Wheel Bearing Replacement (FRONT)

[justjesus]

sorry, but no. I didn't go 10k miles more on a bad bearing. Misunderstanding.

I went maybe 2 months, about 2500 miles, before replacing it. It's just that 8 months went by before i posted the pics!

[nookandcrannycar]

Originally Posted by justjesus

sorry, but no. I didn't go 10k miles more on a bad bearing. Misunderstanding.

I went maybe 2 months, about 2500 miles, before replacing it. It's just that 8 months went by before i posted the pics!

Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.

[GrayYaris]

I don't mean to threadjack, but I just replaced both front bearings on my 2009 and have some additional details to add.

First thing is before the axle nut is broken it should be unstaked. In my case I was able to use a strong bladed screw driver to pry on the staked nut. Be careful not to damage the threads on the axle. I'm not sure if threads would be damaged if the nut was still staked but to be safe pry it up anyway.


The next step is to lift the car and get the wheels off.

Next I removed the two bolts holding the brake caliper bracket to the steering knuckle and didn't bother removing the caliper from the bracket. I had just re-lubed my caliper sliders so if you haven't it might be a good time to make sure they are still in good shape.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I removed the tie-rod end by removing the cotter pin and then using an impact wrench to remove the castle nut. Because the cotter pin was so rusty I had the break both of the splits off the end and then hammer on a socket over top to break the cotter pin. Hopefully your car isn't as rusty as mine and you can just pull your cotter pin out. After the castle nut is off take a hand sledge or heavy hammer and hit the knuckle. This shocks the connection and should allow the tie rod end to fall out of the knuckle.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I completely removed the axle nut and put a piece of wood over the spindle and hit it loose of the hub.


Next I removed the abs sensor with a 10mm socket and worked my way around the sensor to remove the rust that had essentially welded the flange of the sensor to my steering knuckle. Be gentle so you don't damage the sensor. This may take a minute. After it is free of rust and has some play in it, you should be able to pry it out gently.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next I hammered off my rotor with a three pound hand sledge. While not ideal, this worked for me. You may wish to find bolts that fit the threads on the rotor and push the rotor off the hub.

Next I removed the pin from the lower ball joint castle nut and then used a box wrench to remove the castle nut. The nut won't completely thread off and your wrench will be stuck between the ball joint knuckle and the cv boot. This is fine, you just have to now break the lower ball joint loose. This was kind of tough. I ended up putting a jack on the hub and loading the suspension while hitting the knuckle with my hand sledge. Eventually this should shock the tapered joint loose.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Next remove the two bolts attached to the strut. Now you should be able to wiggle everything apart. You may need a pry bar to pull the rest of the ball joint out of it's knuckle.

After the steering knuckle was out, I soaked the inside with pb blaster of the knuckle where the snap ring is and left it lug studs down over night. This may have helped release some rust and make the snap ring removal easier.

Next take it to someone with a press and have them press in a new bearing.
If you have abs make sure to figure out which side of the bearing is magnetic. I picked up a new snap ring for my left side, because they were in bad shape. The magnetic side goes towards the inside and will sit next to the wheel speed sensor. If you have a friend like mine, you will tell him to put the black side (magnetic side may be a different color on your bearing) of the bearing towards the inside. He will do this on one side and then when you bring him the other side, you figure he will remember which side goes towards the inside. Of course, your assumption was wrong and he presses it in the wrong way. Now you will have an abs light and no abs (more on this later).

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...&d=1398555173+

Installation is much easier as you don't have to remove any ball and socket joints. However I had a little bit of trouble with keeping the ball from spinning in the socket of my tie rod end. To remedy this take a pry bar and pry the tie rod away from the knuckle while at the same time threading the castle nut tighter. This pressure on the ball and socket joint should keep it from spinning and allow you to tighten the nut. You may also run into this problem with the lower ball joint and use the same technique to get that nut on. I will attach a picture of the disassembled view of the front suspension from the manual titled "driveshaft.pdf" off of micro image's site. From this you will be able to figure out the torque specs for the suspension components. The only one I couldn't get to was the lower ball joint which I just tightened until snug. You may be able to put the steering knuckle on the lower ball joint only (without the CV in the hub) and load the ball joint enough to fit a socket and toque wrench in.

Also remember to stake your NEW axle nut. This makes sure the nut doesn't back off and ruin your bearing or your day. I used a large bladed screw driver and a mallet.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173

Since my abs is now disabled and I don't want to complain to the friend who pressed the bearing in, I will most likely be redoing this side during the summer when I have access to a press. Unlucky for me, but lucky for YW as I will add a write up on that process too. Who knows... I didn't have abs in my previous car and didn't mind. If I get too lazy to re-do the bearing then I will have fun next winter left foot braking around corners (just kidding).

Here is an assortment of tools I used. There are may be a couple others (torque wrench, etc) that I misssed. You want to make sure that you have a 12 point 30mm socket as the six point doesn't seem to fit at all.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/att...1&d=1398555173


Hope this was helpful.