Seeking wheel advice from someone who KNOWS

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

I've seen an OEM aluminum wheel fall apart in NJ.

There are perhaps 5,000 of them for every one aftermarket wheel.

Try running a 10 pound aftermarket "racing wheel" in the NJ streets and see how long it lasts.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

There are perhaps 5,000 of them for every one aftermarket wheel.

Try running a 10 pound aftermarket "racing wheel" in the NJ streets and see how long it lasts.

I'm sure people do, in fact I know people running 18" variants of my wheel (not 10 lbs since it's a 18" wheel) but they aren't destroyed as you seem to be implying.

also, if a wheel is damaged by the state owned roads you can get the state to buy you a new wheel.

Seen it done numerous times when it is properly documented.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Russelt3hPirate

I'm sure people do, in fact I know people running 18" variants of my wheel (not 10 lbs since it's a 18" wheel) but they aren't destroyed as you seem to be implying.

also, if a wheel is damaged by the state owned roads you can get the state to buy you a new wheel.

Seen it done numerous times when it is properly documented.

A wheel's strength is dictated primarily by it's wall thicknesses and it's material. (Spoke placement and the number of spokes is also a factor.)

A cast 15" wheel that weighs 10 pounds cannot, by definition, be a strong wheel in terms of impact loading (e.g. hitting a pothole).

Conversely, a forged (e.g. 6016-T6) 15" wheel that weighs 14 pounds will likely be VERY strong.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

A wheel's strength is dictated primarily by it's wall thicknesses and it's material.

A cast 15" wheel that weighs 10 pounds cannot, by definition, be a strong wheel in terms of impact loading (e.g. hitting a pothole).

so you'd rather drive around on wheels that look like they should be on a 1977 ford falcon simply because they're FORGED???

why are you buying wheels in the first place?

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Tamago

so you'd rather drive around on wheels that look like they should be on a 1977 ford falcon simply because they're FORGED???

why are you buying wheels in the first place?

My main purpose for buying wheels concerns width; the OEMs are just 5.5" wide.

A 7" wide wheels would yield big improvements.

Aluminum is the only choice in that width and the roads here are in rough shape. That brings the choices down to a ~ 19 pound plus cast aluminum wheel or a ~ 14 pound forged aluminum wheel.

(As a mechanical engineer, I have already ruled out the possibility of running a featherweight RACING wheel, since I know it would bend do to impact loading on these roads shortly after it was fitted to the car.)

I'd give those Enkeis some serious consideration if I were looking to track the car. But I'm not.

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

My main purpose for buying wheels concerns width; the OEMs are just 5.5" wide.

A 7" wide wheels would yield big improvements.

Aluminum is the only choice in that width and the roads here are in rough shape. That brings the choices down to a ~ 19 pound plus cast aluminum wheel or a ~ 14 pound forged aluminum wheel.

(As a mechanical engineer, I have already ruled out the possibility of running a featherweight RACING wheel, since I know it would bend do to impact loading on these roads shortly after it was fitted to the car.)

I'd give those Enkeis some serious consideration if I were looking to track the car. But I'm not.

ohh you're a mechanical engineer.. it call comes together....

and how exactly is going to a wider wheel gonna "yield big improvements" ? your gas mileage will drop, running a wider tire will cause your car to tramline, and you'll have more issues in the snow as well as in water (hydroplaning)

so mr engineer.. justify those reasons to go to a wider wheel and i'm up to speed.

[09TRD]

Originally Posted by Tamago

ohh you're a mechanical engineer.. it call comes together....

and how exactly is going to a wider wheel gonna "yield big improvements" ? your gas mileage will drop, running a wider tire will cause your car to tramline, and you'll have more issues in the snow as well as in water (hydroplaning)

so mr engineer.. justify those reasons to go to a wider wheel and i'm up to speed.

The relationship between wheel width and general improvements in handling is well documented.

A 205 mm wide tire mounted on a 7" wide rim will neither tramline nor aquaplane.

[Russelt3hPirate]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

My main purpose for buying wheels concerns width; the OEMs are just 5.5" wide.

A 7" wide wheels would yield big improvements.

Aluminum is the only choice in that width and the roads here are in rough shape. That brings the choices down to a ~ 19 pound plus cast aluminum wheel or a ~ 14 pound forged aluminum wheel.

(As a mechanical engineer, I have already ruled out the possibility of running a featherweight RACING wheel, since I know it would bend do to impact loading on these roads shortly after it was fitted to the car.)

I'd give those Enkeis some serious consideration if I were looking to track the car. But I'm not.

would steel ever be an option for a standard summer wheel? :lol:

of course you're going to aluminum, I know you wont go Carbon or Mag so that leaves Aluminum.

where did you derive your 14lb forged wheel #? so 13lbs is too light and 15lbs is too heavy?

or are you going off the basis of 2/3rds as light and my cast aluminum wheel would need to be as heavy as the stockers?

the reason I ask, is Tamagos Team Dynamics are some of the strongest wheels on the market. Even comparing them to a "forged" wheel. There are plenty of quality wheels in both Forged and Cast that can help save weight and be as strong if not stronger then the stock wheels, you just need to know where to look. You also need to do more research then just pulling quotes from the manufacture website.

What would you assume to be stronger? a wheel used in Rally competition world wide, or a wheel that says it's good for the street?

I gave the enkei's some serious consideration but opted to go with some 15x7 +35mm Volk Racing RE30s, could've saved a few tenths if i went to a higher offset and reduced the pad height.

there is a place for every construction of wheel, they both have their strengths and weaknesses, but you seem to be grapping on to the one "It's forged" there for it's stronger b/c I'm an engineer.

are all forging techniques equal?

just b/c it says forged doesn't mean it's bullet proof, especially if you're only paying $150 a pop.

Forging a wheel properly isn't cheap.

either way, you're sold on the wheels anyway.

look 9.25 lbs each, strong spoke design.



so are these weak too simply based on their weight? :lol:

Regamasters must be weak and break instantly....

[Tamago]

Originally Posted by 09TRD

Conversely, a forged (e.g. 6016-T6) 15" wheel that weighs 14 pounds will likely be VERY strong.

or just improperly designed..

you should have a set of wheels made out of these:



you'll never bend them and they'll be plenty heavy enough for you

oh and cute typo on 6061-t6...