KAAZ Limited Slip Differential Compatibility

[sheekeebut]

Thanks for the massive, jagged pill of reality, Crank. Perhaps I should enjoy my sedan while it's still tame and economical, and then save up for triple my budget on performance parts.

Out of curiosity, what do you mean by setting preloads, on transmission?

[CrankyOldMan]

Originally Posted by sheekeebut

Thanks for the massive, jagged pill of reality, Crank. Perhaps I should enjoy my sedan while it's still tame and economical, and then save up for triple my budget on performance parts.

Out of curiosity, what do you mean by setting preloads, on transmission?

It's jagged, yes, but the reality of a modified car is (almost) always worth it. =) If you're mechanically inclined, can follow a repair manual, and have access to the tools (borrowed or bought), it can be a very rewarding experience. I've had a lot of fun learning about how it all works and fits together, and really look forward to improved cornering once it's all done.

The tapered roller bearings on the differential need to be "squished" a little bit to keep them from banging around under load. Too tight = premature wear from friction, too loose = premature wear from rattling/impacting. You check the preload by rotating the differential and measuring the torque required to start it moving. For an open diff, you can use a fork-like extension to grab the spider pinion. For almost all LSDs, you need to either have a chopped off drive shaft or install the pinion shaft with the diff and measure the torque on it. I'll see if I can find a few DIY threads with better explanations/pics of the process.

[sheekeebut]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

It's jagged, yes, but the reality of a modified car is (almost) always worth it. =) If you're mechanically inclined, can follow a repair manual, and have access to the tools (borrowed or bought), it can be a very rewarding experience. I've had a lot of fun learning about how it all works and fits together, and really look forward to improved cornering once it's all done.

The tapered roller bearings on the differential need to be "squished" a little bit to keep them from banging around under load. Too tight = premature wear from friction, too loose = premature wear from rattling/impacting. You check the preload by rotating the differential and measuring the torque required to start it moving. For an open diff, you can use a fork-like extension to grab the spider pinion. For almost all LSDs, you need to either have a chopped off drive shaft or install the pinion shaft with the diff and measure the torque on it. I'll see if I can find a few DIY threads with better explanations/pics of the process.

Reminds me of bicycle maintenance, but much more expensive. And heavier.