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Old 09-24-2013, 05:04 PM   #1
barryware
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris Liftback
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After reading this thread (a few times), I stopped at the dealer and picked up two bolts.. After tax, they were under 12 bucks.

I haven't been able to figure out if I need to replace the bolts by the vin.. My vin: JTDJT92317506XXXX.

Doesn't matter now as I have them but I would like to understand the "affected" cars using the vin. I did get the letter from Toyota extending the warranty to 100K miles. I have 97K+ on the car now. (2007 3dr hatch)

I understand that no alignment or anything is necessary after removing the old, and installing the new bolt(s). Is there any concern of anything moving if you have the car jacked up? If I need to jack up the car, any problem using a floor jack and lifting the car by jacking the control arm up.. Right where the strut is? I REALLY hate jacking the car up using the jack points that you would use if you get a flat and need the jack that comes with the car.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:35 PM   #2
CTScott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryware View Post
After reading this thread (a few times), I stopped at the dealer and picked up two bolts.. After tax, they were under 12 bucks.

I haven't been able to figure out if I need to replace the bolts by the vin.. My vin: JTDJT92317506XXXX.

Doesn't matter now as I have them but I would like to understand the "affected" cars using the vin. I did get the letter from Toyota extending the warranty to 100K miles. I have 97K+ on the car now. (2007 3dr hatch)

I understand that no alignment or anything is necessary after removing the old, and installing the new bolt(s). Is there any concern of anything moving if you have the car jacked up? If I need to jack up the car, any problem using a floor jack and lifting the car by jacking the control arm up.. Right where the strut is? I REALLY hate jacking the car up using the jack points that you would use if you get a flat and need the jack that comes with the car.
Correct on no alignment necessary after replacement.

As for jacking, I would not do so at the control arm. The correct front jack point (other than the pinch seams) is where the rear transmission mount meets the frame.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:48 PM   #3
WildChild
 
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The repair was done this morning, free of charge.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:05 PM   #4
esse10
 
Drives: 2009 yaris 2 door
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copper anti-seize

Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:45 PM   #5
CTScott
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Originally Posted by esse10 View Post
Question for you folks that used the Copper anti-seize, Did you put the anti-seize on the bolt threads also and did you still torque the bolt to the specs of 118 ft-lbs ? We don't get any salt on the roads down here in Texas but i will remove and inspect these bolts and depending on what condition I find I'll decide what Preventive Maintenance schedule will be required in the future.

Next question; is there a way to get Toyota corp. to acknowledge this problem and send me a letter about the extended warranty? I called my local dealer and the warranty office person acted like she had never heard of such a problem, even after I mentioned the TSB3271.
I thoroughly coated the threads and the washer portion of the head and torqued them to spec.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:26 PM   #6
CB900F2
 
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Hi WildChild..

It’s been a while, but did your invoice note the TSB # you indicted in the previous reply was issued in 2012?



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The repair was done this morning, free of charge.
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