I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by camelll

Focus shift are you not seeing open loop at all? Do you have a manual or automatic?

I have an automatic and am not seeing open loop at all (as per Scangauge). The only time I enter open loop is early idling, and taking my foot off the throttle entirely.

Also - the reason I feel stoich may actually be alright is because there is no detonation, and IAT is always close to the ambient outside temp...

eTiMaGo, currently reading through those threads, but I had a thought. Does the ECU need to pass ALL the parameters to enter open loop? Because if not, there is probably a MAF voltage value whereby the ECU determines open loop is needed. If that's the case, a MAF clamp can be set up on the FIC at that value from where boost kicks in.

^^^ I feel the above may be possible due to the manner in which the Blitz fuel controller is hooked up, but 75% throttle might still be needed...

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

...and IAT is always close to the ambient outside temp...

Just remember, that reading is BEFORE the turbo. The air going into the engine is actually a lot hotter.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Yeah sorry, disregard that.

Looking at those excel sheets, it's pretty aparent 75% throttle plays a large role in changing to open loop. MAF reading seems to be pretty irrelevant, so my previous idea is (most likely) not going to work.

However, what if we mapped the TPS to one of the analog signals of the FIC? Then, could we possibly manipulate that signal to 75%? That would force open loop... This is probably way oversimplified and I'm sure there would be multiple other issues including a CEL.

eTiMaGo, we're going to figure this out this time around. I need my car running safely, and that turbo ain't coming out.

[cali yaris]

we're going to figure this out this time around. I need my car running safely, and that turbo ain't coming out.

That's the spirit

[eTiMaGo]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

However, what if we mapped the TPS to one of the analog signals of the FIC? Then, could we possibly manipulate that signal to 75%? That would force open loop... This is probably way oversimplified and I'm sure there would be multiple other issues including a CEL.

Sounds like quite the recipe for unintended acceleration!!!

eTiMaGo, we're going to figure this out this time around. I need my car running safely, and that turbo ain't coming out.

sir yes sir! but keep in mind all I can offer is theoretical, we need all the experience amassed over the past few years from our 1NZ gurus

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by eTiMaGo

Sounds like quite the recipe for unintended acceleration!!!

sir yes sir! but keep in mind all I can offer is theoretical, we need all the experience amassed over the past few years from our 1NZ gurus

Agreed, I'm hoping others with some knowledge will chime in with ideas. I'm really hoping to get this working with the FIC, and I know we can do it...

Regarding the unintended acceleration, I don't think that would happen. The actual throttle plate would be at less than 75%, but the ECU would think it's time for open loop and give us fueling control. We could clamp the MAF if necessary as well.

But I can see what you're saying... If the ECU sees an open throttle, it would increase the engine speed right? I need to look at the service manuals a bit more...

When I get the chance, the first thing I'm doing is fooling around with the O2 sensors.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I don't think you can do that with TBW. If the ECU sees more than what's input and the output of the throttle plate doesn't match, it'll go into failsafe.

[eTiMaGo]

another (cheaper) piece of electronics to fiddle around with the MAF signal in open loop, the HKS AFR (Air Fuel Regulator). Very simple little box with a dial for the degree of adjustment of the MAF signal (leaner or richer). Nowhere as precise as a proper piggyback, as there is no RPM-specific or throttle-specific arrangement, but it could work well to get an *overall* richer or leaner fuel mix while in open loop, similar effect to getting bigger injectors, I suppose!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

No updates on tuning unfortunately, haven't had time to deal with it yet. However, I did redo my oil pan as per Garm's observation about the removable stems. No leaks from it now

Unbelievably though, I'm now back to dealing with coolant leaks. I don't know what the hell I'm doing wrong. I switched to M12 adapters that fit on the turbo VERY snug, but yet they still leak! I was so pissed when I noticed this yesterday, because I really don't know where to go from here. I'm thinking about just yanking water cooling

The only thought I had was that the hole on the adapters is too small and is creating a huge pressure buildup, which causes the coolant to back out through the threads. I have some pictures, but they suck. Basically, the diameter of the holes is about half of the lines I'm using. The adapters were really meant to be used for getting a pressure reading for a gauge. What do you guys think?

This is all getting incredibly frustrating... I just don't have time to deal with this BS over and over again with my classes. Oh, and I'm not even going to begin on how impossible it was to get those stems off. Unless you have an M4 female torx socket, you're practically SOL.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Oh yeah also - read somewhere (MI?) that a 10% underdrive pulley decreases max boost obtainable or something?

Explain?

[eTiMaGo]

only for a supercharger, which is belt-driven ;)

[cali yaris]

underdrive pulley makes the supercharger pulley turn more slowly, DEcreasing boost.

no worries for you.

just YANK the water cooling and add it later. Just means you have to idle the car when you park it for now. Minimize your frustration!

[sleey0]

So if u yank the water cooling won't it overheat?

[why?]

Originally Posted by sleey0

So if u yank the water cooling won't it overheat?

it is also oil cooled, the water cooling was just a backup so you could abuse the turbo and not worry.

[Parmas]

As I was reading the last 2 pages it seems like there is a big ? on O2 Control, Open/ Closed loop etc...

Since now I am studying into standalone ecu management systems all this big questions aren't a taboo for me anymore.

The only issue with the information I am going to mention is that eventually I don't know for sure if the Toyota Stock Ecu works exactly the same but at least you can have something to refer on man

Below is a tab of information on my Platinum Sport ecu for my wideband. All settings are critical to have a good working engine at all conditions :


1. There are two types, Wideband and Narrowband. Usually wideband sensors are able to adjust fuel at higher rpm than narrow band


2. Target Voltage

- Only valid for Narrowband sensors. This is the sensor voltage that the ECU will try to target. This should be between the two voltages that the sensor outputs for below stoichiometric and above stoichiometric. Setting this target too close to either of these voltages may lead the controller to not function.

3. Idle Target Voltage

- Only valid for Narrowband sensors. This is usually set slightly higher than the above target voltage to help richen the idle mixtures to aid in idle smoothness.

4. Maximum Increase

- Maximum percentage increase in fuel that is allowed by the O2 controller. (Max 25%).

5. Maximum Decrease

- Maximum percentage decrease in fuel that is allowed by the O2 controller. (Max 25%).

6. Proportional Control

- This value alters the gain or sensitivity of the controller. The Proportional Control affect the sensitvity of the short term control.

7. Integral Control

- This value alters the gain or sensitivity of the controller. The Integral Control affect the sensitivity of the long term trim.

8. Sample Rate

- The rate at which the controller will read the O2 sensor and calculate the correction when above the idle RPM. If this is set too fast, the controller will over-react and a very unstable control will result. If this is set too slow, then the O2 controller will be slow to move towards its target and may not achieve the slight oscillations that are desirable.

9. Idle Sample Rate

- The rate at which the controller will read the O2 sensor and calculate the correction when below the idle RPM. If this is set too fast, the controller will over-react and a very unstable control will result. If this is set too slow, then the O2 controller will be slow to move towards its target and may not achieve the slight oscillations that are desirable.

10. Post Start Delay

- A cold O2 sensor voltage reading is always low. Set this value so that the sensor has enough time to reach operating temperature.

11. Delay Till Control

- This setting will delay when the closed loop O2 control will start when all the conditions are met. This helps the controller stop cutting in and out when on the border of one of the conditions that need to be satisfied.

12. Lower RPM

- The minimum RPM at which O2 control will happen. If this value is greater than this value then O2 control at idle will be disabled.

13. Idle RPM

- When the engine speed is below this value and there is zero throttle then the O2 Target Idle Voltage is used. To disable the use of this parameter then set it lower than the Low RPM value.

14. Upper RPM

- The maximum RPM at which O2 control will happen. Having O2 control off at RPM may be desirable if you are running a narrow band sensor.

15. Operating Temperature

- O2 control will only work above this coolant temperature.

16. Limit Select

- Choose if TPS or MAP sensor or Both will disable O2 control. If set to Both, then only one condition has to fail for O2 control to be disabled.

17. MAP Limit

- If load select is MAP or both, any MAP senor reading above this value disables O2 control.

18. Throttle Limit

- If load select is TPS or both, any throttle position above this percentage disables O2 control

Regarding open/closed loop situation. If one of these settings are above or below limits the system begins to get reference on a fuel basemap set by a tuner and that would be open loop. If all is within range then you are closed loop.

As I said, Toyota could have different, less or more settings in their own ecu so just keep this info just for your reference on not a 100% info yours works exactly with the same setup.

Cheers

[cali yaris]

There are two types, Wideband and Narrowband. Usually wideband sensors are able to adjust fuel at higher rpm than narrow band

Sensors don't adjust anything?

[eTiMaGo]

I think he meant "detect", in terms of giving more accurate information in order to make adjustments :)

[cali yaris]

Wideband is faster sampling for one thing, therefore more responsive on the gauge. Maybe he meant that.