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Old 10-31-2008, 01:16 PM   #1
richardholdener
 
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I am helping the community out by findin gout exactly what caused the probelm before jumping on the speculation bandwagon. The boost level did not hurt the motor nor the length of time spent at any given boost level. There had to be some type of ignition error that that resulted in excessive timing. We are looking into this and will report if we find the answer.

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what kind of boost levels were you running and for how long? help the 1NZ community out
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Old 10-31-2008, 03:08 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by richardholdener View Post
I am helping the community out by findin gout exactly what caused the probelm before jumping on the speculation bandwagon. The boost level did not hurt the motor nor the length of time spent at any given boost level. There had to be some type of ignition error that that resulted in excessive timing. We are looking into this and will report if we find the answer.
ok i guess that's a non answer ;) stock 1NZ rods break on fully stock xA/B's due to high RPM's for extended periods of time. toyota fixed this by giving you Yaris people taller gears (better highway cruising) ..

if you read the write-up done by elprototypes on boosting the 1NZ the rods are the first things to go. the engine is over-square and offset crank which causes piston slap (which is obviously made worse by boost) and ultimately rod failure. there is no "speculation bandwagon" on the 1NZ.. it's been around almost 10 years..

is this your first 1NZ vehicle, Richard?
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Old 10-31-2008, 04:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
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ok i guess that's a non answer ;) stock 1NZ rods break on fully stock xA/B's due to high RPM's for extended periods of time. toyota fixed this by giving you Yaris people taller gears (better highway cruising) ..

if you read the write-up done by elprototypes on boosting the 1NZ the rods are the first things to go. the engine is over-square and offset crank which causes piston slap (which is obviously made worse by boost) and ultimately rod failure. there is no "speculation bandwagon" on the 1NZ.. it's been around almost 10 years..

is this your first 1NZ vehicle, Richard?
don't mind him, he's just our resident scion ass paper who thinks his knowledge is helpful.....
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:00 PM   #4
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don't mind him, he's just our resident scion ass paper who thinks his knowledge is helpful.....


better than being ignorant like you
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:12 PM   #5
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better than being ignorant like you
ass paper.....
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:16 PM   #6
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ass paper.....
hey, at least i didn't put spaghetti with bendy ends between my seatbelt bolts and call it a suspension mod ;)
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:24 PM   #7
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hey, at least i didn't put spaghetti with bendy ends between my seatbelt bolts and call it a suspension mod ;)
better than that video of you with the bald tires. what a waste of 5 minutes that was.....
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:02 PM   #8
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Thanks Rockland for the insight on the previous post regarding con rods-it is appreciated. Piston slap, offset crank pins-where do these guys come up with this stuff? I can remember when the light clicked on for me, the day that I realized that I didn't know everything and in fact knew very little. That is the day I officially started learning. Unfortunately, people put forth much more effort convincing others of their knowledge than actually obtaining it. For the record-Rod failure is caused by tension loads (rpm), extreme compression loads (detonation or extremely high power levels) or fatigue cycle life (extended operation near fatigue). Since none of the other situations were present-we must suspect detonation as the culprit, but will perform a post mortem to see if there is any evidence. The 1NZFE rods do not fail by design, neither did the Honda rods or small block Ford rods or any of the many powdered metal production rods-the culprit has almost always been a tuning error. There is a limit to the power production with the production rods, but since (in the case of this yaris) we were nowhere near that absolute power limit

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don't mind him, he's just our resident scion ass paper who thinks his knowledge is helpful.....
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Old 10-31-2008, 05:09 PM   #9
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The 1NZFE rods do not fail by design
so explain this:







on a stock engine, stock ecu, intake, exhaust, bone dry day (so dont' even say it was hydrolock) at 85mph (over 4300rpm) about 80F ambient temperature, engine had 47,000 miles on it.

the 1NZ is not designed to rev above 4000rpm for extended periods of time.
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
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so explain this:


on a stock engine, stock ecu, intake, exhaust, bone dry day (so dont' even say it was hydrolock) at 85mph (over 4300rpm) about 80F ambient temperature, engine had 47,000 miles on it.

the 1NZ is not designed to rev above 4000rpm for extended periods of time.
Nice! looks like the same thing that happened to my cousin's 7A-FE it was the oil pump and he didn't stop the car cuase it was late in the night. Not a big issue if watch the GUAGE! Also thats about the above 4000rpm come down to P.R. and drive in the highway towards Cayey reving hard between 3rd and 4th gear to mantain 80mph thats above 4000rpm up hill like half hour drive or around 15 miles. I got A/T and M/T they get the same punishment when I'm behind the wheel remember it's a TOYOTA.
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Old 11-01-2008, 01:10 AM   #11
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With previous dyno runs with bigger intake manifolds and throttle bodys without more displaement, more cam, or forced induction a higher flowing intake will offer very little gain and may loose h.p /torque until very high rpm.
What calculations are you using for runner diameter and length.
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Old 11-01-2008, 02:43 PM   #12
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Is this question directed at me? The statement that a higher flowing intake will yield very little gain and may loose hp until high rpm is inaccurate. Intake manifolds are not simple flow devices-they are tuned to produce power at specific engine speeds based on the other variables you mentioned (displacement, cam timing etc...) It does not take a bigger or higher flowing intake to make more power, it takes the right design elements. The calculations are extremely complicated for more reasons than I can go into in such a short space. We ran over 100 different combinations before deciding on this one illustrated by the dyno curve provided. Intake design is more than just welding together a plenum, runners and flange.

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With previous dyno runs with bigger intake manifolds and throttle bodys without more displaement, more cam, or forced induction a higher flowing intake will offer very little gain and may loose h.p /torque until very high rpm.
What calculations are you using for runner diameter and length.
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Old 11-01-2008, 02:44 PM   #13
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PS-The tuning effect works the same on NA and FI applications.

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With previous dyno runs with bigger intake manifolds and throttle bodys without more displaement, more cam, or forced induction a higher flowing intake will offer very little gain and may loose h.p /torque until very high rpm.
What calculations are you using for runner diameter and length.
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