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Old 02-02-2013, 02:38 AM   #1
fnkngrv
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Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
I didn't... But on all four cylinders? I'll listen to any possibility at this point though. Is there any way to test for that without physical inspection?


most likely not unfortunately...
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:52 AM   #2
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Idk
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:11 AM   #3
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^ yep, pull one of the ways for a cylinder to run and if your rps only drops slightly then that is the problematic cylinder. if they drop a few hundred then it is most likely not that cylinder. you will be looking for minimal change in operation.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:09 AM   #4
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My friends supra had multiple cyl. missfires. Turned out to be bad coils. He replaced them all. May be worth a shot. Also if you buy a set of Noid lights you can check the signal coming from the injectors. Its just a light bulb that attaches to the injector connector. With the starter cranking you can watch them blink.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:30 PM   #5
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Guys... It's finally over.

It turns out it was the blow off valve!

I had just gotten a set of new coils, threw them in, and no dice. For whatever reason, the engine was running (slightly) better, and I noticed it was holding a fairly constant -12 vacuum. I don't know what possessed me to do so, but I started kinking portions of the vacuum lines. As soon as I kinked the line going to the reference port on the BOV, the engine immediately responded!

In retrospect, it's obvious why this didn't turn up in any of the four leak tests done. They all used positive pressure (smoke, air compressor), and the BOV was leaking only under vacuum (which makes sense considering how it operates).

I can't even begin to explain how relieved I feel lol...

And I'll finally be able to enjoy my new wheels I got literally the day after the problems started lol. The company I bought this (likely knock off) BOV from will definitely be hearing from me.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:38 PM   #6
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Can you return the coils?

Glad you finally figured it out!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:12 PM   #7
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Tial BOV is the way to go for sure. If/when my HKS dies or if I get a wild hair I am gonna change to a Tial.

Awsum to hear that you finally figured it out!
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:54 PM   #8
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WTF NO F'N WAY! I SWEAR IF THIS WAS MY ISSUE IMMA B PISSED.......
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #9
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^ Lol. Your compression says otherwise though.

I've taken it apart and can't really figure out what's going on. My guess, since it was leaking past the valve, is that it wasn't sealing properly under normal operation. Kinking the reference line must have made it operate in reverse and force the valve closed. Maybe the spring is worn? I'm going to try shimming it before completely replacing it since I can use the Zage bov in the meanwhile.

Still can't believe the hell I've been through for something so simple. I'm especially bitter about bovs now because I also had trouble with the one in my tc lol
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
^ Lol. Your compression says otherwise though.

I've taken it apart and can't really figure out what's going on. My guess, since it was leaking past the valve, is that it wasn't sealing properly under normal operation. Kinking the reference line must have made it operate in reverse and force the valve closed. Maybe the spring is worn? I'm going to try shimming it before completely replacing it since I can use the Zage bov in the meanwhile.

Still can't believe the hell I've been through for something so simple. I'm especially bitter about bovs now because I also had trouble with the one in my tc lol
Just needs a stronger spring. Tial ones you can select spring , Greddy can be adjusted , TurboXS you shim. Some BOV's are used for supercharged applications and require it to be open at idle ( to bypass excess air driven by supercharger). In a draw through MAF sensor application if the BOV is cracked open, the car will run like poop because of unmetered air entering the engine .
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:23 PM   #11
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Dude, now you have an idea of what I went through....after I had installed my "new" engine along with the new setup for boost control I was sooooo leery and scared especially after the first few drives the boost wasn't stopping on building. That made me really frustrated and then of coursing finding out my new wastgate was missing a line plug which then buttoned it up nice and solid.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:08 PM   #12
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Glad your back on the road. And that sucks. I have had mine cause some problems but not that bad. Now I recirculate the air back to the intake. It works much better if your using the stock mass air sensor.
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Old 10-05-2010, 03:05 PM   #13
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Focus shift are you not seeing open loop at all? Do you have a manual or automatic?
I have an automatic and am not seeing open loop at all (as per Scangauge). The only time I enter open loop is early idling, and taking my foot off the throttle entirely.

Also - the reason I feel stoich may actually be alright is because there is no detonation, and IAT is always close to the ambient outside temp...

eTiMaGo, currently reading through those threads, but I had a thought. Does the ECU need to pass ALL the parameters to enter open loop? Because if not, there is probably a MAF voltage value whereby the ECU determines open loop is needed. If that's the case, a MAF clamp can be set up on the FIC at that value from where boost kicks in.

^^^ I feel the above may be possible due to the manner in which the Blitz fuel controller is hooked up, but 75% throttle might still be needed...
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:09 PM   #14
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...and IAT is always close to the ambient outside temp...
Just remember, that reading is BEFORE the turbo. The air going into the engine is actually a lot hotter.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:22 AM   #15
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^ Yeah sorry, disregard that.

Looking at those excel sheets, it's pretty aparent 75% throttle plays a large role in changing to open loop. MAF reading seems to be pretty irrelevant, so my previous idea is (most likely) not going to work.

However, what if we mapped the TPS to one of the analog signals of the FIC? Then, could we possibly manipulate that signal to 75%? That would force open loop... This is probably way oversimplified and I'm sure there would be multiple other issues including a CEL.

eTiMaGo, we're going to figure this out this time around. I need my car running safely, and that turbo ain't coming out.
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Old 10-06-2010, 08:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
However, what if we mapped the TPS to one of the analog signals of the FIC? Then, could we possibly manipulate that signal to 75%? That would force open loop... This is probably way oversimplified and I'm sure there would be multiple other issues including a CEL.
Sounds like quite the recipe for unintended acceleration!!!

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eTiMaGo, we're going to figure this out this time around. I need my car running safely, and that turbo ain't coming out.
sir yes sir! but keep in mind all I can offer is theoretical, we need all the experience amassed over the past few years from our 1NZ gurus
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:37 AM   #17
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Sounds like quite the recipe for unintended acceleration!!!

sir yes sir! but keep in mind all I can offer is theoretical, we need all the experience amassed over the past few years from our 1NZ gurus
Agreed, I'm hoping others with some knowledge will chime in with ideas. I'm really hoping to get this working with the FIC, and I know we can do it...

Regarding the unintended acceleration, I don't think that would happen. The actual throttle plate would be at less than 75%, but the ECU would think it's time for open loop and give us fueling control. We could clamp the MAF if necessary as well.

But I can see what you're saying... If the ECU sees an open throttle, it would increase the engine speed right? I need to look at the service manuals a bit more...

When I get the chance, the first thing I'm doing is fooling around with the O2 sensors.
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