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Old 01-22-2013, 10:09 PM   #1
4/20 NEVER FORGET
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
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I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.

I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:45 AM   #2
tooter
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Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.
You're right. I want to keep it smog testable. The way it is now, I can still run everything the way it is and simply stick on the stock airbox...



...and it'll smog test just fine.

Quote:
I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.
Yes. A baseline is valuable information. A dyno is the only way to know exactly what's going on.

The graphs are honest and all done under the same conditions. Nothing was done to either enhance or diminish the results. I did three stock baseline runs, three with the tooter alone, and three with the tooter and the 1ZZ throttle body, and posted the best run from each set.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:47 PM   #3
malibuguy
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Drives: '10 PW Yaris Sedan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
I was also going to guess exhaust... but with you living in Los Angeles, I imagine you cannot even think about messing with the catalytic converters without fear of the man breaking down your door.

I'm about to move to a full 2.25" header-back exhaust using a OBX exhaust system as a base along with a single 2.25" magnaflow cat, 2.25" magnaflow resonator and 2.25" magnaflow muffler. I've also been thinking about buying another DC header and having the collector modified to 2.25", being that it is 2" now. I know there is more HP in there if the exhaust system can get freed up a little more. 2" seems so small for a collector on these headers, all of the 1.6L Honda's I worked on were either 2.25" or 2.5".

Either way, I need to find a shop to get this thing dyno'd so I can get a baseline. Thanks for so diligently getting your car dyno'd, it's great to see actually numbers instead of 'seat of the pants' reviews on stuff.
I work on A LOT of hondas. Most of the header outlets are 2". Even for a b18 teggy I worked on last tuesday. Dont let the small collector fool you. 2" is just about perfect for our motors. You want the exhaust gases to be at a high velocity when leaving the motor. The stronger the pulse...the stronger the vacuum behind that pulse. Thats what makes power. The larger the pipe the weaker the pulse strength would be and it will be traveling at a slower rate
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:27 PM   #4
4/20 NEVER FORGET
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by malibuguy View Post
I work on A LOT of hondas. Most of the header outlets are 2". Even for a b18 teggy I worked on last tuesday. Dont let the small collector fool you. 2" is just about perfect for our motors. You want the exhaust gases to be at a high velocity when leaving the motor. The stronger the pulse...the stronger the vacuum behind that pulse. Thats what makes power. The larger the pipe the weaker the pulse strength would be and it will be traveling at a slower rate
Good to know. What do you think of my plan of going to 2.25" piping/cats/resonator throughout on the exhaust? It's what my old D16 civics ran and it seemed like a good size.

Also tooter, do you still have the 1.75" exhaust piping after the factory resonator still in place? It might be worth paying the small amount to have that replaced with a 2" or 2.25" back to the axle-back.

Also, I recently replaced my crank pulley with a MI crank pulley and I didn't notice much if any change in engine output. I did notice however that the car is easier to drive, matching revs and such. For having nothing but manual transmission cars my entire life, I drive my Yaris somewhat jerky. I would say I drive the car a bit smoother now as I go through the gears. Eventually I plan on getting a lightened flywheel, I've had them in multiple cars in the past and it makes a huge difference in the car.
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