Sub box idea... thoughts?

[DFA]

Well, I finally got around to doing all the wiring and setting up my RF P3 shallow sub, and it's being powered by a TMA 500.1 amp, which I just threw on my trunk and have been testing for about a week.

I realize driving around with an unfastened amp (and sub box) is a general hazard, so I thought about just ditching the hatch false floor and the side boxes under it, and just make some room for the amp and some tools, together with the sub to stealth it up a bit, and have my trunk more organized overall.

What I have in mind is a box the size of the hatch false floor, with a little compartment for the amp under a hinged 'door' with fans on it to keep it cool, and another compartment on the right for emergency tools, bottle jack, etc, and of course a 1cu.ft space (reccomended size by manufacturer) in the center for the sub to go in. I haven't gone out and taken exact measures of the hatch for this, right now I'm just brainstorming.

I sketched it up real quick to have an idea, here it is:



Big circle is the 12" sub, and the smaller black circles are 12cm fans. All of this, of course, will be nicely wrapped in black carpet.

I have a question tho, Is there any way to power the fans from the +12 line going to the amp, instead of having to power it off another +12V line somewhere else? or would this just equal an instantly burnt fan (and fuse)?

[talnlnky]

DO NOT run your fans off the remote turn on wire, that will fry the turn on circuit in your deck

I'd advise running a new circuit off (run of wire) off your distro-block, fat speaker wire (like 14awg or 12awg will be good.
Technically it should be fused (small fuse, like 1-2 amps, figure out what your fans will be drawing, then do a fuse around that amount)
You will want to pick up a BOSH style auto relay.

The relay will be connected to both the power wires for the fans, and the remote turn on wire. When the deck sends signal to the remote turn on wire to turn on the amps, the relay will also get the signal. The relay will flip a switch, and open the electrical floodgates to your fans.

Check your sub.. if the back/bottom has the little air hole, also known as a pole vent (used for cooling)... you'll want to be sure your sub has at least 1/2" (aim for 1") of clearance behind it and the bottom of your box...

[DFA]

Well, when I said running them off the +12 line, I was referring to the amp's +12 power input, so I guess I at least was on the right track somehow :)

About the pole vent, I checked the box I'm currently running the sub in, and it's pretty much sitting agaist the bottom of the box, dunno if that means the guy who made it is an idiot or he did his research (most likely the former.. since it does have a hole on the back.)

I'll look into the relay thing, I guess by not being specific about which +12 line I meant, you just gave me one hell of an idea :)
thanks for the input

[sadha]

Also dont forget a handle, You will need one to reach for your spare tyre.
On my setup I have removed the two side boxes and the floor board and had a box and side panels custom built. It looks nice, the only problem is when you want adjust your amp, its a but of a mission.

[DFA]

ok, v2.0



Measured the false floor at 39.25"x20.25", designed the box for these same dimensions, it's 7" deep. Added convenience handle.

Inside sub box volume is 1.09cubic feet, manufacturer recommends 1.071, I think it's close enough. If not, I could easily make adjustments for it

I have a question tho, it might be kind of a "duuuhhh" thing, but I'm asking just to be sure :), the hatch will almost certainly be exposed to wet stuff sometime down the road (condensation from groceries, beer crates, etc), it's not like I'm planning on dumping buckets of water in my hatch for fun, but still,
Could this somehow affect my setup? I realize the sub box is airtight and all connections will be out of the way, I'm guessing the amp is more in danger in this situation, with the fans being on top of the lid, but I just wanted to make sure.