Zage Turbo Kit Install - Toyota Yaris

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

Yes, oil pressure with cold oil will always be higher than with hot oil. Oil thins out as its temperature rises. Thats where the for example 5W30 # come from. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates.

And depending on the quality/brand of the oil you will have +/- oil pressure.

Great info, thanks. Agreed on the RPM and oil pressure correlation as well. That makes a bit more sense and would still explain the excessive pressure. The pressure was actually so great that oil was leaking out of the filter.

I think you mean build more slowly, not fall off, right?

Yeah sorry. It pretty much plateaus at 6 psi. I was thinking it may have been because of a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on the TB, but after replacing the bolt and TB nothing has changed.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Great info, thanks. Agreed on the RPM and oil pressure correlation as well. That makes a bit more sense and would still explain the excessive pressure. The pressure was actually so great that oil was leaking out of the filter.



Yeah sorry. It pretty much plateaus at 6 psi. I was thinking it may have been because of a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on the TB, but after replacing the bolt and TB nothing has changed.

You might have a boost leak somewhere in the piping. Does your car jerk any? how are your afrs?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I really suspect I do have a boost leak and have had one since I installed the kit. Tomorrow I'm going to really comb over the induction system carefully. If nothing turns up, I'm gonna build a pressure tester. Also plan on hooking up a separate pressure gauge to the wastegate line and watching that.

There isn't really a better explanation for the problem I'm having. AFRs don't really indicate anything since I have complete control. One thing I did notice was significant richening at 5 psi or so while accelerating on the highway (i.e hits correct AFR for awhile, then goes richer than 10 after cruising for a bit). It's happened a couple times...

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I really suspect I do have a boost leak and have had one since I installed the kit. Tomorrow I'm going to really comb over the induction system carefully. If nothing turns up, I'm gonna build a pressure tester. Also plan on hooking up a separate pressure gauge to the wastegate line and watching that.

There isn't really a better explanation for the problem I'm having. AFRs don't really indicate anything since I have complete control. One thing I did notice was significant richening at 5 psi or so while accelerating on the highway (i.e hits correct AFR for awhile, then goes richer than 10 after cruising for a bit). It's happened a couple times...

Based on what your telling me it sounds like you have a boost leak. All that metered air is escaping somewhere thus leading to your rich condition.

[Nexus1155]

I don't get it? You do have a BOV right? Or does it recirc?

If it blows off into atmosphere it will cause a rich condition.
When you decelerate I usually see it lean out.

Still, boost leak testing should be done to any new build, and also as maintenance over time.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

I don't get it? You do have a BOV right? Or does it recirc?

If it blows off into atmosphere it will cause a rich condition.
When you decelerate I usually see it lean out.

Still, boost leak testing should be done to any new build, and also as maintenance over time.

he is talking about while cruising.