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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Corolla Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 325
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#2 |
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TRIM HUNTER
Drives: 2007 BLAZIN BLUE YARIS 3 DR Join Date: May 2006
Location: ROCKLAND COUNTY NY
Posts: 2,088
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DON'T NEED NO STINKiN TACH, ive gotten used to listening to my motor......
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http://rocklandtoyota.com/IFrame.aspx?iFrameID=2388 TOYOTA PARTS AT A DISCOUNT........ |
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#3 | |
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As for PK's (?) numbers being different from the owner's manual... well, that was just HIS preference. We all shift at different speeds. Also, i believe the original queston (sort of, as it was more like TWO parts) was... I'd like to know how fast I can go in each gear in order to achieve maximum acceleration. You wont achieve max accel from redlining these motors. |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, 09 Z51 'Vette Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 100
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I put little marks on the face of the speedometer on my 1997 Tacoma 2wd. I used the stick on "pin striping" tape that I bought for a couple of bucks somewhere. I marked it per the "maximum shift points" in the owner's manual. It worked fine. |
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#5 | |
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Oh, also. I believe the manual calls for 1,000 MILES break in distance. The sad part, they mention, is you can't just take a long drive, or keep it at certain speed for "extended periods" or something like that. So my idea of a Vegas trip to break it in was thrown out the window. booooo. LOL |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, 09 Z51 'Vette Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 100
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I'd love to see you prove that empirically.
Peak HP occurs at 6,000 RPM. Redline occurs at 6,500 RPM. You'll want to shift at or near red-line for peak performance, even though engine horsepower falls off after 6,000 RPM. Why? Because doing so will put the engine closer to its horsepower peak in the next gear (immediately after the up-shift) while ensuring peak obtainable drive-wheel torque at all vehicle speeds. Precise shift points would be determined in the fashion discussed in this link: http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html Generally speaking, shifting at red-line is a good "rule of thumb" for maximizing acceleration. That tends to be especially true for higher revving, small displacement DOHC engines (e.g. Yaris engine). I've been told that the Yaris's owner's manual recommends the following shift points for maximum acceleration: 1 to 2: 31 MPH 2 to 3: 59 MPH 3 to 4: 86 MPH Assuming that's true, I suspect that each of those shift points corresponds to engine red-line in the Yaris models equipped with tachs. |
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, 09 Z51 'Vette Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 100
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Peak power (106 HP @ the flywheel) occurs at 6,000 RPM - just like Toyota says it does. Peak power will be less when measured on a chassis dyno, though the RPM at which it occurs will be identical. That says little about determining shift points for optimal acceleration, though, as explained here: http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html Generally speaking, one wants to shift at engine red-line (ABOVE PEAK HP RPM) in order to maximize acceleration. That's particularly true with "peaky," small displacement, DOHC engines (e.g. Yaris 1.5 liter). |
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#8 | |
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TRIM HUNTER
Drives: 2007 BLAZIN BLUE YARIS 3 DR Join Date: May 2006
Location: ROCKLAND COUNTY NY
Posts: 2,088
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Quote:
__________________
http://rocklandtoyota.com/IFrame.aspx?iFrameID=2388 TOYOTA PARTS AT A DISCOUNT........ |
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#9 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, 09 Z51 'Vette Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 100
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If it's off, indicated speed will differ from actual speed. |
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#10 | |
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![]() It's nice to have peak HP so close to redline, as it makes your point that much easier to work with. And, for most people (as well as the common point of view), shifting at redline would be best. Last edited by justjesus; 10-22-2008 at 10:04 PM. |
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#11 |
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OMGWTFKITTYKATMEWMEWMEW
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 273
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Well, you clearly don't NEED a tach, as people have been driving manual transmission vehicles without tachs for decades. Hell, even the manual 1997 Ford Escort I drive for work doesn't have a tach and it's still going strong after more than a decade of use. You may WANT a tach so you can see your revs, but it's definitely not required to effectively drive a manual transmission car.
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Corolla Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 325
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#13 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 09 Yaris hatch, 09 Z51 'Vette Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 100
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Right? But I think the base Yaris's equipment level is FINE for its price level. Get one of the higher trim levels if you want a tach. Or buy a tach and install it. |
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#14 | |
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OMGWTFKITTYKATMEWMEWMEW
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 273
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#15 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Corolla Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 325
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#16 | |
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OMGWTFKITTYKATMEWMEWMEW
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 273
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Not including the tach on the lower models entices buyers to upgrade to the S model. I already wanted the S model, but once I heard the S model of the liftback was the only one that had the tach, I was sold. This is not a bait and switch, certain models only offer certain options. I'm sure there are plenty of people that wanted S-style seats in their base Yarises, but that's not an option. It's only available in the S model. You know what they offered, they don't hold a gun to your head telling you you need to buy the S. They tell you what you can get, then leave the decision up to you.
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#17 | ||
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Banned
Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: hay
Posts: 2,183
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Toyota didn't include a tach, to provide a super cheap ass Yaris. Want a tach? Get a S model. Still don't like it? Get a Fit. Earlier you had stated that you NEED a tach for a manual transmission, but now you're saying, Quote:
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#18 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Corolla Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 325
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