rear seats?

[STC]

Originally Posted by osmoq

And SCT...yeah, I know. I hate it because I really don't care about most of that stuff, but the two things I want require me to get the POWER package... I just want a basic car with A/C, a RADIO (lol), to be able to fold the back seat down, cruise control, and power windows (although I'm waffling on that...but I'm thinking that I want to be able to control the back windows while I'm on the highway, so I guess I'll go for it...). Why can't it just come with that?
I don't care about power door locks, satellite radio, etc. lol

Thanks for all the clarification...I keep reading conflicting things, maybe coming from different models or something, so I couldn't find definitive information.

The only thing is if I NEED to upgrade because I'll be driving it in the winter, then I will. So if anyone has specific comments about that, that would be great. Although it looks like I might be upgrading more than I intended, anyway... Ah, well...a rear window defroster will be nice I suppose... :p

I still might just go with the base. What good is having this car going to be if I can't afford to go on the road trips I'm planning? :)

Thanks for the help, all of you!!

Yeah, me too! I’m a minimalist when it comes to material things. After crunching the numbers, for me the best value came out to the Convenience Package... middle of the road. I did add two Option Accessories (Tachometer and Mats). I live in the North East; the Convenience Package comes with the All Weather Guard Package... good for winter and harsh conditions.

As Rain says... maybe you could negotiate a Package? Sales are slumping and a dealer would like to get rid of the 2010 stock to make room for the 2011’s...

It was the first new car for me. I decided to negotiate. Just make sure you do your HW. Dealers are out to make money off you. If you can create a good business friendship and understand how the dealership works, you will do well. Know the difference between MSRP (Sticker Price), Factory Invoice, True Average, and True Cost. You can then come to a Fair Market Value Price...

The True Cost is generally what you want to shoot for. This is the estimation of what the dealer paid for that specific car. The cost is determined on the Factory Invoice total, minus any Holdbacks (National, Regional, etc), and Customer and Dealer Incentives. Toyota USA Dealer Holdback (DH) is @ 2%. So, your invoice offset price for the vehicle can be well below the Factory Invoice.

Also, there are fees that are required and unavoidable... These are
1. Destination charge
2. Title and Registration
3. Documentation fee, and
4. State Sales Tax

In many states there is a cap (State Law) on the Documentation fee amount. In states with no laws, be leery in paying Doc fees of over $150.

Be careful of Dealerships that will try to push a preparation fee, disability insurance, credit life insurance, and other add-ons... these are all not necessary and totally avoidable. Check out many dealerships and areas...

Anybody have further advice? Threads to help?

Cheers!