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#937 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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#938 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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Awe the video ends just before the climax!
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#939 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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#940 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 100
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Quote:
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#941 | |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Quote:
![]() Making the tooter fit both throttle bodies without any extra parts was an afterthought so that I wouldn't have to stock 2 adaptors. In fact it actually fits three, the stock 51mm three bolt cable controlled throttle body. I still think that the results will be similar as these back to back runs (stock:red tooter:blue) done on the same day... ![]() the stock engine is only capable of taking in so much air/fuel. Last edited by tooter; 12-31-2012 at 01:47 PM. |
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#942 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,857
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Quote:
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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#943 | |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Here's how you can find out for sure... The three manifold bolts form a triangle with sides of 57mm, 71mm, and 75mm... and the four throttle body stud holes are 60mm square. |
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#944 | |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Quote:
![]() The center hole is 5mm larger than yours is. It's 51mm which was designed to exactly match the Corolla 1.8 manifold. That would mean a 2.5mm forward facing lip on the inner diameter of your manifold which should be flared out with a hand file or Dremel to create a smooth transition. With the adaptor bolted on, a sharp scribe could be run around the inside circumfrence to exactly mark the lip so that you'd know exactly what to remove. Aluminium is really soft and works easily. You'd also want to be sure that the throttle body butterfly tips in at the right attitude so as to clear the screen on the O ring gasket. Although with forced induction, I'm not really sure that screen would matter and could simply be clipped off if it was a problem.
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#945 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 Yaris HB MT Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 100
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Quote:
I'm sorry if I came off harsh at all in my last post, I've enjoyed this thread and your tinkering that has led you to where you are. It's a good looking manifold, and it was designed for a larger throttle body than that which you are using, and it's an easy swap to the larger 1ZZ. You have to at least try :) I think there are many others who are following the thread that are also very interested. I think with the change will come more tinkering, and more content too. I appreciate the informative posts. |
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#946 | |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Quote:
![]() No offense taken. I just got this 1ZZ 0D030 throttle body off ebay today... ...and will be running it soon. I read through the whole 1ZZ thread, and it looks like a real pain in the ass to get working half way decently with all the floating idles, wildly racing rpms, stripped screws, and repeated check engine lights. Hopefully, I can avoid some of the pitfalls knowing the experiences others have gone through. I at least have some advantages over trying to make it work with the plastic stock manifold. The Corolla manifold was originally engineered for a 1.8 throttle body, and the tooter adaptor I designed will fit it perfectly. I'll let you know exactly how all this shakes out.
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#947 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,857
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Quote:
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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#948 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Hey Garm,
![]() What's a servo, and how do you swap it? Is that what was being referred to as a "chip"? There were so many different proceedures with wildly varying and inconsistent results it was truly mind bending just trying to make it through that long thread. ...and, by the way, is there anyone here who is actually running a normally aspirated 1ZZ throttle body that works properly? I'd love to hear from you how you did it. |
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#949 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ULTIMATEDrives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,857
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^ yeah, it's that black plastic end piece that is attached with rivets. You drill them out, and swap them so your 1NZ one is on the 1ZZ throttle body. You'll need some small screws or bolts with nuts to install.
__________________
Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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#950 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Thanks, Garm.
![]() I thought that might be what it was, but wasn't totally sure. I've just been reading up more about the same 1ZZ to 1NZ throttle body swap on a Scion forum so as to be totally familiar with all the issues before I actually start on the project. |
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#951 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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1ZZ throttle body came in today...
![]() ![]() ...so it's off to the workshop to strip it and bead blast it to make it look like new.
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#952 |
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#1 Lemming
Drives: Light Blue '08 Yaris Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 760
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What part number on the TB?
Nevermind, just saw your post that it's a 030. That's good. Should be plug and play. The only issue I had with mine was some high idling at cold start, but calmed down quickly and didn't throw any CELs. If you got the 031, then you'd need to do a chip swap and adjust the idle screw. Just remember to reset your ECU!
__________________
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#953 | |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Quote:
![]() I had already drilled out the rivets for the chip swap, although it turned out fine as I was able to clean out the area where the gears are. I'm searching out some little nuts and bolts to put the chip back on, and other than that, it's all ready to go... ![]() I really like how the micro stainless steel beads don't abraid away the metal surfaces or alter their dimensions, but act like tiny ball peen hammers that pound the surfaces to clean and smooth them out. |
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#954 |
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play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,962
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Not wanting to leave anything to chance, I also chipped out the epoxy from the idle adjustment screw just in case I needed to tweak it...
![]() The chip is bolted back on now, so next is step is installation... ![]()
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