2018 Yaris SE 5MT - T-Sport w/Valvematic!

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox

the 4AT is much stronger then the CVT why i wanted to use it,
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Edit: Do the scion IM gauges fit on this car those are looking very similar to a certain model that was released in europe, minus the auris hybrid face.
...
edit 2: might have to just bite the bullet for now to get better performance after seeing this thread and seeing how cheap they are, i wanted an AWD ...

If you're going to use the AT from the Yaris then I think you're best bet is an iM ECM; definitely have a look into it. Not sure about the gauges, I use the Yaris gauge cluster. Not sure there's an AWD drivetrain that mates to a ZR engine, that's new territory.

Update on the LTFT: I installed the airflow straightener this afternoon and went for a drive. It looked like the LTFT was getting better as it seemed to float around -17% or so, sometimes getting better, occasionally dropping into the -20s%. I reset the learned values and drove it home from in town... and... it's... -36% again. Poop. So either it was working, and then honking on it flung it into the intake and it's stuck in there against the MAF or throttle body (uh-oh!) or it's not working at all - in fact the door screen actually seemed better at that point, lol.

Still waiting on the OEM MAF to arrive.. fingers crossed.

-- Adam

[DarkShadowFox]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

If you're going to use the AT from the Yaris then I think you're best bet is an iM ECM; definitely have a look into it. Not sure about the gauges, I use the Yaris gauge cluster. Not sure there's an AWD drivetrain that mates to a ZR engine, that's new territory.

Update on the LTFT: I installed the airflow straightener this afternoon and went for a drive. It looked like the LTFT was getting better as it seemed to float around -17% or so, sometimes getting better, occasionally dropping into the -20s%. I reset the learned values and drove it home from in town... and... it's... -36% again. Poop. So either it was working, and then honking on it flung it into the intake and it's stuck in there against the MAF or throttle body (uh-oh!) or it's not working at all - in fact the door screen actually seemed better at that point, lol.

Still waiting on the OEM MAF to arrive.. fingers crossed.

-- Adam

japans auris aka scion IM 2011(huurp i think)-2017 model years gets 4wd optional, what wont the japanese put 4wd on

ITS A BED IT HAS 4wd !!!11111

edit the gauges i am thinking of is a 2017 Sport plus gauge cluster face on an IM Frame.

[atomic_hoji]

Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox

japans auris aka scion IM 2011(huurp i think)-2017 model years gets 4wd optional, what wont the japanese put 4wd on
...

Well that might give you your cake and let you eat it too.

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Regarding the on-going fuel issues - GOOD news... for people who like... GOOD NEWS (for a change).

After the flow straightener seemed to not do too much, I received my used OEM MAF in the mail on Monday and popped it in, reset learned values, etc.. I did a quick run and it seemed to be happier - but then I've thought that before. Over the past week I have seen squat for CEL/MIL and a run into town last night to get gas I found LTFT is both more stable (less variation) and slightly positive (+6% to +8%). I think I can officially say it's a successful 2ZR-FAE swap now.

After all the reading, troubleshooting, checking and double-checking, the problem was an aftermarket - brand new, popular aftermarket brand - MAF that did actually meet the service manual checks, but apparently is calibrated incorrectly or functionally can't meet the specs of the OEM unit. The real kick in the pants is that although I had looked briefly at the time I bought the new MAF, I found this used OEM unit for about half the price too! In this case, the internet is right - pop for an OEM unit, it's really worth it. Too late to return the aftermarket unit, but I've requested a warranty replacement with the hopes that I'll get one that works and can keep it as a backup or sell it.

Never-the-less.. car seems happy. It's funny, it ran noticeably different after changing the MAF - different idle sound and feel. Of course, because fuelling is different and it wasn't revving as much I found myself having to avoid stalling it for the first couple of days, lol - the only upside before replacement, the kick-up in idle revs made it ready for go time off each stop! But, over the week the stupid high revs at idle sorted itself and it hasn't done that in a couple of days either.

Other than a few wiring tidy-up things, the only additional improvement regarding daily driving for the car would be to find a 2017+ Corolla iM that includes TSS-C so the pre-collision system will stop complaining; the ECM has no idea what's talking to it, so it causes issues with the VSC/TRAC - which is actually disabled when a CEL/MIL comes on, so the MAF issue fixed gives VSC/TRAC back now too.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped and/ore encouraged through the whole swap process, the support here is awesome and hugely appreciated.

-- Adam

[DarkShadowFox]

Originally Posted by atomic_hoji

Well that might give you your cake and let you eat it too.

--

Regarding the on-going fuel issues - GOOD news... for people who like... GOOD NEWS (for a change).

After the flow straightener seemed to not do too much, I received my used OEM MAF in the mail on Monday and popped it in, reset learned values, etc.. I did a quick run and it seemed to be happier - but then I've thought that before. Over the past week I have seen squat for CEL/MIL and a run into town last night to get gas I found LTFT is both more stable (less variation) and slightly positive (+6% to +8%). I think I can officially say it's a successful 2ZR-FAE swap now.

After all the reading, troubleshooting, checking and double-checking, the problem was an aftermarket - brand new, popular aftermarket brand - MAF that did actually meet the service manual checks, but apparently is calibrated incorrectly or functionally can't meet the specs of the OEM unit. The real kick in the pants is that although I had looked briefly at the time I bought the new MAF, I found this used OEM unit for about half the price too! In this case, the internet is right - pop for an OEM unit, it's really worth it. Too late to return the aftermarket unit, but I've requested a warranty replacement with the hopes that I'll get one that works and can keep it as a backup or sell it.

Never-the-less.. car seems happy. It's funny, it ran noticeably different after changing the MAF - different idle sound and feel. Of course, because fuelling is different and it wasn't revving as much I found myself having to avoid stalling it for the first couple of days, lol - the only upside before replacement, the kick-up in idle revs made it ready for go time off each stop! But, over the week the stupid high revs at idle sorted itself and it hasn't done that in a couple of days either.

Other than a few wiring tidy-up things, the only additional improvement regarding daily driving for the car would be to find a 2017+ Corolla iM that includes TSS-C so the pre-collision system will stop complaining; the ECM has no idea what's talking to it, so it causes issues with the VSC/TRAC - which is actually disabled when a CEL/MIL comes on, so the MAF issue fixed gives VSC/TRAC back now too.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped and/ore encouraged through the whole swap process, the support here is awesome and hugely appreciated.

-- Adam

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...?siteid=214329

https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/carlist.php?maker=toyota