DRL in Yaris from..?

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.

So the answer is YES, I do have to order relay kit if I can't remove the DRL module.

Does that relay kit look right and working which I posted few messages before?

[CTScott]

Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.

I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.

Originally Posted by Falconia

I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help

CTScott said that DRl pulses the ground side. Yes but the control still (even with the relay) comes from car's own wires which is connected to DRL, that is why I don't get it how the relay changes the problem. Both get the control from cars own wires and so they are both connected to the DRL

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

On your car it is just below the top of the dash, to the left of the speedometer.

Attachment 31699

Originally Posted by CTScott

Here's how to remove the cover:

Attachment 31723

This seems to be my monolog but, I get the fron dash off with CTScott instructions! That was easier than I expected and the DRL was right under the dash. Thanks!

I found the DRL module with number: 82810-52020
whic differs from DIY instructions (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894). In this DIY number was 82810-52040.

I think that module I found is DRL because google search:
82810 RELAY ASSY, RUNNING LIGHT
82810‑52020 NCP1*, NLP10, SCP10..JPP..LHD..(LUNA, SOL, TRSTD, TS) 1

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_200...html?hl=85916D

So, yei! Problem solved (hope so..)

[CTScott]

That's correct. Your generation of Yaris had a different part number than the newer generation.

If simply disconnecting the module doesn't do the trick, then snap a picture of the connector. If the EWD that I have matches the wiring for your area, then I believe that you will need to disconnect the yellow wire (between the two greens) and leave the module in place.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

That's correct. Your generation of Yaris had a different part number than the newer generation.

If simply disconnecting the module doesn't do the trick, then snap a picture of the connector. If the EWD that I have matches the wiring for your area, then I believe that you will need to disconnect the yellow wire (between the two greens) and leave the module in place.

Are you kidding me. I thought I solved the problem and I could start assemblying the kit when it arrives but you said that maybe disconnecting the module doesn't help?! Connector is blue colored, if it helps anything... What does it help if I disconnect just yellow wire but leave the module in place?

What EWD do you have?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Falconia

Are you kidding me. I thought I solved the problem and I could start assemblying the kit when it arrives but you said that maybe disconnecting the module doesn't help?! Connector is blue colored, if it helps anything... What does it help if I disconnect just yellow wire but leave the module in place?

What EWD do you have?

I have the US 2001 EWDs. From what I have found with the 2nd generation Yaris, there are differences in the US and European cars. So, I am not completely sure that your 2001 matches the EWDs that I have. With the 2nd generation Yaris, the European DRL module is wired much different from ours, where you can't just disconnect it to bypass it.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

I have the US 2001 EWDs. From what I have found with the 2nd generation Yaris, there are differences in the US and European cars. So, I am not completely sure that your 2001 matches the EWDs that I have. With the 2nd generation Yaris, the European DRL module is wired much different from ours, where you can't just disconnect it to bypass it.

Does the EWD which you have "say" that I have to disconnect just a yellow wire. Or does it say that in US 2001 Yaris DRL have to be completely disconnect.

Originally Posted by Yaris2010Rs

i had the same problem when trying to disable drl's. i took out the module and was very happy for about a min.... with the module removed the DRL's, fogs and highbeams no longer worked...... u need to put that module back in but to disable the DRLs u need to cut the big blue wire (i opened up the module and cut the connectors right off the chip ) and everything works perfectly...... except the DRL's. if u are completly lost i'll try to get picks up by week end.

jsut a side note.... when i had the problem i didn't have any HID's installed so if the problem is dirrectly related to them then i dont think the module will be too much help..... give it a shot if u like

So... Yellow or blue?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Falconia

Does the EWD which you have "say" that I have to disconnect just a yellow wire. Or does it say that in US 2001 Yaris DRL have to be completely disconnect.


So... Yellow or blue?

With how the module is integrated, I would say that for the 2001 US one, removing the module would make the lights not come on at all, so based on that disconnecting the yellow looks like the required method.


For the second question of Yellow or Blue, he is talking about a 2nd Gen Yaris DRL, which is wired completely different than the first gen DRL module.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

With how the module is integrated, I would say that for the 2001 US one, removing the module would make the lights not come on at all, so based on that disconnecting the yellow looks like the required method.


For the second question of Yellow or Blue, he is talking about a 2nd Gen Yaris DRL, which is wired completely different than the first gen DRL module.

I just noticed that if light switch is turned "off" high beams doesn't work. When I turn lights "on" highbeams work too. Is that some kind of glue how DRL work in my car...?

UPDATE! I finally got DRL removed and like CScott said any lights did no light up. Including headlights, taillights or panel lights.
CTScott you said that I have to cut yellow wire from DRL socket. Could you explain what that wire is and what it does. If I cut that wire, tail lights, panel lights and so on working when turning lights on from circuit braker (don't know what the controller next to the stering wheel is in english)?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Falconia

I just noticed that if light switch is turned "off" high beams doesn't work. When I turn lights "on" highbeams work too. Is that some kind of glue how DRL work in my car...?

UPDATE! I finally got DRL removed and like CScott said any lights did no light up. Including headlights, taillights or panel lights.
CTScott you said that I have to cut yellow wire from DRL socket. Could you explain what that wire is and what it does. If I cut that wire, tail lights, panel lights and so on working when turning lights on from circuit braker (don't know what the controller next to the stering wheel is in english)?

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.

Yes, there is yellow between two greens. I was surprised because all lights stopped working when I unplugged the DRL. If I cut that wire tail lights as well as headlights still working when I manually turn on the lights? Right?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Falconia

Yes, there is yellow between two greens. I was surprised because all lights stopped working when I unplugged the DRL. If I cut that wire tail lights as well as headlights still working when I manually turn on the lights? Right?

I believe so. To be safe, either pop the pin out of the connector, or cut the wire with enough left on the connector side to be able to reconnect if that doesn't work.

[Falconia]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.

hmm... I just noticed that headlights light up even engine is off. Does this still work by cutting yellow wire?

[pawsplus]

I have a 2010 liftback and the manual mentioned DRL. But when I turn on the car the headlights do NOT go on. ??? Should I complain?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Falconia

hmm... I just noticed that headlights light up even engine is off. Does this still work by cutting yellow wire?

Yes. That should still work the same.

[Falconia]

Hi again,

I have now the second Bi-xenon bulbs in my Yaris. These new bulbs has worse flickering problem compares to older ones. Passenger side bulb is flickering especially when starting engine, pretty bad I think. My hid is connected directly to the battery. I have heard about relay harness, but is that going to change anything because my hid is already connected directly to the battery.

What about capacitor decoder which is used to flickering also, that stables the current, I think.

How I resolve flickering problem in that situation? Relay, Capacitor?!

...and I have hi/lo kit where relay harness came with the kit