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03-19-2013, 04:37 PM | #19 | |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
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03-19-2013, 11:49 PM | #20 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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03-21-2013, 12:53 PM | #21 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Can anyone pls guide me as to which "colder" spark plugs do i need?
May be someone knows the part number? Thanks |
03-21-2013, 01:36 PM | #22 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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03-21-2013, 01:37 PM | #23 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Blitz says to run plugs that are one step cooler than the stock (NGK BKR5EIX is equivalent to stock), suck as the NGK BKR6EIX. I run NGK BKR7EIX, which are two steps cooler.
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03-21-2013, 01:39 PM | #24 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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Noob question but what exactly are colder plugs for and why only for F/I? Because of the extra heat generated by the increase in explosions? And what would be the reason going one step vs two steps colder or vice versa?
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03-21-2013, 01:55 PM | #25 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...k_plugs/p2.asp
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03-21-2013, 02:05 PM | #26 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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Very nice thanks ^^^ makes sense
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03-21-2013, 07:46 PM | #27 |
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,333
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Damn, more things for the S/C shopping basket. Good to know up front, though!
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03-21-2013, 09:28 PM | #28 | |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Quote:
^ I already stopped even worrying for anything less than 50 bucks )) (new belt, spark plugs, hoses/silicone couplings, new bearing for a pulley plus installation (do not have a press) - decided to change it as well, etc.) ))))))) |
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03-23-2013, 12:20 PM | #29 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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03-23-2013, 12:21 PM | #30 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Would not dare drilling it - looking too good )) Just used the Y-splitter for one of the existing vacuum tubes.
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03-23-2013, 12:33 PM | #31 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Question re AFR pls and further steps
Before SC the car would pretty much always run at around 14.4- 14.5 AFR, exception being only prolonged accellerations up the hill (I live in Canada) during which occasions AFR would "drop" to may be 12-13. After SC - SC NOT ENGAGED: prettu much the same as before - SC ENGAGED: durring acceleration under 3-4k RPM - AFR between 14 and 14.5; during "pedel to the metal" type accellerations at RPMs above 3-4 k, the AFR would drop to some value between 11 ans 13. I bought NGK6 colder spark plugs and will install them today. Question: what else do I need to do, pls? Thanks for opinions P. |
03-23-2013, 12:34 PM | #32 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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Ps: my AFR sensor is installed between the first and second cats - I know - not the best way of doing this but still. Kind suspect it would be sort of biased towards lean readings.
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03-23-2013, 03:00 PM | #33 |
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Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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^ That's where the second O2 sensor goes -- where is that sensor? Or do you have two bungs in a row now?
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
03-23-2013, 03:45 PM | #34 |
Drives: soarer Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beautiful British Columbia
Posts: 954
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I have a second bung welded near the second OEM sensor. Not one after another though
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