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#19 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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Is there anyone making a replacement bushing for the trailing beam on these cars? I ran a Nissan several years ago with a simular rear set-up and the Nismo replacement bushings for that car made a world of difference.
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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I have the Delrin sitting here just for that reason, but I'm uncertain if it will provide more gains over headaches in terms of bind. Perhaps something of a softer durometer to merely fill in the voids is the approach I may take.
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#21 |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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From what I've seen the suspension moves in a sideways arc so you'd need a ball and cup to accommodate the movement. Look at the mustang rear control arm bushings to understand what I mean. Going to a solid 1 piece would be a really bad idea.
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#22 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
48726-NP900 Rear suspension arm seat inner 48726-NP910 Rear suspension arm seat outer Each side requires an inner and an outer. They are one of the standard upgrades for the Netz Cup Vitz race cars. http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_bush-vitz90.html Resin Cups.jpg Resin Cups 2.jpg
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#23 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Last edited by CTScott; 02-25-2013 at 07:56 AM. |
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#24 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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Quote:
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
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#25 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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Exactly my thoughts as well.
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#26 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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Quote:
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Looking over the part#s though, part #4 looks to be a front control arm bushing. |
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#27 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Toyota lists them as "Resin", but I would suspect they are either Nylon or Delrin.
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#28 |
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Perhaps I totally missed it, but what is the OP trying to correct, or improve? I completely saw the video and didn't notice any problem, but I am not well versed in suspension so I likely am missing the obvious to you track/racing guys.
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#29 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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Just an FYI, JapanParts estimates $250 shipped to NJ for those white torsion beam bushings. Steep price to pay over an afternoon and some 3M window weld.
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#30 | |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Quote:
So your asking why is that bad??? Well lateral movement is bad because you decrease the tractive capacity of the tires when there is deflection. What that means is during turn in when the rear suspension deflects the total amount of traction the tires can hold is reduced, when the suspension settles in mid turn you get more total traction, and then a decrease in traction during corner exit. So during transitional elements, think moose test or NATO test or Slalom, deflection in the rear suspension is really bad as it makes the rear want to walk away and makes the car unstable. |
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#31 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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Window welding the stock bushing would likely introduce bind... That JapanParts bushing is built such that it won't bind.
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
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#32 | |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Quote:
Poly Mix |
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#33 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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I'm no stranger to Forsch casting urethane. Thank you though. Window weld isn't anywhere remotely close to even a 50A, as it has the consistency of silicone when it's hard. There'd be no risk of binding but in hindsight probably not worth the effort. Guess I just need to plunker down the dough for something TRD already engineered correctly.
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#34 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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That's right - The correct part number for the rubber piece for the center of the resin pieces is: 48752-NP900 (Rear suspension support stopper)
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#35 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris S Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 574
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I installed the trd rear swaybar on my car on saturday and took it off on Sunday, made my car feel weird and didn't like the added oversteer made it feel sketchy on the freeway
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"In his heart a man plans his course, but the Lord determines his steps." Proverbs 16:9 |
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#36 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Yaris SE Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 179
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Scott, out of the parts listed, only the two white resin rings are applicable to the torsion beam bushing. 48752-NP900 pertains to a replacement bushing that resides on the shock shaft, just above the dust boot.
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