000-1200 rpm, but I haven't gotten a check engine light since I adjusted it this way (maybe 10 miles worth of driving where it would happen immediately before) so I think I am just going to leave it for now.

What do you guys think? I thought I had the right throttle body part number, but I'm thinking a chip swap is in my future.

As for the manifold, wow guys, it's a superb part. My friends who are all Honda guys were extremely impressed by the fit and build. The engine looks wonderful with it on there. If you're on the fence about getting one, it's a really well designed and built part. I can't wait to get this car to a dyno.



Sorry if my grammar sucks, I've been drinking.
4/20 NEVER FORGET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 02:10 AM   #2
tooter
play every day
 
tooter's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
As for the throttle body, based on what I read on here, I did not do a chip swap. My part number is ending in 030. After driving it around for a couple hours tonight, I think I am going to have to do a chip swap. On initial start up the idle would not stabilize, it would climb in RPMs then drop quickly, then climb and drop over and over until shut off. I remember tooter saying to back the screw out a turn so I did so and the idle stabilized but was still very high. After backing it out further I was able to get the idle to stabilize.

My guess is I need to do a chip swap. The car doesn't drive perfect. When I am coasting off of the throttle, say at 30mph (or any mph, doesn't matter), it doesn't matter if I barely touch the throttle or hammer the throttle, the car has a tiny "hiccup" feeling, as if the throttle was partly open then it closed and then opened. It's hard to describe. Also, when I am at partial throttle and I let off the throttle, it hangs for a second or two before closing and starting to decelerate. Is that normal? I know the car did it before, but it is far more pronounced now.

I also had some problems with high idle and idle hang, but I found that adjusting the throttle screw to a higher rpm idle has fixed it. I'm idling pretty high right now, probably around 1000-1200 rpm, but I haven't gotten a check engine light since I adjusted it this way (maybe 10 miles worth of driving where it would happen immediately before) so I think I am just going to leave it for now.

What do you guys think? I thought I had the right throttle body part number, but I'm thinking a chip swap is in my future.
Did you try backing out this idle screw about one turn counterclockwise? (it's the small screw at the top center of the picture just under the black plastic chip...)




That should solve all of the problems you just described. Mine exactly the same symptoms, and they all disappeared once the idle speed was reduced.

Last edited by tooter; 02-17-2013 at 12:47 AM.
tooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2013, 01:58 AM   #3
4/20 NEVER FORGET
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by tooter View Post
Did you try backing out this idle screw about one turn counterclockwise? (it's the small screw at the top center of the picture just under the black plastic chip...)

That should solve all of the problems you just described. Mine exactly the same symptoms, and they all disappeared once the idle speed was reduced.
Yea, that's the idle screw I was talking about. At this point I've tried adjusting it to nearly it's full range and the thing still won't idle right, it also is still the engine code listed above.

Do you (or anyone with a 1zz throttle body) have the symptoms I described in my post above? Particularly the long throttle hang when you take your foot off of the gass, and the hiccup when you press down on the gas?

At this point I think I am going to buy another 1ZZ throttle body and chip swap it in my spare time.
4/20 NEVER FORGET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2013, 02:18 AM   #4
tooter
play every day
 
tooter's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
Yea, that's the idle screw I was talking about. At this point I've tried adjusting it to nearly it's full range and the thing still won't idle right, it also is still the engine code listed above.

Do you (or anyone with a 1zz throttle body) have the symptoms I described in my post above? Particularly the long throttle hang when you take your foot off of the gass, and the hiccup when you press down on the gas?
Yes.

I'm running a 1ZZ throttle body right now, and I had all of the exact same symptoms that you've been describing. They were all caused by the butterfly not being able to close enough for the ECU to stabilize the idle. Take the chip off and check to see if the butterfly is actually closing when you back off that little allen head screw.

I tell you mine runs way better than the stock throttle body ever did... once the butterfly was allowed to close.

Quote:
At this point I think I am going to buy another 1ZZ throttle body and chip swap it in my spare time.
I hope you can sort this one out before you waste money on another one that will likely do the same thing.
tooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 09:32 PM   #5
mazilla
advocatus diaboli
 
mazilla's Avatar
 
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jacinto California
Posts: 1,126
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post

My guess is I need to do a chip swap. The car doesn't drive perfect. When I am coasting off of the throttle, say at 30mph (or any mph, doesn't matter), it doesn't matter if I barely touch the throttle or hammer the throttle, the car has a tiny "hiccup" feeling, as if the throttle was partly open then it closed and then opened. It's hard to describe. Also, when I am at partial throttle and I let off the throttle, it hangs for a second or two before closing and starting to decelerate. Is that normal? I know the car did it before, but it is far more pronounced now.

I also had some problems with high idle and idle hang, but I found that adjusting the throttle screw to a higher rpm idle has fixed it. I'm idling pretty high right now, probably around 1000-1200 rpm, but I haven't gotten a check engine light since I adjusted it this way (maybe 10 miles worth of driving where it would happen immediately before) so I think I am just going to leave it for now.

What do you guys think? I thought I had the right throttle body part number, but I'm thinking a chip swap is in my future.

Chip swap won't make a difference, I've been using the 1zz with the same problems, they just don't bother me. I like the idle hang. I get it during shifting(in a stick it's handy!) at high RPM, once in a while it'll be a momentary thing going from 1-2 in a parking lot, releasing the clutch stops it right away. I deal with the issues because of the boost in performance and the adjustable idle. I keep my idle between 900-1000, I absolutely hated the idle drop when the power system had a surge(subs or AC) and was wiling to do most anything to make it stop...I'm happy as a clam.


I do notice however, if I let the ecu(p0505 code) stay on long enough the ecu will adjust the idle on it's own down to about 750 which causes an occasional stall out if I shift into neutral at something like 50-60mph coasting onto an offramp. For that reason I just use my scangauge to clear the code every couple of days when it pops up.


I drive upwards of 400 miles a week in this car.
__________________
-Type 07 FFL-



My odometer 03/11
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...a/2843ed85.jpg
mazilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mid-West Chapter Micro Image Car Club lilredrocket Southwest 10 10-05-2009 02:06 PM
Turbo Manifold thread Sabretooth Forced Induction Forum 78 05-22-2009 07:52 AM
Yaris Intake Manifold richardholdener Performance Modifications 201 05-18-2009 12:58 PM
Intake Manifold Gasket? Nexus1155 DIY / Maintenance / Service 6 11-18-2008 09:03 PM
Official Richard Holdener *MID-RANGE* Intake Manifold List WolfWings Performance Modifications 59 11-14-2008 12:26 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:08 AM.




YarisWorld
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.