08 Yaris 'S' Turbo Build

[06YarisRS]

Wow! What a build. Interesting that you're running the Haltech in unison with the factory ECU. I have spoken with Haltech and ECUMaster about their "Black" standalone. I didn't think that there was a Boomslang harness developed for the 1NZ. In my 'budget build' am running the AEM F/IC piggyback which I don't really fancy much. It came with the kit I bought and installed on my swapped 2ZR. This was before I delved into engine management systems for FI cars. I guess you could say the tune is 'safe', but I added my own home built W/M injection system for a little extra security. My car always starts, runs well, but the FIC and stock ECU are often at odds; the factory ECU trying to modify fuel trims. I tried O2 spoofing with marginal success. I would be all ears if you would offer some advice re engine management. All I want to add to my system's ability is some finer closed loop fueling control. I'm happy with everything else. Some day, I would love to build my 2ZR, but that's a little out of my current skill set.

Did you mention which transmission you have and how is it holding up? I did see that you beefed up the flywheel and clutch, so it's manual, but is it the stock c50? I have the U340E auto and it seems to be handling boost with ease, though it can downshift when you don't want it to. Haha. It seems to like full boost from about 50 km/h up. A lighter touch and it may become slightly confused.

[scarsofcarma]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Looks great! I haven't been following the new Solo classes but it's cool to see a new place for highly modified setups with FI.

I'm in the process of upgrading my 07 sedan from XP in Solo to STL in SCCA Club racing. My most recent upgrade was the NRG SFI-rated quick release and the super-short hub. Really easy to release the wheel with one hand, super simple to install.

Yep I was pleased with the NRG SFI-rated quick release the first time I tried it... which was on my last Miata auto-x build last year before I sold it. Once the Yaris was ready for auto-x a couple months ago it was a no-brainer to get another one.

I have had some fancier, more expensive quick release hubs on other builds before this new NRG one came out. They were nice, but really, so long as its easy to remove and doesn't have play how much do you really need to spend on a quick release? lol

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

I just scored the rear beam from a 3rd gen SE hatch with the intentions of trying it on the 2ZR Vios. Feedback from the resident SCCA Club guy (Jason@Sportcar) is that the stock setup doesn't benefit from rear discs since most of the braking is up front anyway, and the OEM rear balance isn't set up for discs. The speed you'd carry into a corner with 200+ whp may change the need for them though. In theory I'll see if it fits over this winter and (hopefully) document it. The pads themselves are TINY, even by subcompact car standards. I haven't looked at other options for bigger calipers or rotors yet, but that's worth investigating.

That's rad thanks a lot for guinea-pigging the idea. That was gonna be one of the first things I searched for on this forum.

Yes that's correct about the brake balance. In general FWD's are much heavier on their front brakes. With a drum brake system especially, (which usually use a different proportioning valve) you would end up with weird initial rearward brake bias if you converted it to discs without changing that valve. But I have not yet researched what Toyota does specifically for these cars in terms of proportioning or brake bias valves.

In the past on track vehicles with older ABS systems I have sometimes converted to non ABS. I have also played with manual proportioning valves. My last turbo Miata had one of those because I swapped on big Wilwoods up front and larger rear rotors + calipers in the rear.

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Wow! What a build. Interesting that you're running the Haltech in unison with the factory ECU. I have spoken with Haltech and ECUMaster about their "Black" standalone. I didn't think that there was a Boomslang harness developed for the 1NZ. In my 'budget build' am running the AEM F/IC piggyback which I don't really fancy much. It came with the kit I bought and installed on my swapped 2ZR. This was before I delved into engine management systems for FI cars. I guess you could say the tune is 'safe', but I added my own home built W/M injection system for a little extra security. My car always starts, runs well, but the FIC and stock ECU are often at odds; the factory ECU trying to modify fuel trims. I tried O2 spoofing with marginal success. I would be all ears if you would offer some advice re engine management. All I want to add to my system's ability is some finer closed loop fueling control. I'm happy with everything else. Some day, I would love to build my 2ZR, but that's a little out of my current skill set.

Did you mention which transmission you have and how is it holding up? I did see that you beefed up the flywheel and clutch, so it's manual, but is it the stock c50? I have the U340E auto and it seems to be handling boost with ease, though it can downshift when you don't want it to. Haha. It seems to like full boost from about 50 km/h up. A lighter touch and it may become slightly confused.

Hi, yes I have already been reading your thread about your home built water injection system. I was planning to chat with you about that at some point.

Piggyback ECU's are always a little harder to get exactly what you want out of them. On some older RX7's I've played with, the best way to get those working was to chip the base ECU with a different MAP and then use the piggyback to help manage and fine tune that new MAP. Without that new base MAP the stock ECU may never really achieve a happy closed loop. I never really noticed much difference on an RX7 anyway with the terrible gas mileage they usually get, but my current Yaris is not so great in that department either

If anything I wanna get a little less conservative with the tune now that I know it survived the dyno tuning in the hopes of a few more mpg for highway cruising.

The thing is, certain standalones self-learn. For megasquirt they call it 'auto-tune' and that is where your good closed loop running comes from. On Haltech (at least at the time this one was purchased) they didn't have that feature built in yet but it was in the works. (Perhaps they have it now so I should look into updating my software).

At the time my Yaris was tuned the dyno tuner was literally pushing a button to permit the tune to adjust itself during steady-state tuning on the dyno. Over and over again periodically. It runs well enough, but my setup depends on the wideband sensor in a critical way. If it gets out of adjustment too far (and they all do with enough age and miles on em) the tune starts to get wonky. So that is another thing you have to live with using an aftermarket standalone.

As I learn more about this EFI standalone tuning stuff I will try and be more helpful with suggestions to help your system run better. I am still reading books about it at present, although books seems to be going out of style everything new seems to be you tube videos.

I laughed when you mentioned the transmission. I worry about it constantly. It is still the stock box yes. Just today I drained out the REDLINE MTL and swapped in a little thicker REDLINE MT-90 hoping to smooth out my 1st gear synchro issue. So far that's the only issue... and auto-x is really tough on that first gear downshift. I have to be really quick with the rev-matching and heal-and-toe.

Not all of the synchro issues was caused by my driving though, the first owner of the Yaris was kinda hard on that. I got it to go away with REDLINE fluid but now that its turbo'd it's come back with a vengeance. I may have to swap the transmission out if it gets too much worse.

Maybe a rebuild or another transmission may prevent it from happening again, but I have no way of knowing that until I try. Cryogenically treating the gears in addition to isotropic superfinishing would probably be the only way to really strengthen and improve the durability of this transmission. That gets pricy so here's hoping that's not necessary *crosses-fingers*

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by scarsofcarma

Yep I was pleased with the NRG SFI-rated quick release the first time I tried it... which was on my last Miata auto-x build last year before I sold it. Once the Yaris was ready for auto-x a couple months ago it was a no-brainer to get another one.

I have had some fancier, more expensive quick release hubs on other builds before this new NRG one came out. They were nice, but really, so long as its easy to remove and doesn't have play how much do you really need to spend on a quick release? lol



That's rad thanks a lot for guinea-pigging the idea. That was gonna be one of the first things I searched for on this forum.

Yes that's correct about the brake balance. In general FWD's are much heavier on their front brakes. With a drum brake system especially, (which usually use a different proportioning valve) you would end up with weird initial rearward brake bias if you converted it to discs without changing that valve. But I have not yet researched what Toyota does specifically for these cars in terms of proportioning or brake bias valves.

In the past on track vehicles with older ABS systems I have sometimes converted to non ABS. I have also played with manual proportioning valves. My last turbo Miata had one of those because I swapped on big Wilwoods up front and larger rear rotors + calipers in the rear.



Hi, yes I have already been reading your thread about your home built water injection system. I was planning to chat with you about that at some point.

Piggyback ECU's are always a little harder to get exactly what you want out of them. On some older RX7's I've played with, the best way to get those working was to chip the base ECU with a different MAP and then use the piggyback to help manage and fine tune that new MAP. Without that new base MAP the stock ECU may never really achieve a happy closed loop. I never really noticed much difference on an RX7 anyway with the terrible gas mileage they usually get, but my current Yaris is not so great in that department either

If anything I wanna get a little less conservative with the tune now that I know it survived the dyno tuning in the hopes of a few more mpg for highway cruising.

The thing is, certain standalones self-learn. For megasquirt they call it 'auto-tune' and that is where your good closed loop running comes from. On Haltech (at least at the time this one was purchased) they didn't have that feature built in yet but it was in the works. (Perhaps they have it now so I should look into updating my software).

At the time my Yaris was tuned the dyno tuner was literally pushing a button to permit the tune to adjust itself during steady-state tuning on the dyno. Over and over again periodically. It runs well enough, but my setup depends on the wideband sensor in a critical way. If it gets out of adjustment too far (and they all do with enough age and miles on em) the tune starts to get wonky. So that is another thing you have to live with using an aftermarket standalone.

As I learn more about this EFI standalone tuning stuff I will try and be more helpful with suggestions to help your system run better. I am still reading books about it at present, although books seems to be going out of style everything new seems to be you tube videos.

I laughed when you mentioned the transmission. I worry about it constantly. It is still the stock box yes. Just today I drained out the REDLINE MTL and swapped in a little thicker REDLINE MT-90 hoping to smooth out my 1st gear synchro issue. So far that's the only issue... and auto-x is really tough on that first gear downshift. I have to be really quick with the rev-matching and heal-and-toe.

Not all of the synchro issues was caused by my driving though, the first owner of the Yaris was kinda hard on that. I got it to go away with REDLINE fluid but now that its turbo'd it's come back with a vengeance. I may have to swap the transmission out if it gets too much worse.

Maybe a rebuild or another transmission may prevent it from happening again, but I have no way of knowing that until I try. Cryogenically treating the gears in addition to isotropic superfinishing would probably be the only way to really strengthen and improve the durability of this transmission. That gets pricy so here's hoping that's not necessary *crosses-fingers*

Thanks much for the detailed reply. You have me intrigued regarding the MegaSquirt "auto tuning" feature. I wonder if it would be a good alternative to the F/IC. That way, I could leave all the other peripherals to the stock ecu. Do you think the MS would grab ahold and take command of the fueling, or would I still need a chipped stock ecu such that the stock ecu would refrain from attempting to alter the trims?

I had been speaking with an outfit that would explore my ecu in terms of what could be changed. Clearly they could not tell me much until they got into it. I believe it was a couple hundred bucks to investigate and I'd have to send my ecu. I figured I'd just buy another one and have it shipped directly to them. Maybe I ought to pursue that avenue.

As I have work early, I will respond to your other comments tomorrow. All, very interesting.

May I say that it's a wonderful thing to have you join us here on yarisworld. Welcome, welcome, welcome!