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#1 |
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Have you adjusted the idle screw? If you've turned the screw out too far you could get this code...try turning the screw in one or two turns (with the car off). This should fix the problem.
If you haven't adjusted the idle set screw, turn it counter-clockwise 1.5 turns (with the engine off), and see what happens. Last edited by jkuchta; 05-21-2009 at 05:11 AM. |
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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#3 | |
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When you leave the screw is the "corolla" position, the yaris ECU adjusts the idle fuel to get a stable idle. This takes time, as the ECU needs to make some pretty big changes. When you adjust the idle set screw to the correct position, the ECU doesn't have to work nearly as hard to get a normal idle, so the ECU doesn't freak out. The idle rpm fluctuations are a result of the ECU hunting for the right fueling to maintain a steady 600-700 rpm idle in the face of way too much air going through an unadjusted corolla TB. The P0505 code is the ECU saying..."WTF!!...Why can't I idle at the fuel trims I'm programmed with...something must be wrong!!" |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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#5 | |
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Super Moderator
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I had no idea which direction to turn to or anything like that... All I did was turn clockwise until I found the best setting after the second try. I guess I got lucky, because the damn screw got stripped at a very decent setting, so I didn't need to do any tweaking afterwards. ![]() I also let the gasket maker do its thing for at least 4 hours IIRC, with the battery disconnected the whole time. I also did the coolant bypass, but didn't need to burp it afterwards. No big oscillations, no CELs, and a pretty decent 2.5K idle... could've been a bit better, but I'm not complaining.
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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I am gonna watch it over the week or so. My cold idle is 1.5k. and i didnt touch the screw. If it comes back the i will look into it but for right now its running great. I had to install the orignal TB back on to get the drill to drill out the rivets and forgot to reset the ecu when i replaced it with the 1zz. Then i drove it a bit not too hard. Then turned it off for 5 min or so. when i started it up again oscillation gone. Drove it again. Turned it off. Started up cel gone
Think my ECU went to college
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 966
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#8 |
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#9 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 792
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I got the epoxy off, but stripped the head of the screw trying to turn it. No matter which allen I tried, none seemed to fit correctly and I ended up rounding the edges of the hex off. Ideas for removal/replacement?
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