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Old 09-04-2018, 09:27 AM   #145
xDiiThy
 
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Hey Guys!

I have a 2013 Yaris and am looking at boosting as well! Looks like the Zage kit I might as well skip and go get a custom kit. These 2013 yaris are still running the 1.5L 1NZFE's
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Old 09-13-2018, 06:31 PM   #146
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is this 4AT U340E/U341F safe? someone told me the trans can handle an extra 50-100 hp. :T
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Old 05-07-2020, 10:00 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna View Post
No problem. I wasn't sure if you were looking for the install guide pics, or other pics in this thread.
btw little update...
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:15 AM   #148
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btw little update...
Nice!
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Old 05-24-2020, 02:22 PM   #149
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Did a last minute look over yesterday as well as an oil & plug change. Car is set for drop off for tune the weekend of June 1st. *crosses fingers*

*edit* the wiper arms where installed incorrectly by the shop that worked on it last. They have been swapped since this picture.
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Old 05-24-2020, 04:17 PM   #150
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I bet you're getting excited for June 1.
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:40 PM   #151
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I bet you're getting excited for June 1.
Hell yeah
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:42 PM   #152
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Nice. Take some videos of the dyno tune pulls.
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:57 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkShadowFox View Post
is this 4AT U340E/U341F safe? someone told me the trans can handle an extra 50-100 hp. :T
When I was investigating turboing my 2zr-swapped Yaris, I made inquiries at Monkey Wrench racing and Turbokits. The impression I got from those outfits is that the U340 is good for up to 275 HP crank. Frankly, I would be very surprised if it could handle that much power. There was no mention of torque capacity. I bought an SAE paper on the U340E. It gives a figure of 150NM as the capacity which roughly translates to 110 ft/lbs. I expect that's just based up on what the 1.5 produces and does not represent the max capacity. I am not easy on mine, though I don't do burnouts and I installed a thermostatically-controlled fan and cooler. Even under boost the fluid stays in the 180 - 190 range and I have detected zero slipping. I do change my transmission fluid a lot more than recommended, not that it needs it but I like to give it the best fighting chance. Sometimes the shift might be rough when downshifting from OD. I like to manually shift from third to forth as I can keep it in the power band better and it makes for smoother shifting. Sorry, for being so long-winded, but I thought I'd give you my experiences with the trans.
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Old 05-28-2020, 12:33 AM   #154
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Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna View Post
Nice. Take some videos of the dyno tune pulls.
IF I'm their most definitely. I'm dropping it off Friday. They have the call all weekend. I'm still working so chance that I might not see it and or don't forget it's a ground up haltech tune. Then I gotta break everything in.. 😂
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Old 05-28-2020, 05:17 AM   #155
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IF I'm their most definitely. I'm dropping it off Friday. They have the call all weekend. I'm still working so chance that I might not see it and or don't forget it's a ground up haltech tune. Then I gotta break everything in.. 😂
So I'm guessing it's like my friend's C6 Z06 with a supercharger. Base tune at first. Drive around for 500 miles or so to break everything in, and then go back to retune with higher psi???
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Old 05-28-2020, 09:21 AM   #156
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So I'm guessing it's like my friend's C6 Z06 with a supercharger. Base tune at first. Drive around for 500 miles or so to break everything in, and then go back to retune with higher psi???
Exactly, I have an engine, 1.5 Way Differential & clutch to break in.
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Old 05-29-2020, 03:53 PM   #157
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Exactly, I have an engine, 1.5 Way Differential & clutch to break in.
So it'll be more than 500 miles to break everything in for you
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Old 05-29-2020, 05:52 PM   #158
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So it'll be more than 500 miles to break everything in for you
Ehh toughest part Is the figure 8's for the Kaaz. Everything else is just normal driving. Half hour of figure 8's accelerating straights coasting turns.
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Old 05-31-2020, 01:11 AM   #159
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Ehh toughest part Is the figure 8's for the Kaaz. Everything else is just normal driving. Half hour of figure 8's accelerating straights coasting turns.
Yeah, that's tough to do without attracting unwanted attention. Any private lot owners nearby that you can talk to and ask if you can do some 8s there (of course explaining why you have to)?

Did Kaaz say roughly how wide of a radius the 8s have to be?
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Old 02-06-2022, 04:36 PM   #160
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Hey YW! Been quite awhile.

I wanted to share some FIC knowledge, as I recently ran into the dreaded stalling while idling/stalling while coming to a stop/stutter on rapid acceleration changes. What ultimately worked for me: change the cam and crank wires to tap only. So, MAGI+ and MAGI- are taps, and MAGO+ and MAGO- are unused. You'll still get RPM readings, however you'll lose ignition control (which I'm guessing isn't used for most applications anyway). Read on for more details -

Some background: I was one of the first to install the Zage turbo kit, way back in 2010. I tuned on the fic using open loop (both o2 sensors pulled) and ran that setup daily for 7 years before finally retiring the Yaris from daily duties. I had two issues with the fic during that time: the onboard pressure sensor failed (I ended up hooking up an external pressure sensor to the maf input of the fic) and the eeprom would no longer hold the tune when powered down (not a big deal, just rewired the fic to be connected to a +12v line rather than acc).

Late last year, I converted the Yaris from AT to MT. The whole thing went pretty well aside from the aforementioned issues starting. I did a ton of rework while I had the engine apart, including running grounds into the cabin for a killswitch and completely overhauling the vacuum setup to use a junction block (which was previously tees with tees with tees; I learned a lot these last 10 years, haha) and a recirculating bov. Naturally, I thought the issues were caused by something I had done. This led me down some rabbit holes...

First up was P0606. On first start, this code was set immediately. With the AT (which used an 08 ECU btw), I only ever had P0037. This manual ECU was an 07, so I thought different firmware with potentially slightly different error handling logic means potentially a different (but related) code could get set instead. This seemed reasonable given P0606 is generally either o2/throttle/ecu. Putting the o2 sensors back in with the fic bypassed didn't solve it. Nor did replacing the ecu with another 07. All readings from the throttle were within range. I still have this code - however at this point, I have to conclude this was not related to my problems at all.

My next thought was this had to be a vacuum leak. I had no evidence for this, and in fact, I was pulling perfect vacuum during idle. During vacuum tests, I noticed my brake booster was leaking during braking. I was certain this was the problem, as the car would stumble and recover on braking when running a bypassed fic with o2 sensors in, but would pretty consistently stall with the fic in and no o2 sensors. My thought was closed loop fueling was able to compensate for this conditional vacuum leak.

Replacing the booster didn't do it. I fumbled for awhile before remembering many people having trouble getting the fic working. I was fortunate to not be one of those at the time, but not only did I now have an MT ecu (I don't think anyone else turboed an AT at the time), I also had a different model year. Perhaps it was the interplay between the fic and new ecu? I zeroed out the maps and put the o2 sensors back in. The engine warmed up and began stumbling. Sure enough.

I tried all sorts of configurations in the fic, including trying all the firmwares, with no luck. After some reading, I was certain the resistor mod was going to do it, but nope. Still, I was now convinced this was my issue - the fic doing incorrect things with the cam/crank signals. It seemed if the fic wasn't intercepting signals, it likely wouldn't be able to manipulate them. There was also the concern if a tap would be enough to read rpm, as that was tuned against. I gave it a shot and fired it up - perfect idle. Took the car out and did some hard pulls - completely smooth. Finally.

It's hard to believe I've had this car for over 14 years... So much living has happened during that time. One thing is for sure; I wish I hadn't waited 14 years to swap in a manual. The Yaris was fun before, but now it's an absolute riot.

I'm sure I've said it before, but it's obviously been awhile so I'll say it again - thank you. This community got me to where I am today.

See you all in another 10 years. ;)
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Old 02-06-2022, 08:14 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft View Post
Hey YW! Been quite awhile.

I wanted to share some FIC knowledge, as I recently ran into the dreaded stalling while idling/stalling while coming to a stop/stutter on rapid acceleration changes. What ultimately worked for me: change the cam and crank wires to tap only. So, MAGI+ and MAGI- are taps, and MAGO+ and MAGO- are unused. You'll still get RPM readings, however you'll lose ignition control (which I'm guessing isn't used for most applications anyway). Read on for more details -

Some background: I was one of the first to install the Zage turbo kit, way back in 2010. I tuned on the fic using open loop (both o2 sensors pulled) and ran that setup daily for 7 years before finally retiring the Yaris from daily duties. I had two issues with the fic during that time: the onboard pressure sensor failed (I ended up hooking up an external pressure sensor to the maf input of the fic) and the eeprom would no longer hold the tune when powered down (not a big deal, just rewired the fic to be connected to a +12v line rather than acc).

Late last year, I converted the Yaris from AT to MT. The whole thing went pretty well aside from the aforementioned issues starting. I did a ton of rework while I had the engine apart, including running grounds into the cabin for a killswitch and completely overhauling the vacuum setup to use a junction block (which was previously tees with tees with tees; I learned a lot these last 10 years, haha) and a recirculating bov. Naturally, I thought the issues were caused by something I had done. This led me down some rabbit holes...

First up was P0606. On first start, this code was set immediately. With the AT (which used an 08 ECU btw), I only ever had P0037. This manual ECU was an 07, so I thought different firmware with potentially slightly different error handling logic means potentially a different (but related) code could get set instead. This seemed reasonable given P0606 is generally either o2/throttle/ecu. Putting the o2 sensors back in with the fic bypassed didn't solve it. Nor did replacing the ecu with another 07. All readings from the throttle were within range. I still have this code - however at this point, I have to conclude this was not related to my problems at all.

My next thought was this had to be a vacuum leak. I had no evidence for this, and in fact, I was pulling perfect vacuum during idle. During vacuum tests, I noticed my brake booster was leaking during braking. I was certain this was the problem, as the car would stumble and recover on braking when running a bypassed fic with o2 sensors in, but would pretty consistently stall with the fic in and no o2 sensors. My thought was closed loop fueling was able to compensate for this conditional vacuum leak.

Replacing the booster didn't do it. I fumbled for awhile before remembering many people having trouble getting the fic working. I was fortunate to not be one of those at the time, but not only did I now have an MT ecu (I don't think anyone else turboed an AT at the time), I also had a different model year. Perhaps it was the interplay between the fic and new ecu? I zeroed out the maps and put the o2 sensors back in. The engine warmed up and began stumbling. Sure enough.

I tried all sorts of configurations in the fic, including trying all the firmwares, with no luck. After some reading, I was certain the resistor mod was going to do it, but nope. Still, I was now convinced this was my issue - the fic doing incorrect things with the cam/crank signals. It seemed if the fic wasn't intercepting signals, it likely wouldn't be able to manipulate them. There was also the concern if a tap would be enough to read rpm, as that was tuned against. I gave it a shot and fired it up - perfect idle. Took the car out and did some hard pulls - completely smooth. Finally.

It's hard to believe I've had this car for over 14 years... So much living has happened during that time. One thing is for sure; I wish I hadn't waited 14 years to swap in a manual. The Yaris was fun before, but now it's an absolute riot.

I'm sure I've said it before, but it's obviously been awhile so I'll say it again - thank you. This community got me to where I am today.

See you all in another 10 years. ;)
Interesting reading! Looking forward to spring when I can resume work on my car. I have been considering an alternative to the FIC for one reason - long hot starts. If it's cool out or even really freezing, the car starts immediately on a key turn. If the engine is warm or it's a hot day, it cranks and cranks before it will start. I have adjusted the fuel table in the startup rpm range, no luck. I initially thought it had to do with overfueling, but now wonder if it's related to crank position, though I don't know what that would have to do with termperature. Otherwise the car runs great. I didn't wire in my cams at all.
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