tooter's manifold adventure...

[tooter]

Thanks, CT...

Combining the tooter manifold with the 1ZZ throttle body really did the trick!

Now there's consistent gains from 3,500 rpm all the way up to redline... with absolutely no loss in driveability or gas mileage.

I'll be posting the YouTube dyno run video as soon as it's done uploading. This is what got dynoed today:

1ZZ FE 55mm throttle body throttle body
Simota SRI intake + 6 inch BLOX velocity stack + BLOX dry element air filter
tooter intake manifold
Weapon R 4-2-1 exhaust header
Micro Image Magnaflow center exit exhaust
stock ECU no tuning
87 octane gas

[JustDidIt]

Looks good!! Nice to see those Dyno numbers. How does the car feel with the extra bump?

[tooter]

In normal driving it doesn't bog down like stock when you let out the clutch. and you can feel it come on stronger at around 3,000 rpm on up. The larger bore of the throttle body now better matches the increased flow abilities of the tooter. It feels lots more gutsy.

Now some of this effect is simply the fact that when you push on the gas pedal, the larger throttle body's butterfly is letting in more air for the same throttle position.
But the biggest difference is when the throttle is to the floor...

[JustDidIt]

Originally Posted by tooter

In normal driving it doesn't bog down like stock when you let out the clutch. and you can feel it come on stronger at around 3,000 rpm on up. The larger bore of the throttle body now better matches the increased flow abilities of the tooter. It feels lots more gutsy.

Now some of this effect is simply the fact that when you push on the gas pedal, the larger throttle body's butterfly is letting in more air for the same throttle position.
But the biggest difference is when the throttle is to the floor...

Wonder how it would handle a good AEM FIC tune. :)

[tooter]

Here's the video of today's dyno run...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDjz-3U7p5w

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by tooter

Here's the video of today's dyno run...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDjz-3U7p5w

^ Vtec really kicked in at the end yo!

[tooter]

Originally Posted by JustDidIt

Wonder how it would handle a good AEM FIC tune. :)

Harry, at HK Motorsports dyno shop suggested tuning would increase the power but I won't be doing that. It already does good enough with the stock tune and regular pump gas... and I still want it to be able to pass the smog test. So I'll leave that for someone else to experiment.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Nice dyno, especially for bolt on mods. Mad props to ya for doing this project. Makes the engine bay look much better too ;)

[etherdude]

tooter,

So glad you got positive dyno numbers. I think the engine looks MUCh better without the plastic cover. I like to see the mechanical bits and pieces. Also, the whole thing looks much more "gnarly" with the DOHC valve cover showing instead of some stylized plastic.

Doug

[tooter]

Originally Posted by etherdude

tooter,

So glad you got positive dyno numbers. I think the engine looks MUCh better without the plastic cover. I like to see the mechanical bits and pieces. Also, the whole thing looks much more "gnarly" with the DOHC valve cover showing instead of some stylized plastic.

Doug

Hey Doug,

Thanks, I'm really happy it makes more power... and most importantly with no loss of driveability or mileage. As much as I've been messing around with the Yaris, it's still our daily driver.

Yeah, I'm kind of liking the all aluminium look, too... especially as everything has the same even pearly matte finish.

Greg

[4/20 NEVER FORGET]

Now THAT is what I call some great HP/TQ gains. Not only is your peak HP better, but your TQ numbers after 4k rpms look great. I bet the car doesn't feel like it's running out of breath so much in the top end like these engines do right before redline.

Congrats on getting those numbers. You've worked hard for it! I'm glad it all worked out in the end, 110 whp isn't bad at all for a car that was rated 108 hp at the crank, with only bolt-ons!

Now I really can't wait to get a manifold and stick on this 1ZZ throttle body I have.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET

Now THAT is what I call some great HP/TQ gains. Not only is your peak HP better, but your TQ numbers after 4k rpms look great. I bet the car doesn't feel like it's running out of breath so much in the top end like these engines do right before redline.

You're right... the engine pulls strong right up to the top now!

Congrats on getting those numbers. You've worked hard for it! I'm glad it all worked out in the end, 110 whp isn't bad at all for a car that was rated 108 hp at the crank, with only bolt-ons!

Now I really can't wait to get a manifold and stick on this 1ZZ throttle body I have.

Just be sure to break off the epoxy and turn out that little idle screw about one turn before you even install your 1ZZ. It should work just fine as long as the butterfly can close enough for a nice slow smooth stable idle.

I'm so pleased how this has all worked out. The combination of the larger manifold and larger throttle body added up to doing more than each component could do alone.

...and I'm still not done yet. I have some other experiments I'm going to be trying out in the near future.

[4/20 NEVER FORGET]

Originally Posted by tooter

...and I'm still not done yet. I have some other experiments I'm going to be trying out in the near future.

Long-tube header? Either way, I look forward to more updates.

[tooter]

Namer convinced me not to mess with my header. Anyways, I like the Weapon R design and so will be leaving it as it is. I do have some more experimental intake manifold ideas that I want to see what happens if I do them. It's like following a tiny silver thread and you never know where it leads.

[4/20 NEVER FORGET]

I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.

I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET

I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.

You're right. I want to keep it smog testable. The way it is now, I can still run everything the way it is and simply stick on the stock airbox...



...and it'll smog test just fine.

I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.

Yes. A baseline is valuable information. A dyno is the only way to know exactly what's going on.

The graphs are honest and all done under the same conditions. Nothing was done to either enhance or diminish the results. I did three stock baseline runs, three with the tooter alone, and three with the tooter and the 1ZZ throttle body, and posted the best run from each set.

[malibuguy]

Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET

I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.

I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.

I work on A LOT of hondas. Most of the header outlets are 2". Even for a b18 teggy I worked on last tuesday. Dont let the small collector fool you. 2" is just about perfect for our motors. You want the exhaust gases to be at a high velocity when leaving the motor. The stronger the pulse...the stronger the vacuum behind that pulse. Thats what makes power. The larger the pipe the weaker the pulse strength would be and it will be traveling at a slower rate

[4/20 NEVER FORGET]

Originally Posted by malibuguy

I work on A LOT of hondas. Most of the header outlets are 2". Even for a b18 teggy I worked on last tuesday. Dont let the small collector fool you. 2" is just about perfect for our motors. You want the exhaust gases to be at a high velocity when leaving the motor. The stronger the pulse...the stronger the vacuum behind that pulse. Thats what makes power. The larger the pipe the weaker the pulse strength would be and it will be traveling at a slower rate

Good to know. What do you think of my plan of going to 2.25" piping/cats/resonator throughout on the exhaust? It's what my old D16 civics ran and it seemed like a good size.

Also tooter, do you still have the 1.75" exhaust piping after the factory resonator still in place? It might be worth paying the small amount to have that replaced with a 2" or 2.25" back to the axle-back.

Also, I recently replaced my crank pulley with a MI crank pulley and I didn't notice much if any change in engine output. I did notice however that the car is easier to drive, matching revs and such. For having nothing but manual transmission cars my entire life, I drive my Yaris somewhat jerky. I would say I drive the car a bit smoother now as I go through the gears. Eventually I plan on getting a lightened flywheel, I've had them in multiple cars in the past and it makes a huge difference in the car.