Tooter manifold / Corolla TB / DC Header / etc....

[Jason@SportsCar]

You would be surprised at how a thermostat can put a car out of whack... This past weekend I helped my neighbor install a thermostat in his work van. It failed emissions, when he got the ECU scanned by a GM tech it was stuck in open loop mode, and would not get above 150f - which is about the temp of that unit you put it. In his case when he had the radiator replaced a few months back some knuckle head cut the core out of the thermostat (no idea why, could have been stuck), we put a new stock one in and now it passes smog.

I run a cooler unit, because we run a 30-40 min race and spin over 7000rpm, but I have complete control of my fuel via my AEM ecu.

On a road going car with a stock ECU you have done nothing but fatten up the mixture. No upside.

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

You would be surprised at how a thermostat can put a car out of whack... This past weekend I helped my neighbor install a thermostat in his work van. It failed emissions, when he got the ECU scanned by a GM tech it was stuck in open loop mode, and would not get above 150f - which is about the temp of that unit you put it. In his case when he had the radiator replaced a few months back some knuckle head cut the core out of the thermostat (no idea why, could have been stuck), we put a new stock one in and now it passes smog.

I run a cooler unit, because we run a 30-40 min race and spin over 7000rpm, but I have complete control of my fuel via my AEM ecu.

On a road going car with a stock ECU you have done nothing but fatten up the mixture. No upside.

Its an easy enough swap (the thermostat) except for having to replace the leaked coolant - so I think I'll try swapping it back.

That and the TB swap are the easiest.

When I get some time this weekend I'll first try the TB and then the Thermostat.

Will

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

Its an easy enough swap (the thermostat) except for having to replace the leaked coolant - so I think I'll try swapping it back.

That and the TB swap are the easiest.

When I get some time this weekend I'll first try the TB and then the Thermostat.

Will

Based on Jason's expertise, I would do the thermostat first. As a quick and dirty test today, drive it and see if the green coolant light goes off. If it stays on and green, then you are in "cold start" mode. If it goes out, then the thermostat is likely not the issue.

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Based on Jason's expertise, I would do the thermostat first. As a quick and dirty test today, drive it and see if the green coolant light goes off. If it stays on and green, then you are in "cold start" mode. If it goes out, then the thermostat is likely not the issue.

Green coolant light???

um????

I think I have a blue???? light when the engine is cold, but it goes out almost instantly in the summer, and only stays on briefly in the fall and spring.

I actually know the exact water temps because I've been driving around staring at my Scan Guage. ............................???

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

Green coolant light???

um????

I think I have a blue???? light when the engine is cold, but it goes out almost instantly in the summer, and only stays on briefly in the fall and spring.

I actually know the exact water temps because I've been driving around staring at my Scan Guage. ............................???

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.

I'll take my toy (The Yaris) for a drive tonight and pay attention to both the color of the light (when the car starts) and the water temp (in deg F)

Will

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

I'll take my toy (The Yaris) for a drive tonight and pay attention to both the color of the light (when the car starts) and the water temp (in deg F)

Will

For my car on the freeway, my coolant runs between 179-184*. City driving goes from 180-190's. Parking lot goes up to 202, or around there where the fan kicks in. lol

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. On the Canadian clusters it must be different. On the US ones we have a little green indicator. Mine takes about 1/2 mile from my house to go out.

You were RIGHT (sorry my bad) the light IS GREEN, but at this time of year it is almost never ever on when I first start the car (even after its been sitting for days which is usually the case)

Originally Posted by CTScott

What are you seeing for temps? Normally the Yaris will sit in the low to mid 180's F when cruising.

I drove it briefly yesterday and I was seeing temps in the 140 - 175 range when cruising (outside temperature was approx 91)

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

I drove it briefly yesterday and I was seeing temps in the 140 - 175 range when cruising (outside temperature was approx 91)

Those temps are in engine warm up territory so the ECU will still be supplying a rich fuel mix. I'm not certain, but there's a chance that the timing parameters during the warm up cycle might also be different.

Be sure to let me know what happens, because if you're not satisfied, you get your money back.

Greg