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#19 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Covina, Cali
Posts: 28
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Well I have a "MI" appointment next week so I know I'm in good hands... Already had one adventure with my Yaris, not looking for #2, LOL
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#20 |
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vroom vroom
Drives: lil red 5-door Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Posts: 7,744
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Although I had a NST crank pulley, the main difference I noted was when shifting, when letting my foot off the gas, the revs would die down a lot quicker, so you had to shift and get back on the gas faster too (and the engine would rev up quicker anyway). So, it allowed faster shifting :)
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The price of freedom of religion, or of speech, or of the press, is that we must put up with a good deal of rubbish. - Robert Jackson ![]() Bye bye 1NZ... |
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#21 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 9,873
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I have the regular NST lightened crank pulley (not the underdrive one). I've only really notice a difference in free revving (in neutral vs in gear). Aside from that, haven't really noticed anything else. lol
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#22 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: Yaris '06 Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Singapore
Posts: 73
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Quote:
I have the NST WP and Alternator pulley, forgotten what brand crank pulley (likely is summit or something) and MI CCI flywheel. If i Shift UP just abit slower, i would have to blip the throttle slightly. For DOWN shift, blipping the throttle is almost a must for a rev match. |
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#23 |
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My Face Is Ridiculous
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris 3dr LB Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Scott, LA
Posts: 456
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well, I pulled the trigger and ordered it. so I guess I'll see for myself when it comes in. I plan on doing a full review.
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#24 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Prius, 2007 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ocala Florida
Posts: 368
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You'll like it :)
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#25 |
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My Face Is Ridiculous
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris 3dr LB Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Scott, LA
Posts: 456
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I'm sure I will. everything I've done so far is to make the car a nice fun street ride. I really don't want to go overboard like I've done with previous cars and make them awful on the daily commute.
I think after this all I want is a set of Tanabe NF210s and a header. Oh, and some gripper tires when the stockers have been run bald. |
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#26 |
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Obsessed with 1.5L
Drives: '10 PW Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 908
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i had a belt squeal initially. my new gates belt was $7 and change. took me 10 minutes to change it along with cleaning the other pulleys, noise went away.
you should replace the belt while your there anyways, & clean/degrease the other pulleys while your there
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-Greg...the Exhaust Freak. -10 PW sedan 107whp/110wtq, full exhaust, suspension bits, TRD LSD -06 Highlander 3mzfe Limited AWD -82 Malibu, 1uzfe swap -97 Tercel coupe, 1nzfe/4.31 -96 Tercel coupe, Turbo 5efe, autoX -96 Tercel 4dr |
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#27 | |
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Quote:
Replacing the belt and cleaning up the pulleys while you are swapping out the pulley is great great advice.
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my {(retired) ride} - {mi ssk: review, diy} - {mi lw cp: review, diy} - {foglight install} - {painted emblem: experiment, diy}
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#28 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 06 5dr LE (deceased), 13 Soul Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,809
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Based on my own experience with these pulleys, I believe the issue is the aluminum does not grip the belt as well as the OEM cast pulley does.
On a fresh belt, all is good. Once the belt has broken in and retensioned, all is still good. Then, as the belt ages and starts to glaze, the startup squeal is there to stay, but only on a cold engine/belt. If you're experiencing squeal on a hot engine/belt, then there is most likely tensioning issues.
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