oil and oil filter question..

[nsmitchell]

WOW!

Great info! Where was this lab session! I would eat that up with a spoon! I would friggin love to attend something like that!

I just changed my oil with Mobil-1 5W-30 from Wallyworld! 5 qts for only $20.00!

My filter was a Napa Gold (Wix). I attach a couple of hard drive magnets to the outside of the filter, hopefully capturing some of that suspended metal. I think I'm going to addd more magnets once I tear apart some more hard drives. It can't hurt is my motto.

I have considered an Amsoil ByPass system. Pricey and takes some room under the hood. I'm also afraid of leaks. I also actually enjoy changing my oil every 5K miles.

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

[Farenheit]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

Where do you drive to on a daily basis?? lol...

[keesue]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

WOW!

Great info! Where was this lab session! I would eat that up with a spoon! I would friggin love to attend something like that!

I just changed my oil with Mobil-1 5W-30 from Wallyworld! 5 qts for only $20.00!

My filter was a Napa Gold (Wix). I attach a couple of hard drive magnets to the outside of the filter, hopefully capturing some of that suspended metal. I think I'm going to addd more magnets once I tear apart some more hard drives. It can't hurt is my motto.

I have considered an Amsoil ByPass system. Pricey and takes some room under the hood. I'm also afraid of leaks. I also actually enjoy changing my oil every 5K miles.

My little Yaris is getting smoother by the day.

Thanks! I attended this some years ago. In this seminar, engines were torn down and a micrometer was used to measure loss against specifcation. I was actually astounded by what I saw. I can share that if you are interested.

I agree on the bypass system. I had one as an experiment but chose not to use it in any of my other vehicles due to the mounting, plumbing and added complexity. The magnets are a good idea as cheap insurance.

[YarisTom73]

Thanks for the info; that's what is often missing on forums such as this: good hard solid facts, as opposed to "my brother Jake tried this...". Keep up the good postings!

[keesue]

Originally Posted by YarisTom73

Thanks for the info; that's what is often missing on forums such as this: good hard solid facts, as opposed to "my brother Jake tried this...". Keep up the good postings!

Hey, thanks for saying that. I often marvel at the chances people take with an investment and at the risk of this sounding like a lecture, I thought it might be helpful to provide this input. I hope the readers find it of some value.

I have had project cars where I tested products, theories and new ideas. Just like the dyno which never lies, once I got exposed to oil analysis, all the snake oil theories went right out the window. When you tear an engine down and use a micrometer, it is the true test of how well oil is performing. When you have oil analysis performed, you know what's what without tearing it down. This is the basis for Toyota's oil change recommendation. Oil analysis.

In truth, oil 'can' last beyond 5K. This is a fact. The thing is, there is a point where the protection begins to wane and the engine wear begins to accelerate. One has no way of knowing where this point is without the benefit of a an oil analysis and a tear down to measure wear. The engine doesn't feel as tight as it did over time: 'Oh, well, its getting old'. Without an oil analysis, one is simply guessing. You can't see what oil is doing.

The new extended drain interval oils will extend the drain interval. The trade-off is the warranty. Once past 5K, the dealer and Toyota can deny a warranty claim. For that reason, I have been unwilling to gamble with the investment. I have my personal preferences in oil and spend my money for them, but I stick to the warranty requirement. Cheap insurance - no argument.

The micrometer readings of camshafts, valve guides, cylinder walls and bearings all measured the lowest with oil that was changed at the point where the oil could no longer handle (suspend) the combustion by-product, carbon, or the saturation point of water contamination from stop and go driving and the filter's inability to remove deposits - be it from cheap/poor design or failure over its service life. It is noteworthy, that synthetics are superior in every index; however, mineral oil, changed religiously at regular intervals, was more than adequate.

The machining (CNC) processes used in today's engine builds yield consistency in tolerances unheard of in assembly-line/human-built engines of the past. In fact, when one said they had their engine 'blue-printed', it was a labor intensive machining process to bring the engine to true specification to compensate for assembly line tolerances and tooling. Indeed, when one got an engine built right after the tooling was changed, that engine was 'tighter' and produced more hp. The engines built at the end of the tooling cycle simply wore themselves out. Add the wear particles from this process to the oil and not change it, and it is a recipe for disaster. The engine literally becomes a wear factory.

This is all now mitigated by computers. The engine in the Yaris is blue-printed by default. Moving parts are balanced and machined to specification. A good mineral oil will work just fine at a cheaper cost for those on a budget. Synthetics can yield a bit better mpg all things being equal but at a higher cost (leaving ROI out of the analysis).

Personally, I use the best oil to protect the investment and change it at the warranty-dictated interval. I Hope this is helpful.

[Ogredude]

Just curious on how people can use 0w20 oil??
I have read the TSB about our engines able to use 5w20, but the 0w20 is only for the Hybrid version of our engines. can anyone correct me?
I am an Amsoil user myself, and see that Amsoils 0w20 oil replaces their 5w20 - which gets even more confusing.
maybe theirs barley a difference, but with the way I drive, i would never go less than 5w30