need help: foglight indicator - where are the wires? - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

CTScott · 04-10-2009, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberfrogg

what does that mean? If I just "tapped" them?

I mean if you spliced your wires onto the existing wires, as opposed to pulling the pin out of pin 3 and inserting the new wire into pin 3.

cyberfrogg · 04-10-2009, 01:23 PM

oooohhhhh! No, I didnt do that. I just inserted the wires with the existing ones. Blue into pin 3 and green to pin 4. Was I supposed to remove the existing wire in pin 3? what would that do?

CTScott · 04-10-2009, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberfrogg

oooohhhhh! No, I didnt do that. I just inserted the wires with the existing ones. Blue into pin 3 and green to pin 4. Was I supposed to remove the existing wire in pin 3? what would that do?

The pin 4 connection is the big issue I believe. Only the OEM wire should be connected there.

Try this:

1. Disconnect both of your wires from Pins 3 and 4.

2. Pop the pin out of pin 3 (or, if your harness just has bare ends, snip the wire going to pin 3, leaving an inch or so to connect to.

3. Connect one of your wires to one side of the snipped wire (harness side) and the other to the other side (connector side).

cyberfrogg · 04-10-2009, 02:32 PM

okay I'll do that when I get home. =] thanks!

I hope this works!

1NZYaris1 · 04-10-2009, 05:44 PM

The relay from what i have been told should also have a
inline resister as per photo of this relay

cyberfrogg · 04-25-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The pin 4 connection is the big issue I believe. Only the OEM wire should be connected there.

Try this:

1. Disconnect both of your wires from Pins 3 and 4.

2. Pop the pin out of pin 3 (or, if your harness just has bare ends, snip the wire going to pin 3, leaving an inch or so to connect to.

3. Connect one of your wires to one side of the snipped wire (harness side) and the other to the other side (connector side).

I tried doing this and it didn't work... My fog lights would not turn on. I snipped the original yellow wire in pin 3 and connected my green wire to it (so now the green wire is connected to pin 3 directly) and then I got my blue wire and connected it to the other piece of the yellow wire that was hanging.

this is what it looked like before:

And it looks something like this now:

(the black rectangle on the bottom just represents like the switch of the fogs...)

Did i do something wrong? Now that its wired like this my switch works just as its supposed to but my fog lights wont turn on at all anymore... =/

please help!

CTScott · 04-25-2009, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberfrogg

Did i do something wrong? Now that its wired like this my switch works just as its supposed to but my fog lights wont turn on at all anymore... =/

please help!

What do you mean by switch works just as it's supposed to? Do you mean that when you press the fog switch, the dash indicator comes on, but the lights don't?

cyberfrogg · 04-25-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

What do you mean by switch works just as it's supposed to? Do you mean that when you press the fog switch, the dash indicator comes on, but the lights don't?

The fog light symbol on the switch turns along with all my other interior lights, which is good. And when I press the switch, the little led indicator turns on as its supposed to. The only thing is the fog lights themselves dont turn on and therefore the symbol on the dash doesnt turn on. So the lights on the switch do what theyre supposed to do. Before I wired it this way, the little led would be on all the time (except for when I had my fogs in use). So in a sense, it was backwards. And now it works, but my fogs dont turn on...

yarisugi · 04-10-2009, 10:57 PM

Thanks all. I installed the foglights and figured that I don't HAVE to have the foglight indicator on in the instrument panel since it indicates "on" on the button itself.

Meteorite_Marty · 04-10-2009, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yarisugi

Thanks all. I installed the foglights and figured that I don't HAVE to have the foglight indicator on in the instrument panel since it indicates "on" on the button itself.

If you had used the fog light stalk, then the bonus to that is the dash indicator comes on when you turn on the fogs. Totally like factory.

This is the way I did mine.

CTScott · 04-25-2009, 10:51 PM

How many wires connect to your switch?

cyberfrogg · 04-26-2009, 12:40 PM

Four. This is an old pic I had. Its the only one that kinda shows em.

I have two Greens, one blue, and a ground... the black one.

One green I have wired underneath the gear shift so that the fog light symbol gets light from it and turns on when I turn on my lights inside.

The other green and the blue are what are messing me up.

CTScott · 04-26-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberfrogg

Four. This is an old pic I had. Its the only one that kinda shows em.

I have two Greens, one blue, and a ground... the black one.

One green I have wired underneath the gear shift so that the fog light symbol gets light from it and turns on when I turn on my lights inside.

The other green and the blue are what are messing me up.

Looking at various DIY's on aftermarket fog installs, it looks like there a couple of different harnesses (with different wire colors, etc.), some of which require modification in order to connect them to the oem fog wiring.

This one seems to best match your description, and it requires modification to connect to the oem wiring:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9473

cyberfrogg · 04-27-2009, 12:19 AM

lol thats the DIY i used to wire em up and thats how I got the problem in the first place. I have the exact same fog kit, except for the sedan. And I wired it how the DIY said but then the switch seems to work in reverse... ahhh..

CTScott · 04-27-2009, 10:10 AM

The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:

1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.

cyberfrogg · 04-27-2009, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTScott

The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches.

I would modify the switch as follows:

1. Cut the marked trace.
2. Remove the diode.
3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated.
4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.

I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..

CTScott · 04-27-2009, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberfrogg

I'm sorry I am so confused.. I don't know anything about wiring/electricity and stuff... Can you clear things up..?

thanks..

In a nutshell, the switch that came with the kit was designed to be used with the kit, not to be used with the OEM wiring. In order for it to work correctly with the OEM wiring, it needs to be modified. The two easiest fixes without modifying the switch would be to get either an OEM fog light stalk, or the OEM fog light switch.

cyberfrogg · 04-27-2009, 09:32 PM

oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are:

How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows?

where/what is the diode?

what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them?

and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."?

sorry again and thanks...

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04-10-2009, 01:23 PM	#2
cyberfrogg View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: TX Posts: 74	oooohhhhh! No, I didnt do that. I just inserted the wires with the existing ones. Blue into pin 3 and green to pin 4. Was I supposed to remove the existing wire in pin 3? what would that do?

04-10-2009, 02:32 PM	#4
cyberfrogg View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: TX Posts: 74	okay I'll do that when I get home. =] thanks! I hope this works!

04-10-2009, 10:57 PM	#9
yarisugi やりすぎだ～ View User's Garage Drives: Me: Nuts: Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: ハワイ Posts: 2,041	Thanks all. I installed the foglights and figured that I don't HAVE to have the foglight indicator on in the instrument panel since it indicates "on" on the button itself.

04-25-2009, 10:51 PM	#11
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	How many wires connect to your switch?

04-26-2009, 12:40 PM	#12
cyberfrogg View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: TX Posts: 74	Four. This is an old pic I had. Its the only one that kinda shows em. I have two Greens, one blue, and a ground... the black one. One green I have wired underneath the gear shift so that the fog light symbol gets light from it and turns on when I turn on my lights inside. The other green and the blue are what are messing me up.

04-27-2009, 12:19 AM	#14
cyberfrogg View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: TX Posts: 74	lol thats the DIY i used to wire em up and thats how I got the problem in the first place. I have the exact same fog kit, except for the sedan. And I wired it how the DIY said but then the switch seems to work in reverse... ahhh..

04-27-2009, 10:10 AM	#15
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	The more I look at this issue, I think that the switch is the issue. The OEM stalk switch is just a switch, connecting pins 3 and 4 on D4. The OEM console switch has the switch isolated from the leds. In the picture of the guts of your switch on that DIY, the switch LED is part of the switch circuit. I think that is what is causing the headaches. I would modify the switch as follows: 1. Cut the marked trace. 2. Remove the diode. 3. Solder the two jumper wires as indicated. 4. If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them. The switch is a dual pole switch, which allows it to separately switch the two circuits.

04-27-2009, 09:32 PM	#18
cyberfrogg View User's Garage Drives: Yaris Sedan S Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: TX Posts: 74	oooooohhh!!! Sorry! I was at school and didnt see there was a picture there... Im understanding it more. my only questions are: How do I open the switch to see what the picture shows? where/what is the diode? what are the two jumper cables and where do I solder them? and what do u mean by "If the pads for the switch are bridged together (where the word "switch" is between two sets of 3 pads), separate them."? sorry again and thanks...