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Old 08-09-2019, 01:02 AM   #1
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
tmontague,

This is an older post, but I am looking for solutions to protect the paint on my roof and a few other smaller horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling. The color of my car is "Bayou Blue." Can you elaborate more about synthetic wax, why do you say AKA paint sealer? Is it chemically the same as or similar to paint sealer?

Do you think it would do well protecting the paint and underlying body on horizontal areas where the clear coat is peeling?

Any comments from you or others will be appreciated.

Thanks,

R.
I don't think that any wipe-on product is going to help with your issue. Doing decent repairs isn't that difficult. With spray bombs for your base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat like SprayMax a decent job can be achieved. You can feather the repair area into the panel, then clear the entire panel. I'll link you to some repairs I did before I decided to build a booth and paint my whole car. I did these repairs outside and it turned out pretty good. I did get a wee bit of stuff in the clear, but much of it will wetsand and polish out.

Here is a spray bomb of paint:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-...-/252897489304

Touchups on my Yaris. The blending and clear coat starts at post #36:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...t=59471&page=2

Booth building and full repaint:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ht=spray+booth
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/
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Old 08-09-2019, 07:43 PM   #2
RMcG
 
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I don't think that any wipe-on product is going to help with your issue. Doing decent repairs isn't that difficult. With spray bombs for your base coat and a catalyzed 2K clear coat like SprayMax a decent job can be achieved. You can feather the repair area into the panel, then clear the entire panel. I'll link you to some repairs I did before I decided to build a booth and paint my whole car. I did these repairs outside and it turned out pretty good. I did get a wee bit of stuff in the clear, but much of it will wetsand and polish out.

Here is a spray bomb of paint:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Toyota-...-/252897489304

Touchups on my Yaris. The blending and clear coat starts at post #36:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...t=59471&page=2

Booth building and full repaint:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...ht=spray+booth
Thanks 06YarisRS,

Your links look quite interesting and the products do not look pricey. It looks like you did a panel outside, so that is of interest to me, since I do not have a garage. What kind of prep of the old peeling clear coat & paint is needed before putting on the base coat? The actual color of my Yaris is BAYOU BLUE/FB18. Is that color available in a spray bomb?

(I think the spray bomb link in your post is to a slightly different color than mine.)

Thanks,

R.
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Old 08-10-2019, 04:54 PM   #3
06YarisRS
 
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMcG View Post
Thanks 06YarisRS,

Your links look quite interesting and the products do not look pricey. It looks like you did a panel outside, so that is of interest to me, since I do not have a garage. What kind of prep of the old peeling clear coat & paint is needed before putting on the base coat? The actual color of my Yaris is BAYOU BLUE/FB18. Is that color available in a spray bomb?

(I think the spray bomb link in your post is to a slightly different color than mine.)

Thanks,

R.

I would sand all of the peeling clearcoat away and a good inch or two into the good clearcoat. I would also apply a high build primer before the base coat. You'll want to sand with an absolute minimum of 400 - preferably 600 - before spraying the base coat. I would not use anything finer as you are looking for a good mechanical bond. No sanding of the base coat before clear coat and I would apply 3 - 4 coats of base (the first two should literally be dustings as this will help eliminate any adverse reactions between your primer and base) a few minutes apart and within 20 minutes, at least 3 coats of clear, maybe 10 minutes apart, depending on heat and humidity conditions at the time. Oh, an although I'm not a religious type, "cleanliness is next to godliness". Invest in some tack cloths to use between your primer and base, and base and clear. Degrease and tackcloth after sanding primer and tackcloth only between base and clear

What would be most beneficial is if you took pics of all sections concerned and posted them here. That would give a much better idea of approach. I also have some tips that I will share with you if you do this; one of which is laying the metallic base coat in a uniform way with an orientation coat. Metallics look really bad if the flakes aren't evenly dispersed and uniformily oriented. It just too easy to get tiger stripes and blotches that become abundantly apparent, especially in the sunshine.

I could not find any reference to FB18, only Bayou Blue Metallic (8T1).
__________________


2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer
https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 08-10-2019 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 08-11-2019, 10:00 PM   #4
RMcG
 
Drives: Yaris manufactured after 2007
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: North America
Posts: 250
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
I would sand all of the peeling clearcoat away and a good inch or two into the good clearcoat. I would also apply a high build primer before the base coat. You'll want to sand with an absolute minimum of 400 - preferably 600 - before spraying the base coat. I would not use anything finer as you are looking for a good mechanical bond. No sanding of the base coat before clear coat and I would apply 3 - 4 coats of base (the first two should literally be dustings as this will help eliminate any adverse reactions between your primer and base) a few minutes apart and within 20 minutes, at least 3 coats of clear, maybe 10 minutes apart, depending on heat and humidity conditions at the time. Oh, an although I'm not a religious type, "cleanliness is next to godliness". Invest in some tack cloths to use between your primer and base, and base and clear. Degrease and tackcloth after sanding primer and tackcloth only between base and clear

What would be most beneficial is if you took pics of all sections concerned and posted them here. That would give a much better idea of approach. I also have some tips that I will share with you if you do this; one of which is laying the metallic base coat in a uniform way with an orientation coat. Metallics look really bad if the flakes aren't evenly dispersed and uniformily oriented. It just too easy to get tiger stripes and blotches that become abundantly apparent, especially in the sunshine.

I could not find any reference to FB18, only Bayou Blue Metallic (8T1).
Thanks for your reply 06YarisRS,

I have attached pictures. I figured out the Toyota Color code is 8T1, not FB18.

As you can see, in addition to the extensive peeling of the clear coat, the car suffered some damage from a hail storm (some pock marks in the roof and a pock mark with a resulting crease & some rust in a panel over the front passenger window) that I feel I did not have the money to repair. This was the worst hailstorm I have ever experienced: it was like somebody swinging a ball-peen hammer with both hands as hard as they could each time a hail stone hit. It's a wonder it did not do more damage.

Any comments from 06YarisRS or anybody else are would be welcomed.

(P.S. : I have used the convention that "left" and "right" for the vehicle refer to the same left and right of a driver sitting in the car for the titles of the photos, but that may not be relevant, since the titles don't seem to have come through on uploading the photos.)

Thanks,

R.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#1.jpg (284.1 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#2.jpg (357.4 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg CloseupRoof#3-Windshield&FrontOnLeft.jpg (259.6 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Left Side Mid Front Roof.jpg (367.4 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Panel Between Roof & Left Rear Window.jpg (288.3 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Roof and Panel from left.jpg (368.6 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Right front roof & crease from hail stone.jpg (300.5 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Roof & Hail Pockmarks.jpg (321.0 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Roof.jpg (326.8 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Roof-over-rear-window.jpg (289.4 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Left rear panel.jpg (296.3 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Midrear panel.jpg (311.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Right rear panel.jpg (313.8 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg Topview Mirror.jpg (330.9 KB, 53 views)

Last edited by RMcG; 08-11-2019 at 10:10 PM.
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